canada goose

hi will52100 ,how sure are you that the plate warped in use and not in welding as mine did? I like your idea of thickening the plate by welding another underneath. What was your procedure,in detail, for doing that if you don't mind spending the time to tell me.

I am about 1/2 way through a C.Spencer tire hammer build. Going ok with one problem. The mounting plate warped in the welding process . I am wondering about pouring grout under the plate . There are some epoxy gouts out there ( expensive) and cementitious grout (cheaper) .Or maybe a sheet of High quality plywood with plate well bolted down .If anyone has experience with this Id appreciate input.

So would the opinion on here be that never sieze is the best easily available punch lube?

T1 is quite a different steel from 4140 . With that amount of Cr is it surprising that it is hard and tough even untreated? Would 4140 perform the same ?

possom ear blue, thats a tough one for us .Would that be close to the well known iceberg blue?

I think there is some confusion around the word "tempering" To temper is to soften steel after it has been hardened by heating past the transition point(approx. non magnetic) and quenched. Tempering typically done from 400- 650 F with 400 or so being typical for hammers. I appreciate your point about 4140 not being a technically fussy steel . I would like to not screw this up as each die will have about 50$ Cdn. worth of steel . Thanks for all input.

If you were tempering in the kitchen oven it is unlikely you were at 400 C (750F) Perhaps you meant tempering at 400F or 200C ? I think I can see giving it a try . By the time my little one burner has it up to temp it will have more or less soaked at 1200 and if I can throttle it a bit or open the door to avoid going too high can get a soak at light red. Thanks all for input.

tire hammer dies : I am in process of building a tire hammer a la Clay spencer. I am wondering about the procedure for making the dies. The plans call for 4140 welded to mild steel plate. Heating to 1200 F ,soaking for 15 min rise to 1575 and soak for 10 min Then quenching in warm oil. Can I do this in my little nc propane just using heat colors to guestimate temp? or should I find a heat treating service which won't be less than an hours drive away,if they will do it.

How does the app measure size. Or does it require input from user?

Well it looks like 3/4 would be pushing things as the hammer weight is 50 lb. I know the clay Davis tire hammer runs just fine with 1hp .

Would anyone have an opinion whether a 3/4 horse motor would be adequate for a Ray Clontz tire hammer . I can get one free but I don't want spend time adapting it if it's too small .

Well I have no milling machine access but can use a friends lathe for squaring the ends of the pipe. F.furn why did you choose to use a hole saw rather than a drill bit? After pressing the bearing in did the pins fit properly or require reaming ?

so you used a drill bit to bore the sched 80 from .936 to ? and then 1 " reamer ? Does a 1" bearing press into a 1'' Hole ?

I like the jig you show. And the some of my uncertainties would apply to that pn 37 ,but the "dog bone " I refer to is the link weldment pn 211. It uses 1"x11/2"I sch80 pipe and an oilite bearing the same as pn37 .I presume the ends of the 11/2" pieces would be squared in the lathe before welding. But can the pipe ends be bored square to the sides after welding? The oilite bearings I find at MSC are .0753 inside .Is this 3 thou. a standard clearance for a 3/4 pin? The plans say to press bearing in and then ream to .750" . Shared insight appreciated.

Would anyone on here like to describe their procedure for making the dog bone arms for a Clay Spencer tire hammer ? I am commencing a ( slow) build and have limited machine work experience so I need some pretty basic help.

Yes ,a video or a sketch or some thing cause I really don't get what Frosty is describing.

In the video it looks like the shovels are given a quick cooling in water and the tempering is from residual heat . Maybe as bigfoot says cold bending is safer. If his method doesn't work Is there a shop nearby with a hydraulic press ? I wonder if a LOT of cold hammering on the blade would lead to work hardening and embrittling.

You pretty well got my meaning . Tap the piece in the vise with your hammer to get the feel of it,heat and allow to cool, and tap again you will feel if it is still about the same or has gone soft. If it goes soft then I would guess its better not to try heating and bending .

I suspect that the steel used for shovels is generally a type of air hardening steel . If it is you can heat it and and air cool without softening the steel. If you have some scraps from your modifications you could do some tests. Heat up, cool, and it will be quite apparent if the steel has softened.

That was a great demo. Always appreciate when someone links to a good utube.

I'd like a little more knowledge before I walk in as It is not clear to me that those guys who sit there pushing keys are that expert.

What is required for the proper set up for oxy propane ? Can it be used for cutting?

This discussion begs a whole new thread on the proper way to set up for oxy propane. Im going to start a new thread.

this has been my standby but I would love to see other examples and ideas.

I'd love to see how other people end their hand railings.