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Bearded Welder

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Everything posted by Bearded Welder

  1. Thanks Frosty! I found the Peterson's stuff on amazon for 55 at 1 lb so that is doable, Ill get it next month in my next statement and we'll see how it goes! Cheers Phil the welder
  2. Thanks! I figured it would be good practise trying to make the hex type shape.
  3. Frosty, to be honest it's a couple of things, I've only had the forge running for 6 hours total so I'm just beginning to learn hammer techniques and get that better, and I'm making tools I know I will need like center punches and chisels. Lastly I guess I don't plan on doing any welding with it for at least a year until I have a firm grasp on the basics, that being said I understand the principles of how to do the welding and the steps, so I guess It wouldn't hurt to try just for the hell of it.. Just so I know it will do it. I have to get my hands on some inexpensive flux and I have no clue where to start...online? Farrier supply store that is up the road maybe? I don't see them needing flux though. About the vesuvius, I tried contacting the manafacturer but they were impossible to get them to call back and I couldn't find any guides online. I let it sit for an entire week before firing it.. But half way through the week a storm drove rain under my sliding shop door and soaked the one end of the Forge, so I peeled all that off of the end and reapplied the face,(it was so saturated with water that when it dried it was a really weird consistency that I didn't trust) then let it sit for another week, so technically the inner tube sat for 2 weeks For testing, should I mix it in say a paper cup, then once dried rip all the cup off and throw it in the forge? That sounded like alot of work, but I can just imagine how strong the finished product would be, definitely bullet proof! On the plus side at least I know my 1 inch burners were more than enough for my forge volume Just a pic of the chisel I made, my first tool I hammerd to 90% shape and then ground for finish, it started out as a little cut off of a RRR 1.5" square by 3.5" long Cheers Phil the Welder
  4. Hello all I just wanted to post an update from the burners 101 thread to here considering I'm finished the forge... Well... Sorta.. I had some large set backs and made stupid mistakes, it runs great (I think..) but the longevity of the inside castable wall is definitely in question.. So this is after 10 minutes of warm up at 15/20 psi just to get up to temp and then it will run at about 8 psi when the burners begin to slightly jug.. I get a bit of yellow dragons breath if I'm running at 8 psi but alot less if I run it at 12 and up which doesn't make sense to me Frosty, I took your advice and filled the void on the bottom floor, I used hard fire brick but I still used 3 inches of the kaowool in the main body and just 2 inches on the door (there will eventually be a door at the front with a small cut out) This is after 15 minutes of both burners running full out at 20 psi, I'm pretty sure it's welding heat but because of my lack of experience I'm not close to testing that theory by actually welding, once it's at this heat I can maintain it with one of my 1 inch burners at 8 psi no problem. This is the same but just a differant shot with the back door closed and a brick in the way to impede heat loss. Here is where I hit a bit of snag... So when applying my vesuvius refactory it would not spread easily at all and even with the blanket rigidize it started to take it apart on application think hard butter on cold toast (I was also using a gloved hand as I misplaced my trowel, I should have just bought one but I was impatient) so I had the GREAT idea of mixing the refactory with a bit of water to make it easier to spread, it worked but here is a picture where you can clearly see the refactory bubbling in many spots Then there is all the cracking inside which I assume is from uneven application (tried to stay at 1/4" thick but it was tricky) as well as the added mix of water, and now the whole thing looks like tectonic plates covered in bubbles... Here you can clearly see the 1/8" or more wide cracking. This picture is also taken 15 to 20 minutes after shut down so it retains its heat well (I think) So.. What do you all think? Should I just trowel over the cracks (found my trowel) with the non water mixed refactory and that should do or would someone recommend I pull each "tectonic plate" off inside until the first layer of kaowool is completly exposed and apply a whole new layer? Any advice and criticism is greatly appreciated! Ps.. I know it's still too big Cheers Phil the Welder
  5. Ah yes I think that might be a problem, so I just need the same kind of controller but with the same rating or higher as the motor?
  6. Hello everyone! So I looked all through the forum for possible info on this and I couldn't find anything so I'm hoping someone in this thread could help, or point me in the right direction, (I didn't know if I should start a new thread or not.. If yes let me know) I'm looking to build my own 2x72 grinder like yours Ironwoolf, and I found a treadmill motor online for cheap and I'm wondering if this controller on Amazon is plug and play? I have no where with all when it comes to electricity.. The motor with all the pertinent information And the controller I'm looking at Any guidance is greatly appreciated! Cheers! Phil
  7. Ah, ok so he is a sort of legend in the blacksmithing community I take it? I'll probably buy it off amazon, it'll be 20some Canadian but I'm sure it's chalk full of good things too read, that or kindle, I think my wife has one of those things. Thank you for the information! Much appreciated! Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  8. Ohh... No, but that does sound oh so very interesting! What medium is that in? A book? Online source? Possible in the IFI?
  9. Hello all, I think this is the correct place to post my anvil in progress, if not let me know. Let me start by saying yes I'm a little nuts to spend this amount of time on this project, but I was on a budget and work didn't mind me using filler as we have alot of waste anyway.. It started out as a chunk of RR, and then I got this crazy idea to make a full sized anvil from it.. I still need to weld the horn, and heel and feet on, but after 6 months on all my breaks at work, after multiple passes of Tig welding it is finally almost done..total cost of material was 40 dollars, I bought some rod of high carbon steel off a guy to weld into cavity to speed up the process, but every square inch inside is all welded together, no seam welding or the like at all so no gaps to cause vibration. I know I will lose most of my hardness when I do my pre and post heat for the welding so I'm trying to decide if I want to risk re hardening the face but I'm not sure of the best idea, I might just go the route of work hardening it with an air hammer instead of risking a heat and then quench... Let me know what you think, as well as any ideas! Cheers! Phil The Bearded
  10. Well thank you everyone for the terminology lesson, I'm going to re-read this page till that all sticks but definitely opened my eyes to what means what. Frosty I like metaphorical dangerous advice, it's alot of fun! But actual dangerous advice.. Not so much Cris, I'm probably just as green as you! The little orange fllickers you're seeing occasionally are probably flecks of debree from the nozzle, grinding dust, particularlets from an abrasive pad or cut off wheel, they go away after a while. An orange fan at the end of the burn being constant is more propane in the ratio than oxygen I'm pretty sure. Cheers, Phil the Bearded
  11. So oxidizing means too much oxygen, which I took to mean reducing? Do I have the terminology mixed up? On that track rich would be propane rich I assume.. I looked at the picture in better detail and now see a tiny bit of green between the primary envolope and the "tertiary" envolope, is that what tells you it's reducing which I'm now understanding means reduced oxygen and more propane...? Sorry to hyjack your post Cris J, I shouldn't have commented about your pictures until I have a better understanding of what I'm looking at, my apologies.. Phil the Bearded
  12. I don't know if this is acceptable for me to critique as A, I'm pretty new and B, this is Frosty's burner, but I would like to take a crack at it. Forgive me if it's not. Looking at your flame.. If I had to guess I would say it's a little oxidizing, I see purple on the fringes and white in the center, ideally you want no white and a deep blue hue..now I could be seeing it completely different in the picture compared to what your seeing in person because of what the camera does. Also it's hard for me to tell but it sort of looks like your ratios on your T are off..? I think Frosty's design for a 3/4inch burner has 1 inch air openings... Again it's hard to tell but it looks like your openings are bigger than 1 inch or your burner tube is smaller than 3/4inch..again I could be wrong. Since I'm new I would definitely wait for the greater knowledge of the others here, especially Frosty since it's his Design. Again forgive me if I shouldn't have added my 2 cents. Cheers! Phil The Bearded
  13. Mikey A great analogy if I ever heard one! Thanks for the tip! Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  14. Too funny Frosty! I have actually followed all those differant designs in this thread and it's all very interesting to me. I think it made a differance in my burner but positive in some ways and negative in others.. maybe made the burner slightly unstable do to mixing speed possibly? I might try and lengthen the tube to see if that settles it back down, I know I have a good base model to go from, but I can't help trying to always make it better... I'm sure nobody here ever feels like that..ha! Thanks! I might just add visual design into my criteria from now on So then my crappy hard fire brick might work a treat then, the wife will be glad to see me get some use out of them after she found out the money I spent on... Well... Basically fancy rocks because I found out later, unless you want to forge a pizza, they are basically useless.. True words Mikey.. Not everyone has that welding fan belt for instance.. Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  15. Frosty, you can call me Phil, of course that goes for anybody.. I could try and get my hands on some plutonium! That would really give me an edge I think! and I thought added swirl would be a good thing? Trying to mimic the concept that I read on the thread of the vortex burner but in just a differant way I guess.. Maybe I'm over doing it a tad? G-son, you idea of a cheaper insulation had crossed my mind but I'm not sure what kind of insulation could go on the exterior of the kaowool between it and the shell.. I'm assuming R14 pink panther won't cut it? Is there a cheaper less heat proof variety of ceramic blanket? I know of 8lb and 6lb and what I have is 8, but the price differance is negligable in my findings.. Thanks Phil The Bearded
  16. So this is my little contraption to initiate a swirl at the top of the intake reducer.. I think it's working but I need to change something else to make it work? This is only a prototype/concept, if it's viable I would make a more thourgho setup with properly placed I let's and the such. Thoughts are much appreciated! Cheers! The Bearded Welder
  17. Frosty, I didn't see your reply till after my last message, Haha... Um yeah, I figured build the shell which I thought would be harder and then build the simple burner to match... Boy oh boy was that off the mark! Ha! All that horse power and no where to roam? That sound about right? Well I guess that's good news! I'm headed in the right direction! OK so I have a couple ideas then, I have some crappy hard fire bricks from a while back, could I set those in the bottom and then do the usual kaowool, backbutter, rigidize, refractory on top of that? Or will the loose bricks want to move causing my refractory to crack? Just spit balling ideas... Damascus is a goal I admit....but both that and a great sword will be a few years ftom now I'm sure! Ha I'll keep the smaller size in mind.. As in the the front of my mind.. All the time... Everytime I look at it! Well thank you for the warm welcome, I was a little worried to be honest Cheers The Bearded Welder Pnut, Good to know I wasn't too far off then!
  18. Thomas, is that 11" after kaowool or before so more like 11" minus 4" for either side of kaowool? Just trying to get a picture in my head.. Like I said, I've made it too big, but for the amount of work I put into it I would like to see it finished, I thought I might want to forge some big stuff now and again, I'm thinking of putting in a thicker floor of kaowool to bring the shape to more of a D shape, then if I want to in the future I can take out the temporary "thick floor" change the burner position since they are adjustable and forge something larger, then but the thick floor back in, worst comes to worst I'll build a smaller tube shape for knife making and keep this behemoth for large projects as most people here say they build multiple forges for differant tasks.. That sounds interesting but to be honest I wouldn't know where to begin, I know I'm getting a fairly large propane tank installed outside the building per the landlords request (we share the shop) I think it's a 400lb tank and he said it made more sense if we are both using it, it will be cheaper than filling up small tanks my self. I'm still learning little things about the trade, I went for hot and effective and large and never thought of the why behind it all. I'm going to try and make this forge work on a smaller scale with added kaowool just to decrease volume, if worst comes to worst I can cut it in half and make it a true D forge and that will cut the volume in half if not more.. Despite what my Wife thinks I'm trying to do this on a buget haha! Total amount I've spent so far for 2 burners and the forge with kaowool and everything... About 400 bucks.. I thought that was decent? Or am I way off the mark? Keep in mind the stainless is free or I would have taken a freon tank or something like that.. Thanks for the input Cheers! The Bearded Welder
  19. I try Frosty, I like to soak in as much as possible. That's good to know, I'll stick with my current design then! OK well to be a 100% honest I built the forge before the burner so in essence I made the forge to large and then the burner to match, I hope that with the variable baffle wall I will be able to bring the size down to a more managable size for smaller stuff, I'm hoping around 600 cu/in, maybe I should have listened to my gut and made the secondary floor even higher up.. I can always put 4 inches of kaowool in it to bring the volume down even further? Not necessarily for the insulating factor as you have stated here and in other posts that past 2 inches there isn't much point.. My goal was to do exactly what everyone here advises against and build an all in one forge.. Shame on me for not listening... So once it's finished I will see how large of a hole I dug for my self.. Im looking at ways to be able to temperarily make the volume even smaller, by possibly sliding in insertes of refactory to fill the volume up.. But we'll see how those experiments go.. I did realise about the whole "can only work so much metal at one time" thing, so I'm hoping the baffle wall with a small hole will allow me to heat smaller sections of what I'm working on and then if I'm doing larger things or heat treating I can take the wall out/push it all the way to the back.. My main focus will be knives, but who knows, anchors sound fun! As well as ornitmental iron work! I will post the build after it is finished and hopefully show the recuperative aspect working well. (fingers and eyes crossed) I also have something else in the works to induce swirl into the top of my burner intakes via a cyclone forced air type of rig... Running off a little battery pack welding belt for clean air into the welding helmet, highly mobile. I will post pictures of that once I work out the kinks.. Cheers! The Bearded Welder
  20. Apologies if this is the wrong spot to post this being the burner thread but here are a few pictures of my forge shell I made from 14 gauge stainless. The secondary floor inside was because after building the outside shell and doors, I realized I went to big (still probably did but that's ok since it will have the internal baffle wall) so rather than cut everything up I just put a high floor in cutting down on the volume, not quite a D forge and not quite an oval forge so we'll see how it works. Used a break press to fold in the creeses to get the round shape, welding the 2 halves at the top and metal finished it for a seamless look welded together the set screws out threaded stainless rod, and the odd looking thing on the side is a clamp I made to hold the stainless steel line for the propane. The small nipple coming out of the top is for a heat exsaust which I'm hoping will preheat the line so the propane is about 400 degrees as jt goes into the burner. Incase it wasn't obvious ha! Ive tried to keep everything stainless from top to bottom as its the material I had the most access to for little to no charge. I have probably went a little over board but I love to tinker and make things so I figured why not put as much of myself into this project as possible. Sorry for the lighting, it's not great in the shop at the moment. Cheers! The Bearded Welder
  21. Thank you both Frosty and Mikey! I'm glad you gave it the seal of approval! I think I can see the three zones you are referring too, took a while to understand what I was looking for but I think I have it know. So Frosty, in terms of not inducing enough air for complete combustion, what would happen if I went down 1 size of mig tip? That would pull more air correct? Giving me a higher turn down range, but possibly not getting the max heat this current set would give me..? Am I understanding that correctly? My current forge is actually almost finished, unfortunately with this whole virus businesses I'm waiting a month for my fumed silica to arrive, but I have everything else, kaowool, a refractory which I hope will be sufficient and I custom made the shell from stainless sheat metal (I work at a stainless cabinet production facility) I'll upload a picture of it possibly tonight, I'm looking at 3" of kaowhool, and after doing the math it will leave me with an inside volume (after kaowool) of about 1300, so I will have 2 burners, but I'm also making everything about my build variable, there will be an internal baffle wall to slide back and forth depending on my size of work, I do admit I went a little large on the build but I wanted more kaowool than average to better insulate..im also trying a recoupritive(not sure on spelling) design which will pre heat the propane as it goes into the burner, though rest assured it will easily be by passable if it doesn't work and I will be doing some very specific testing for saftey purposes as to not reach the flash point of the propane. I am excited to post a picture of it all, should I post here or else where in the forum? Cheers The Bearded Welder
  22. Hello everyone! My name is Phil and this is my first time posting, but I've been lurking on this forum for a couple months now and have read the forges 101 and burners 101 a couple times and before that have done 400+ hours of research on forge and burner building from various other sites (until I found this one) First let me just say that I, as well as many others I'm sure are so very grateful for the people here whom their expertise is freely given and shared and enjoy doing it.I have learned alot (I hope) I wanted to try and do as much of this on my own so I could learn through trial and error (without blowing myself up!) doing my own independant research is important to me, but at the end of the day you can't replace years of knowledge and experience so I am now going to break my extreme shyness and post something on the internet (which I've never done) to seek opinions and thoughts on what I have created. My specs for this burner are 1" mixing tube, 9" long. It is technically stainless pipe that I got for free and I TIG welded mild threads on either end. The nozzle is 316 Stainless 1 1/2" step variant with a 1 1/4 spacer ring. The "intake head" is something I ordered from China a year ago because I thought at the time hey this will work, I cut off the top of it and used a Dyna file to bore out the funnel Shape to get the large end bigger (too about 2.5") and then TIGed it back on, its made out of some sort of aluminum cast. I used a 1/8" sch#80 4" 316 stainless nipple for my gas tube and threaded the entire thing for depth adjustment of the jet into the head, I tapped into the end a 1/4-28 mig contact tip, tried a. 035 tip first but then went to a. 044 taper tip after I didn't like the results of the. 035. The air choke is a wavy bent priece of aluminum that travels up and down on the 1/8" jet tube assembly for control of air flow. I'm hooked up to a 20lb propane tank for now and have a 1-20 psi regulator with a gauge. All tephlon tape you see is gas rated and I used some tephlon tape on the outside of the 1/8 nipple to make it "travel tighter" through the top of the intake head if that makes sense. this first picture is with 5 psi, half choke and exposure turned down on my phone This is same settings but with normal camera settings, what I actually see in this picture is almost completely blue and no green. This is the "intake head", I have to switch out my ball valve for a gas rated one, just using this one for testing. So this is my step nozzle, it's a bit differant as I took a small bit of 1inch coupler for thread, and TIG welded the 1 1/2 pipe to that so it's a threaded step nozzle, kind of a hybrid between Frosty's thread protector nozzle and Mikey's step nozzle. My one main concern is it is slightly too long but I'm waiting for when I have time to do small trim tests on it. Slightly richer (by way of the air choke) but with a flash on my camera This is rich, it isn't as green as the picture but definitely had some green in it, also at 10 psi. I don't know what this is... I have the air choke opened all the way so I assume it's reducing but I also have it at 2 psi, it isn't chugging though it does at 1.5, so yeah.. What does anybody make of that? MIG tip comes to about the top of my finger nail 15 psi, less exposure Inside of the nozzle which from the end of the threads to the beveled tip is 2" 7/8ths, which I think is too long since one of the recommendations for the Mikey step nozzle is 1/8" to 1/4" larger than mixing tube diameter for over hang, but I thought I would try anyway because I can always make it shorter. So that's all I have to share for now, I look forward to anybody's thoughts and constructive criticism (even if it isn't constructive, call me a dolt if you need to!) Cheers! The Bearded Welder
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