lary
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Posts posted by lary
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If you decide to get a new blade check the local True Value/Ace hardware. If they have a tractor/farming parts dept. might be able to get the bearing(s). Looks like the price on the blades there is about the same as Amazon.
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Got one of those where I work. Probably purchased back in the 90's has Dayton written on it but the specs tag has made in Taiwan. 64 1/2 inch blade, Stared at that red one at Harbor Freight and it looks nearly identical. I replaced at least one of those guide rollers and If you squint hard enough with a magnifying glass you might be able to get a part number, and with that info maybe somebody at Napa can help you. It might be due for a new blade. Ounce put back together you'll probably want to cut a piece of pipe or box tubing and check squareness. When cutting, slowly lower the blade on the work piece. And DO NOT push down on the blade when it's cutting you will pop the blade off the drive wheel, tear teeth off of it or break it in half. Sorry for repeating some of the good advise already given.
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That's great! Congratulations.
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Another work of art. Thanks for posting.
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Nice! Those legs do look complicated. Getting them to match must have taken some time.
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And I did lay blocks of ice on the face before welding to protect the temper. Hardness and rebound are still good.
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If portability were important to me, a 70 lbs anvil would be the way to go. I have no experience with Cliff Carroll anvils, but I do have a 70 lbs aso and there is an improvement in my overall forging experience with the 132 anvil. I don't see myself upgrading anytime soon. If I knew for sure that I was going to be making a living off of blacksmithing some day then dropping $1400.00 on a Holland anvil may have been justified. As far as quality well.. it probably is a gamble. I knew I would have to modify the anvil before I placed the order, at least to make it more usable for me.
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For the price, the 132lbs 60kg Acciaio isn't a bad option. I received one 2 months ago and have been using it about 4 times a week. It has a fairly hard face and good rebound. Definitely better than a piece of cast iron. But as mentioned by Irondragon and Mr. Powers you might want to try an improvised anvil first. I'm glad I did. Being a wood worker your hammer control is probably better than most but only one way to find out.
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Nice job. It's going to save your elbow when drawing out.
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I'll give that a try.
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Thanks guys for the comments. I made a jig to help get the scrolls to be more consistent. But that leads to the tips getting kinked. So I'll modify the jig and and probably start the scroll by hand (first inch or two on the tip).
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Not 3/8 thick but with maybe 3/16 or 1/4 thick flat bar. I have welded one end to a truck rim then rolled it across the floor cold.
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Chad
Everything about it looks great.
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Glad he's sill at it...
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11 minutes ago, Daswulf said:
Lary you could get some magnets set right and give him a metal filings mohawk
I'm gonna do it! I'll post a pic in a couple of months.
10 minutes ago, TWISTEDWILLOW said:Shop helper?!?! He’s probably gonna take over an run me out lol,
When you talk about your son I keep thinking of Flintstones Bamm-Bamm. You might be wright. Soon, you'll get reduced in rank to striker.
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Daswulf, Good point I think my bade is a little smaller than Nodebt's.
Frosty, The skull was my first attempt with a plasma cutter. I stuck a round magnet on the blade to hang it.
A circle of metal filings will sometimes form on its forehead.
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the handy rail spike
in Blacksmithing, General Discussion
Posted
Made this to a hang an 8 lbs hammer that hardly ever use...