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Bearded Welder

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Everything posted by Bearded Welder

  1. Well I would like to take a moment to thank everyone for there advice and especially you Frosty, with your help with this press as well as burner and forge advice...but unfortunately my wife just quit her job (came with living on a farm with a shop) so we are moving back to the city and I will have to put my blacksmithing on hold and in storage for now until i have a space to work in. Again thank you very much! Cheers Phil
  2. So I picked it up, guy knocked off more money because ill have to customize it, he didnt have to but really nice of him. Banana is for scale. I took pictures in the kitchen before my wife came in so it would be bright instead of the dreary shop. I knew it would be small, in terms of the opening but I didnt think the cylinder would be as short as it is, he said its roughly an inch long, maybe a little more, ( he also thought the cylinder was 3 inches in diameter) so I think that means I will need multiple dies (that do the same thing) of varying thickne
  3. No worries Brianc! All thoughts and comments welcome. Ive looked up the pump that goes with this unit and it is a full hydraulic power pack normally, so thats what ill be looking at. My only concern is the forging end of things..I didnt realise how small the opening is, its basically a 4 inch by 4 inch square, then take into account 3/4 inch dies, the opening would be 2½" tall but i guess for knife making that should be big enough? Thoughts anyone? Ive also been trying to find the cylinder size online so that i can figure out how much GPM i need to run it at a decent speed but so far no l
  4. Going to pick it up later in the week! Thanks for all the help! And yeah ill probably just stick with the lever to be honest. Though I suddenly have an image in my head of a cave man pounding on steel with a lever Ill try an figure stuff out on my own with it but i may come back for some guidance! Cheers and thanks again for sharing your knowledge! Phil
  5. Hi Alan, Yeah I think both of you are right, he doesnt known the terms but he described it and its a single action, it can only apply force in one direction. And its the bottom die that moves up to do the squishing (hammer die) and then comes down by gravity. I don't know if it really matters where the hammer die is.. Frosty i can picture perfectly what you mean by manual action effectively making the stroke restart right away when you hit the pedal.. so its not going all the way up (or in this case down..) so manual is ideal in this situation. So he said he would part wi
  6. So.. Contacted the guy and made an offer, he accepted but asked what i was going to use it for and he said it wouldnt work for me..its only a 2 way cylinder and not a 4 way and it's really slow, it takes a good 15 to 30 seconds for it to go all the way down so its not quick enough to work the steel while its hot, i might get one or to presses in, unless that was one of the things you ment by pimping it out Frosty? Cheers Phil
  7. Ok good to know, ive found a few used pumps online for 250 or 300 bucks, but they dont list any info about the pump itself, ill have to contact them later in the day. So im assuming auto return is more expensive and the pedal would work fine and possibly be cheaper, is it as simple as just putting the pedal onto the line from the pump to the press and then thats it? I like what you said about having everything in the same stand, thats just smart, I am definitely going to do that! Ok, by that you mean an 8hp fuel powered engine/motor might not need an 8hp eletric motor? Ill do so
  8. Wow ok thanks guys, good to know! He said in the ad that he doesn't have the pump for it but im sure it would be fairly cheap to acquire? Im assuming probably somewhere between 200 and 400? If it means having a working forge press for under 800 bucks sign me up! How complex are the controls? Ive never used one but im just assuming it has two actions with one lever, one is to squish and the other to not squish? One might make there own controls for a cheaper cost? Again im ASSuming so i might be making an ass out of my self! Cheers Phil So after posting that i did some quic
  9. Hello all, forgive me if this isnt the right place to ask this by I myself had never intended on purchasing a press until i found a 40 ton hydraulic crimping press on facebook market place today for 350 bucks, now i know what its used for but no idea how it works, is it something that could be used as a forging press? Its a Thomas and betts press model # 21940 . I tried looking for info online but all that keeps coming up are diy presss, and i figured one of you fine folks might know alot more than me Any help is appreciated, or go tell me to jump off a cliff Thanks Phil
  10. Thanks Frosty! I found the Peterson's stuff on amazon for 55 at 1 lb so that is doable, Ill get it next month in my next statement and we'll see how it goes! Cheers Phil the welder
  11. Thanks! I figured it would be good practise trying to make the hex type shape.
  12. Frosty, to be honest it's a couple of things, I've only had the forge running for 6 hours total so I'm just beginning to learn hammer techniques and get that better, and I'm making tools I know I will need like center punches and chisels. Lastly I guess I don't plan on doing any welding with it for at least a year until I have a firm grasp on the basics, that being said I understand the principles of how to do the welding and the steps, so I guess It wouldn't hurt to try just for the hell of it.. Just so I know it will do it. I have to get my hands on some inexpensive flux and I have no clue w
  13. Hello all I just wanted to post an update from the burners 101 thread to here considering I'm finished the forge... Well... Sorta.. I had some large set backs and made stupid mistakes, it runs great (I think..) but the longevity of the inside castable wall is definitely in question.. So this is after 10 minutes of warm up at 15/20 psi just to get up to temp and then it will run at about 8 psi when the burners begin to slightly jug.. I get a bit of yellow dragons breath if I'm running at 8 psi but alot less if I run it at 12 and up which doesn't make sense to me Fros
  14. Ah yes I think that might be a problem, so I just need the same kind of controller but with the same rating or higher as the motor?
  15. Hello everyone! So I looked all through the forum for possible info on this and I couldn't find anything so I'm hoping someone in this thread could help, or point me in the right direction, (I didn't know if I should start a new thread or not.. If yes let me know) I'm looking to build my own 2x72 grinder like yours Ironwoolf, and I found a treadmill motor online for cheap and I'm wondering if this controller on Amazon is plug and play? I have no where with all when it comes to electricity.. The motor with all the pertinent information And the controller I'm looking at
  16. Ah, ok so he is a sort of legend in the blacksmithing community I take it? I'll probably buy it off amazon, it'll be 20some Canadian but I'm sure it's chalk full of good things too read, that or kindle, I think my wife has one of those things. Thank you for the information! Much appreciated! Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  17. Ohh... No, but that does sound oh so very interesting! What medium is that in? A book? Online source? Possible in the IFI?
  18. Hello all, I think this is the correct place to post my anvil in progress, if not let me know. Let me start by saying yes I'm a little nuts to spend this amount of time on this project, but I was on a budget and work didn't mind me using filler as we have alot of waste anyway.. It started out as a chunk of RR, and then I got this crazy idea to make a full sized anvil from it.. I still need to weld the horn, and heel and feet on, but after 6 months on all my breaks at work, after multiple passes of Tig welding it is finally almost done..total cost of material was 40 dollars, I bough
  19. Well thank you everyone for the terminology lesson, I'm going to re-read this page till that all sticks but definitely opened my eyes to what means what. Frosty I like metaphorical dangerous advice, it's alot of fun! But actual dangerous advice.. Not so much Cris, I'm probably just as green as you! The little orange fllickers you're seeing occasionally are probably flecks of debree from the nozzle, grinding dust, particularlets from an abrasive pad or cut off wheel, they go away after a while. An orange fan at the end of the burn being constant is more propane in the ratio t
  20. So oxidizing means too much oxygen, which I took to mean reducing? Do I have the terminology mixed up? On that track rich would be propane rich I assume.. I looked at the picture in better detail and now see a tiny bit of green between the primary envolope and the "tertiary" envolope, is that what tells you it's reducing which I'm now understanding means reduced oxygen and more propane...? Sorry to hyjack your post Cris J, I shouldn't have commented about your pictures until I have a better understanding of what I'm looking at, my apologies.. Phil the Bearded
  21. I don't know if this is acceptable for me to critique as A, I'm pretty new and B, this is Frosty's burner, but I would like to take a crack at it. Forgive me if it's not. Looking at your flame.. If I had to guess I would say it's a little oxidizing, I see purple on the fringes and white in the center, ideally you want no white and a deep blue hue..now I could be seeing it completely different in the picture compared to what your seeing in person because of what the camera does. Also it's hard for me to tell but it sort of looks like your ratios on your T are off..? I think Frosty's design
  22. Mikey A great analogy if I ever heard one! Thanks for the tip! Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  23. Too funny Frosty! I have actually followed all those differant designs in this thread and it's all very interesting to me. I think it made a differance in my burner but positive in some ways and negative in others.. maybe made the burner slightly unstable do to mixing speed possibly? I might try and lengthen the tube to see if that settles it back down, I know I have a good base model to go from, but I can't help trying to always make it better... I'm sure nobody here ever feels like that..ha! Thanks! I might just add visual design into my criteria from now on So then my crap
  24. Frosty, you can call me Phil, of course that goes for anybody.. I could try and get my hands on some plutonium! That would really give me an edge I think! and I thought added swirl would be a good thing? Trying to mimic the concept that I read on the thread of the vortex burner but in just a differant way I guess.. Maybe I'm over doing it a tad? G-son, you idea of a cheaper insulation had crossed my mind but I'm not sure what kind of insulation could go on the exterior of the kaowool between it and the shell.. I'm assuming R14 pink panther won't cut it? Is there a cheaper l
  25. So this is my little contraption to initiate a swirl at the top of the intake reducer.. I think it's working but I need to change something else to make it work? This is only a prototype/concept, if it's viable I would make a more thourgho setup with properly placed I let's and the such. Thoughts are much appreciated! Cheers! The Bearded Welder
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