lary

Great stuff on this page. I couldn't stand leaving this 6 inch leg vise this way. So...

Did what I could to keep from cutting into the body of it.

Anyway, so far so good.

My grandmother put diced up walnuts in the jello.

I like so many other folks, probably on this forum have witnessed many friends and acquaintances go through this. It's painful now, but after everything gets settled, in the end, the one consistent thing I have noticed is there are no regrets later.  Your in my thoughts and prayers.

Funny thing about this thread, just when you think you've seen it all. Nice job Mothman.

Thanks Thomas, the very bottom of the leg is 1 inch diameter.

 Overall I'm happy with it. I haven't seen many come available in my area in any size, and a 6 inch is really rare.

I haven't decided if I'll fix the modifications done by a previous owner or use it as is. Weigh's about 95lbs.

It sure dwarfs the 4 inch leg vise, amazing what a difference 2 inches can make.

Looks like a good prototype for a letter opener. 

 Cooper tubing that is used for plumbing water cut flattened out and formed to fit the vise. I didn't think it would work being that its paper thin until I tried it.

  Me?

Thanks Arkie, Made from 4 peaces of 3/8 round. Feels about wright to me. Like twisting square stock, it took quite a bit of fiddling to get the twist even.

  JHCC   That raising hammer looks like it would be fun to make. Wondering how it compares to a dishing hammer made from from railroad bolt.

I took the technique for forging a basket twist s hook a different direction part way through and made a door pull....

I've probably got 30 or 40 brand new rail road spikes to play around with. And 2 or 3 used ones that are pitted, rusty and really thin just below the head (pretty common) not sure what to do with those. I know they make mediocre knives but I like the way that pitted texture handle goes with the newish looking blade.   

Wow,  That is impressive!

Can you  detach two of the cooper tubes and drill screw holes through the angle iron? I like the look of it.

Jobtiel1 I really enjoy looking at the combination of blacksmithing and wood working skills. Thanks for posting.

Chad J. that's funny you posted that basket twist s hook, I've been working on the same thing with similar welding technique. I'm to cheap to run my little gas forge up to 20psi to find out if it will forge weld. Not to mention the destruction of the lining after the use of borax. One of these days I'll have to start forging with coal. Lots of great stuff on this thread.

Rojo Thanks

JHCC  Looking at that saddle in the vise, I'm thinking inside curve on a 90 or 45 degree piece of black pipe?

9 hours ago, JHCC said:

I like that look, lary. Very cool. 

I’ve never had much luck with the heated drift method; my last few hammers got tempered with the oxypropane torch. 

Thanks, I was trying to get a Viking Mastermyr cross pein hammer but didn't quite get it. I'll try the torch tempering method next time. Just want to be clear I haven't given away traded or sold any of these hammers.  Want to play it safe for now and use them myself, figure out which one(s) work best.

Army that's a nice set up. Moving outside under the awning as the summer temps start climbing sounds like good plan.

So after the hammer is quenched and cold I spend a little time cleaning it with a motorized brush. The forge has at this point probably been off for at least 5 minutes, the walls are still orange when I stick the hammer head in. Of course the forge stays off.   I didn't mention it earlier but the other way I've done it is to heat up the hammer drift and stick the hammer blank on the drift. This method might be better I can see the steel turn a straw color. As far as annealing I'll get the work piece a light orange color and bury in a bucket of ashes.

I'm far from being an expert but so far I've made several 2 lbs and a up hammer heads from Hyster forks. When I quench them in oil the face of the hammer gets marred up pretty easy so its still soft, when I quench them in water, missed blows leave tiny depressions in the anvil and the face of the hammer doesn't get all beat up. So as it's been suggested in other threads, it's probably 1045. The tempering hasn't been to scientific, after shutting the forged down for the day (propane forge). I stick the finished hammer heads in the sill hot forge for the night.

Have one from Hobo freight, probably same model with a different decal. I compared the temp read out with a name brand (think it was a Fluke) where I work. Surprised me when the temps read within a degree of each other, problem is they don't read high enough for a forge temperature.

Nodept - No problem, cleaned the lens on my phone but it still looks blurry to me.

Frazer -  The tongs you sent me have been a big help, the importance of plenty of material at the jaw and boss area become more clear when I look at yours and then look at some that I've made. I fiddled with those spike tongs for hours to get them to that stage. Had been been using them for a while when I ordered Kens custom rapid (rr spike) tongs, just to have something to compare, but I can't see that Kens is any better.

Irondragon - That made me think of a video Gary Huston made, he forges a cheese cutter out of stainless.

Just to clarify, I tried bumping it several times and it doesn't fall off. I know it doesn't look to stable, but the long handle resting against the post helps to support it. My picture quality hasn't been that great lately. Must be time for a new phone. 

Army, Nodebt Thanks.  I think I inadvertently figured out how to make a slingshot at the same time.

Made this to a hang an 8 lbs hammer that hardly ever use...

If you decide to get a new blade check the local True Value/Ace hardware. If they have a tractor/farming parts dept. might be able to get the bearing(s). Looks like the price on the blades there is about the same as Amazon.