LeeJustice

I don't see a pressure gauge.  How do you know it was up to 20psi?

I would like to add in that to what and how your vise is mounted, whether it be a post or bench vise, is very relevant.  My 6 inch bench vise is bolted to a 1,000 Lb. welding table.  As such, it is not going anywhere when I am twisting or bending or banging on it.  On the other hand, my post vise is in a portable setup, mounted to a dolly.  The fact that I can readily move it around is great, but I have to put some ballast weight at the base.  Even then, I have to not get too physical with the use of it.  I hope this helps too.

You may also want to consider which alloy/grade of aluminum you select for this gate.

Next door neighbor while I was in college thought it was a great idea to have his band practice there.  Not a problem until it became too late for such things.  This was back before caller ID, mind you.  I would set my computer to call his phone when they were playing too late.  I could hear, "Hold on, stop, the phone is ringing."  Then, my modem would greet them with it's song. 

The points for the hardness readings don't start until thirty thousandths.  Is that the depth of decarb?  I don't know.  They end at .125, so it is through hardened, for what that is worth.

The wool is the outer form and the inner form is as suggested.

I have revisited that chart several times to try to get my head around it.  It seems to me that it is showing the depth of hardening.  That would have to be measured by grinding away to those depths after hardening the full thickness, not by grinding to size (Depth) before hardening.

I have not had my tanks refilled for some months.  Nevertheless I have noticed that Ace and Wally world are at 20 bucks for an exchange.  Not too bad.

Where or what is the forge resting upon?  When I was first running my Mr. Volcano and running it hot, I thought that I smelled paint burning.  But the Mr. Volcano forge is mad of stainless, and so it is not painted.  However, it was resting atop my table saw, the extension part was painted.  It was, in fact, burning that paint.  I put vermiculite boards atop the table saw, then hard firebrick.  No more burning paint from then on.

Just yesterday I was thinking that I would try for my next hooks to be flat, rather than rounded on both ends.  The bar, that is, not to be confused with the actual bend.  Also yesterday, the old umbrella that I hung bird feeders and suet holders collapsed.  I had to move everything over to a nearby cattle panel which is bowed up to make an arch.  One feeder was now missing its hook for hanging.  I had my keys in hand, about to go to the garage to get heavy wire to fashion a new hook when it dawned on me that I already had hooks!  I grabbed one of the first made and hung up the feeder.

13 hours ago, BoardMoreThanUsual said:

what do you all do or have done with all your beginner hooks...?

Do you mean how to make them or what to use them for after making?  I am guessing the making, so here is my suggestion.  Square up the middle section and make a twist.  Vary the twist's tightness and even make a progressive twist, from tight to loose.

A quick search and the thread title confirms that this burner is made by and offered online by Mr. Volcano.

Howdy folks.  I came across this story earlier.

Rare Bronze Age sword found in German burial site is still shiny | CNN

You are quite welcome.

There have been conversations here concerning heavy metals being present in boiled Linseed oil.  I was at first skeptical, so I googled it.  There is quite a good possibility that any BLO that you wish to use or already have will have those present as a drying agent.  I bought a can myself, but I did not find a listing on this particular can of what all the constituents of the product were.  I wouldn't use it for anything in my garden.  A good, weather resistant paint is what I would use.

So if you put one on a post, you just posted bail?

Hair dryers often have heat settings, low, hot and no heat.  You ought to have longer life with it running on no heat.  The heating elements don't turn on and it only runs the fan.

To Be Determined.

I see, there are big air gaps all around the mixing tube and holder.

Look closely at his picture #2 Mikey, I think that I see just what you are mentioning for your second suggestion.

Steering angle sensor?  What?  Two, three weeks ago I went to change the rear brakes on my 2007 Canyon.  OMG!  What a nightmare.  Last year, I changed the thermostat.  Geez, what would have been a half hour job on my Fairmont was like at least a three hour ordeal.  More and more I prefer my old cars.  And if we ever get EMP'd, I hope to still be rolling.  

Will.  Around me an average exchange might be 30 dollars.  I get refilled at Tractor Supply and my last top off was 10 bucks.  Prior to that, 15.  Another time, I think their gauge was malfunctioning, as it read only 7/10's of a gallon and would not take any more.  The guy just told me it was my lucky day, no charge.

Gewoon, I am personally hesitant to use Calcium Oxide inside my forge.  It does have a really high melting temperature, and, when heated to high temps, emits light.  Hence, the old saying, "being in the limelight".  Why the, would anyone not want to use it?  It sounds good.  A quick internet search quickly reveals:

Short-term Exposure: Calcium oxide causes irritation of the eyes, nose, throat, and skin. Severe burns may result from contact with this chemical. It may also cause bronchitis and pneumonia. Exposure to calcium oxide may cause irritation of the skin and ulceration and perforation of the nasal septum.

No.  It will not work like that.  The temperature is much too low.  If you are thinking about hardening ONLY the exterior surface, something like pack carburizing is one way.  However, it also requires the much higher temperature.  There are compounds available like Cherry red which allow you to case harden also.  This method also requires a high heat, like from a torch or forge.

Finished banging this out for Lori's Valentine's day gift.  Only two weeks late, which is good for my typical timeline.  Made from stainless steel, unknown type, half inch round stock to start.  Still some tweeking and cleaning to go.

For perspective of size, the forklift tine upon which it rests is 6 inches wide.