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I Forge Iron

Pierre M

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  1. Not a pro welder by any mean by I own and run 5 or 6 welding machines (mig tig arc) between our mill shop and horse farm. Self taught and have the scars to prove it... I do burn on a daily basis from excavator repairs to small tube, stainless etc. rods are cheap and the only reason to use crummy rods is when you ran out everything else ,in a pinch, and only on a non critical repair, knowing it will eventually fail... I do not like giving advice but when asked by beginners I stick with the following line ; cheap tools and supplies can result in an ok job at the hands of a pro , after much swearing generally, and total failure at the hands of a beginner... why setting yourself for failure... would anyone teach their kid on a car without brakes clutch and blown shocks ? (Aside for picking hay bales in a field) get the best consumables possible period., buy them in small quantity from a reputable welding shop... 7018 is a dc rod unless specifically rated ac (do not like the way they burn) I favor Lincoln Excalibur 7018. Most will tell you I’m wrong yet I will not do a job with 7018 unless out of a brand new sealed can immediately stuffed in my rod oven and kept there ... I only pull them 2 or three at a time. rebaking 7018 is pretty much xxxxxx they need to be in a oven at proper temp until burned or they will no longer be up to snuff... Rod ovens are cheap... otherwise use another type of rod ... Pierre
  2. For the filter to be full it would have to be lower than the fuel supply or have some sort of lifter pump between supply and filter that would double as a check valve... in essence I think the way you have it set up it will ask the pump to prime at each start and push the air through the nozzle. Probably fine unless once the control "brain box" is in place, the time to evacuate the air and then fire is greater than the time the control allows for lack of ignition before tripping... in other words, if the control allows x seconds for flame sensor to provide input signal confirming ignition but the air pocket takes x+ seconds to be eliminated, you may have problems... Generally oil tanks supply line and filter are at the bottom so gravity keeps themfull so when heat call happens, the pump does not have to push air out before fuel getting to it. also, not a good idea to repeatedly run pumps dry since fuel oil also acts as a lubricant
  3. Up to not so long ago, a house panel would have all neutral and ground wires on the same bar.... Technically it works fine, until voltage returns through your neutral in which case your ground becomes energized ... separating ground and neutral on panels allows for greater safety...
  4. Jen, just one note regarding the "brain box" those honeywell controls with the reset red button will go into lock out after a few reset attempts in order to prevent the homeowner from filling the chamber with fuel without ignition.. it may be worth trying to do a tech reset before tossing it. I believe the procedure entails pushing the reset button for over 30 seconds, which should clear the fault...
  5. Also, dumb question, looks like there is a Honeywell control box on top of that burner. Would it be in lock out mode ? Pressing the red button too many times will do that and kill power to the pump...
  6. Did you try to "ring" (continuity test) your wires from one connection to another ? It will immediately tell you if you have a bad connection , burnt wire ... having had my head in rather large pieces of industrial equipment for many years my experience is when it suddenly quits after a tweak (adding a switch) the problem is generally the overlooked "dumbest" thing... in most cases at least for me it will send me in a wild goose chase of troubleshooting boards, servos, contactors, and suddenly kick myself in the rear for ignoring the obviously blown glass fuse or main power disconnect off with my tag on it ... I now approach troubleshooting as follows ; 99% of cases it is completely obvious and in front of my nose .... has saved me a lot of headaches and if not the case at least you know the basics are covered ... also, not sure of the system, but are there any controls in between input power and blower motor ? (Aqua stat / flame sensor etc?) in this case, you may have main power in J box but no input to motor due to low or high voltage safety device not happy and not energizing a relay or contactor somewhere... pierre
  7. Biggundoctor ; hammering on the face does not seem to indicate delamination, and rebound is moderate but all I have at hand is a rather small bearing which may affect the results due to the lack of mass. Also, the anvil is set on a welded 4x stand with a piece of 1/4 plate, and a moveable machine base under. This may contribute to the lack of ring since the base is strong but may absorb and not reverberate sound .... Frosty, thanks for the input, will try the vinegar etch.... I could not agree more with you as far as brand vs true fitting tools.... I’ve been in commercial architectural mill work for near 25 years and have 25,000 sf of tools from chisels to CNC routers and machining centers... many of our branded equipment functions well but is not always a perfect fit... it is a matter of personal choice. Many of my employees along the years boasted the high quality of their marple chisels, convinced the name implies quality... personally I think of them as a glorified glue scrapper and mini pry bar. The steel is way too hard to take a true edge. I suppose it’s ok when you dress your tools on a bench grinder until they smoke. On the other hand, I have owned a set of sandvik chisels for 30 years, hard enough to get the job done yet soft enough to raise a bur with a few light strokes on a water stone, they fit me perfectly and would not go anywhere without them ... My quest to identify this anvil is more curiosity, as well as the fact that a friend of mine sold it to me and if it is indeed a PW I would feel a tad embarrassed for involuntarily shorting him with a 100 dollar bill and would consider giving him a few more.... one thing that puzzles me is that the waist shows what I believe to be casting bubbles on both sides which does not seem in line with a forged anvil and PW... The photo with tape showing height illustrate what I am referring to ......
  8. Thanks Thomas, looks like I got lucky ...
  9. Thanks for all the input ... JHCC ; I did think it is a little" Writish" but considering what it cost me, did not want to be overly optimistic ... like your theory ... Marcus Aurelius ; no other marking that I can see anywhere .... your comment on rebound made me check that again, 24" drop gave me an average of 15" rebound with .5" ball.... PNut ; did get it for peanuts .... (ok that was cheap!) Thomas ; I like your 2-2-27 theory, certainly would explain the 306.5 spacing of the numbers is pretty wide for 27 and not sure it would all fit within the space ... Marc1 ; going for "Wrightish" until better analysis .... Definitely going to use it to forge. Side draft forge will be cut on our plasma table in a couple days .... Pierre
  10. Hello all, and thank you in advance for your help ... I acquired this anvil a couple years ago for a $ 100 bill, and it has since been parked in a corner of our welding shop. Finally had time to clean it up a little and would like your opinions as to its provenance. it is approximately 32" long, 13.5" high, 5.5" wide table, tips the scale at 306.5 lbs cannot see any obvious line between the body and table. Looked everywhere and the only markings to be found are a 2-7, first number being very difficult to read ; it could be a 3, an 8 , a 2 .... due to its actual weight of 306 lbs, I assume it is a 2 which would make it a 2-2-7 or 287 lbs .. not sure why the actual weight differs by an additional 19 lbs .... The odd thing being ; if it is a 2, the font would seem different than the next 2 .... The anvil has moderate ring at horn, stronger at heel (less mass I assume) faint ring on the table. Hammer seems to rebound nicely, a .5" ball bearing dropped from 12" rebounds at least 6"..
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