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Bearded Welder

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About Bearded Welder

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    Orangeville Ontario Canada

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  1. Thanks Frosty! I found the Peterson's stuff on amazon for 55 at 1 lb so that is doable, Ill get it next month in my next statement and we'll see how it goes! Cheers Phil the welder
  2. Thanks! I figured it would be good practise trying to make the hex type shape.
  3. Frosty, to be honest it's a couple of things, I've only had the forge running for 6 hours total so I'm just beginning to learn hammer techniques and get that better, and I'm making tools I know I will need like center punches and chisels. Lastly I guess I don't plan on doing any welding with it for at least a year until I have a firm grasp on the basics, that being said I understand the principles of how to do the welding and the steps, so I guess It wouldn't hurt to try just for the hell of it.. Just so I know it will do it. I have to get my hands on some inexpensive flux and I have no clue where to start...online? Farrier supply store that is up the road maybe? I don't see them needing flux though. About the vesuvius, I tried contacting the manafacturer but they were impossible to get them to call back and I couldn't find any guides online. I let it sit for an entire week before firing it.. But half way through the week a storm drove rain under my sliding shop door and soaked the one end of the Forge, so I peeled all that off of the end and reapplied the face,(it was so saturated with water that when it dried it was a really weird consistency that I didn't trust) then let it sit for another week, so technically the inner tube sat for 2 weeks For testing, should I mix it in say a paper cup, then once dried rip all the cup off and throw it in the forge? That sounded like alot of work, but I can just imagine how strong the finished product would be, definitely bullet proof! On the plus side at least I know my 1 inch burners were more than enough for my forge volume Just a pic of the chisel I made, my first tool I hammerd to 90% shape and then ground for finish, it started out as a little cut off of a RRR 1.5" square by 3.5" long Cheers Phil the Welder
  4. Hello all I just wanted to post an update from the burners 101 thread to here considering I'm finished the forge... Well... Sorta.. I had some large set backs and made stupid mistakes, it runs great (I think..) but the longevity of the inside castable wall is definitely in question.. So this is after 10 minutes of warm up at 15/20 psi just to get up to temp and then it will run at about 8 psi when the burners begin to slightly jug.. I get a bit of yellow dragons breath if I'm running at 8 psi but alot less if I run it at 12 and up which doesn't make sense to me Frosty, I took your advice and filled the void on the bottom floor, I used hard fire brick but I still used 3 inches of the kaowool in the main body and just 2 inches on the door (there will eventually be a door at the front with a small cut out) This is after 15 minutes of both burners running full out at 20 psi, I'm pretty sure it's welding heat but because of my lack of experience I'm not close to testing that theory by actually welding, once it's at this heat I can maintain it with one of my 1 inch burners at 8 psi no problem. This is the same but just a differant shot with the back door closed and a brick in the way to impede heat loss. Here is where I hit a bit of snag... So when applying my vesuvius refactory it would not spread easily at all and even with the blanket rigidize it started to take it apart on application think hard butter on cold toast (I was also using a gloved hand as I misplaced my trowel, I should have just bought one but I was impatient) so I had the GREAT idea of mixing the refactory with a bit of water to make it easier to spread, it worked but here is a picture where you can clearly see the refactory bubbling in many spots Then there is all the cracking inside which I assume is from uneven application (tried to stay at 1/4" thick but it was tricky) as well as the added mix of water, and now the whole thing looks like tectonic plates covered in bubbles... Here you can clearly see the 1/8" or more wide cracking. This picture is also taken 15 to 20 minutes after shut down so it retains its heat well (I think) So.. What do you all think? Should I just trowel over the cracks (found my trowel) with the non water mixed refactory and that should do or would someone recommend I pull each "tectonic plate" off inside until the first layer of kaowool is completly exposed and apply a whole new layer? Any advice and criticism is greatly appreciated! Ps.. I know it's still too big Cheers Phil the Welder
  5. Ah yes I think that might be a problem, so I just need the same kind of controller but with the same rating or higher as the motor?
  6. Hello everyone! So I looked all through the forum for possible info on this and I couldn't find anything so I'm hoping someone in this thread could help, or point me in the right direction, (I didn't know if I should start a new thread or not.. If yes let me know) I'm looking to build my own 2x72 grinder like yours Ironwoolf, and I found a treadmill motor online for cheap and I'm wondering if this controller on Amazon is plug and play? I have no where with all when it comes to electricity.. The motor with all the pertinent information And the controller I'm looking at Any guidance is greatly appreciated! Cheers! Phil
  7. Ah, ok so he is a sort of legend in the blacksmithing community I take it? I'll probably buy it off amazon, it'll be 20some Canadian but I'm sure it's chalk full of good things too read, that or kindle, I think my wife has one of those things. Thank you for the information! Much appreciated! Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  8. Ohh... No, but that does sound oh so very interesting! What medium is that in? A book? Online source? Possible in the IFI?
  9. Hello all, I think this is the correct place to post my anvil in progress, if not let me know. Let me start by saying yes I'm a little nuts to spend this amount of time on this project, but I was on a budget and work didn't mind me using filler as we have alot of waste anyway.. It started out as a chunk of RR, and then I got this crazy idea to make a full sized anvil from it.. I still need to weld the horn, and heel and feet on, but after 6 months on all my breaks at work, after multiple passes of Tig welding it is finally almost done..total cost of material was 40 dollars, I bought some rod of high carbon steel off a guy to weld into cavity to speed up the process, but every square inch inside is all welded together, no seam welding or the like at all so no gaps to cause vibration. I know I will lose most of my hardness when I do my pre and post heat for the welding so I'm trying to decide if I want to risk re hardening the face but I'm not sure of the best idea, I might just go the route of work hardening it with an air hammer instead of risking a heat and then quench... Let me know what you think, as well as any ideas! Cheers! Phil The Bearded
  10. Well thank you everyone for the terminology lesson, I'm going to re-read this page till that all sticks but definitely opened my eyes to what means what. Frosty I like metaphorical dangerous advice, it's alot of fun! But actual dangerous advice.. Not so much Cris, I'm probably just as green as you! The little orange fllickers you're seeing occasionally are probably flecks of debree from the nozzle, grinding dust, particularlets from an abrasive pad or cut off wheel, they go away after a while. An orange fan at the end of the burn being constant is more propane in the ratio than oxygen I'm pretty sure. Cheers, Phil the Bearded
  11. So oxidizing means too much oxygen, which I took to mean reducing? Do I have the terminology mixed up? On that track rich would be propane rich I assume.. I looked at the picture in better detail and now see a tiny bit of green between the primary envolope and the "tertiary" envolope, is that what tells you it's reducing which I'm now understanding means reduced oxygen and more propane...? Sorry to hyjack your post Cris J, I shouldn't have commented about your pictures until I have a better understanding of what I'm looking at, my apologies.. Phil the Bearded
  12. I don't know if this is acceptable for me to critique as A, I'm pretty new and B, this is Frosty's burner, but I would like to take a crack at it. Forgive me if it's not. Looking at your flame.. If I had to guess I would say it's a little oxidizing, I see purple on the fringes and white in the center, ideally you want no white and a deep blue hue..now I could be seeing it completely different in the picture compared to what your seeing in person because of what the camera does. Also it's hard for me to tell but it sort of looks like your ratios on your T are off..? I think Frosty's design for a 3/4inch burner has 1 inch air openings... Again it's hard to tell but it looks like your openings are bigger than 1 inch or your burner tube is smaller than 3/4inch..again I could be wrong. Since I'm new I would definitely wait for the greater knowledge of the others here, especially Frosty since it's his Design. Again forgive me if I shouldn't have added my 2 cents. Cheers! Phil The Bearded
  13. Mikey A great analogy if I ever heard one! Thanks for the tip! Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  14. Too funny Frosty! I have actually followed all those differant designs in this thread and it's all very interesting to me. I think it made a differance in my burner but positive in some ways and negative in others.. maybe made the burner slightly unstable do to mixing speed possibly? I might try and lengthen the tube to see if that settles it back down, I know I have a good base model to go from, but I can't help trying to always make it better... I'm sure nobody here ever feels like that..ha! Thanks! I might just add visual design into my criteria from now on So then my crappy hard fire brick might work a treat then, the wife will be glad to see me get some use out of them after she found out the money I spent on... Well... Basically fancy rocks because I found out later, unless you want to forge a pizza, they are basically useless.. True words Mikey.. Not everyone has that welding fan belt for instance.. Cheers! Phil the Bearded
  15. Frosty, you can call me Phil, of course that goes for anybody.. I could try and get my hands on some plutonium! That would really give me an edge I think! and I thought added swirl would be a good thing? Trying to mimic the concept that I read on the thread of the vortex burner but in just a differant way I guess.. Maybe I'm over doing it a tad? G-son, you idea of a cheaper insulation had crossed my mind but I'm not sure what kind of insulation could go on the exterior of the kaowool between it and the shell.. I'm assuming R14 pink panther won't cut it? Is there a cheaper less heat proof variety of ceramic blanket? I know of 8lb and 6lb and what I have is 8, but the price differance is negligable in my findings.. Thanks Phil The Bearded
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