Chris C

I probably should have explained more clearly why the "150 pound chunk of steel" was something I'd probably never use.   I'm certainly not putting anyone down who has one.  If I stumbled onto one in the woods, I'd probably bring it home and put it in the shop.........and like Thomas, use it maybe once a year.  My opinion has to do with my purpose for using a forge and anvil.  Yes, I want to learn how to use a hammer and yes, I want to learn how to make many of the things blacksmiths are renowned for making.  But my reason for owning a forge and anvil is to make knives.  I'm wanting to be a bladesmith.  I make wood carving knives and sheath knives.  With that in mind, I don't think it makes sense for me to have the typical 250 lb swage block, cones and a rack with 50 different pair of tongs and scrolling tools.  I fully understand why all those accessories are practically considered a requirement in a blacksmith's shop.  But my work doesn't require them often enough for the expense.  Sorry my statement was so generic. 

That said, I fully realize there are going to be times when I might need a bottom fuller or Hot Cut Hardy.............which is why I think it makes more sense to make Hardy Tools for those few specific needs.  I'm a newbie and admit I don't know everything, so I could be wrong on this, but that's my take on it at this point in my journey.

Anvil, the reason I "thought" I needed some sort of a hold-down was because I'd be punching in a round hammer head.  Now that I've squared the portion that will have the handle hole in it, I shouldn't have any problems.

Thanks for the offer, but I'll pass.  As I said, I need to get busy and start making some Hardy tools that will do some of the things I might need.  I never have seen the need to buy a 150 pound chunk of steel with about 10 times the number of slots and do-dads I'll probably never use.  I might as well make 8 or 10 Hardy tools that will meet my needs.  Besides, who knows, I just might learn something and further my skills!

No, Don, I haven't.  No swage blocks, no Hardy tools to use as a stand in either.  I need to just quit fooling around and spend several months making tongs, Hardy tools, etc. 

Haven't managed to make any tongs yet.  Had to buy these because I was trying to make some tongs.  Got these and haven't gotten back on the project yet.

Tempilstic/temple stick.   You're a hoot, Thomas.  The only incense I like is what I purchase when on trips to CO and points West..................Pinon Incense.

Thanks, Latticino.  I've watched all of Brent's videos.  Fun/educational to watch a pro at work.  My problem was the hammer head is too large for any of my holding tools and was round. (Dog's Head Hammer)  So I'm squaring up everything except the face...........or actually blending from a round face to a square head, if that makes sense.  My Bolt Jaw tongs are set up for 5/8" and I didn't want to change them.  When it comes time to punch and drift I'm not going to be worried about holding it.  But right now I'm trying to lengthen the black by about an inch and I couldn't hold it while doing that.  I'll get there.  I'm just an unskilled newbie and am working slow.  Just trying not to be stupid about it!

Uncoiled about 20' of garage door spring to use for................oh well, just to use, I guess.  First time I'd done it and just wanted to see what it was like. 

Welded a rod onto the butt end of a hammer head I'm trying to lengthen.  Didn't have any tool to hold it, so went with welding a "handle" onto it.   The weld only lasted about 10 heats, but from what I understand that's about par for the course.  Will try and do some more work on it in the morning. 

Not going to quote you, Thomas because I don't seem to do anything right around here..........or at least that's what "my" mod implys.  I say "my" because we are getting almost on a first name basis!

I like the idea of the bar and not a stirrup.  Will consider that when the time comes.  (Now off to find a motorcycle chain.) 

Like I told Steve, I'd not heard of Templisticks before, but I might check into them.  Makes sense.  As far as checking the temp on the griddle.............I just wait until the light goes out at whatever temp the dial is set to. 

Hmmmmm.  Hadn't even thought of that, Steve.  My Dad was a jeweler and I think I've seen him use something like that before.

Any way, I heated it up with the rosebud on my Acetylene rig to a dull red and welded it.  Took a whole stick to make sure it welded deep.  It finally started getting loose on about the 10th heat.  It's still connected, but I didn't want it to come flying off.  I'll cut it off and repeat the process tomorrow.  Got a fair amount done.

57 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

As I recall the Gunther/Schuler anvil repair method suggests 400 degF preheat to repair weld on a steel face; so that's a place to start.

My friend on the blade smithing forum says 400 degrees also.  Not quite sure how to measure that on a piece of steel the size of a hammer head, but I guess I'll just wing it.

37 minutes ago, Anachronist58 said:

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/52504-motorcycle-chain-holddown/

Yup, a motorcycle chain hold down is in my future..............but this hammer head is now.

Yep, Thomas, I figured I'd need to pre-heat the head................but the question I asked a friend on another forum was "how hot".  Haven't heard back from him.  So what say you?  Should I toss it in the gasser and get it good and hot.......like to a dark, dark red?  Or should I just warm it with a torch?

Thanks, Glenn.

No need to apologize for asking a question.  No power/treadle hammers in my shop.  I'm swinging a hand-held hammer for now..............and more than likely forever.  I'll have to hold onto the rod I weld onto the butt of the hammer head with tongs held between my knees and the punch/drift in my off-hammer hand.  Is it the best method?  Probably not.  Do I have someone to hold it for me while I hammer?  Do I have a sledge hammer serf?  Nope.  I'm all by my lonesome here, but lots of smiths work alone.  Jennifer makes plenty of hammer heads (without a power hammer) by her self, as I imagine do a lot of smiths.  I'm trying to find a work around to be able to do this myself.

That's one good looking folding skinner, Jspool.  I like it.  The carving and texturing on the scales is superb.   Well done.

Great suggestions, Glenn.  Am aware of all those.  However the head of this hammer is only 3" long at this point and I need to forge it out longer so I can punch and drift the handle hole.  I think I'm going to weld a rod to the heel of the head and use the rod to hold it whilst I hammer.  Then I can cut the rod off after I stretch, punch and drift.  I came to that decision about 2 hours ago when someone from another forum said that's what he does in this situation.  (didn't want you to think I'd come up with the idea on my own.) 

I've done a fair amount of Rust Blueing.  Of course, it doesn't turn out a Rust color but a deep Black.  I use it on a lot of firearm parts.  Personally I like the look a lot and have been tempted to break down my Ruger Blackhawk and completely Rust Blue it..............just because the color looks so good.  It's not hard to do.................kind of like the Browning Solution process Arby described.

My "big" wife died in 2001, George.  She doesn't call my neighbor anything.    She was 5' 8" tall.  My "little" wife is 4' 9" tall.........which is why I refer to her as "my little wife".

I know I've been around for a year now, but have just really started forging in the last month or so.  I think I have my Dog's Head hammer ready to punch and drift for a handle.  But I learned quickly in the process of forging the shape,  neither of my two pair of tongs will hold the blank and certainly not solid enough to drift.  I don't have any kind of hold downs.  What would be the easiest and most secure way to hold that hammer head to punch and drift a hole?

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!

My friend had and sold me two of these for $10...........so now I'm fixed for buckets.  Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.

Those heavy duty two-wheelers look as if they'll do the job.  If you have welding equipment, it would be fairly easy to make one.

Thanks, Neil.  We've got a couple of Import Auto repair shops in town.  I'll check them out. 

I've got a rather small ammo can for my heat treating oil that was just 10 bucks.  But when you get one as large as a 5 gallon container, they are far more expensive than a metal bucket.  Last night I got to thinking and remembered a friend down the road is a "collector" like many farmers.  He has stacks of everything you can think of.  His place is kind of like a thrift shop..........except for farmers.   My little wife calls him a hoarder..........I just call him when I need something.  Think I remember seeing some of those cans in a shed at his place.  I'll check today and see if he has any.

Indeed they do.  Buy three and they are only $9 each.  Not too bad...........until you figure in the freight for three empty pails that take up a good amount of space.

That would likely work.   I thought about cutting the top off a propane bottle, but I'd have to cover the edge.  I used to be in the plastic industry and we had a U-shaped edge capping strip that would be perfect............only I'd probably have to purchase a minimum amount that would likely be 3 or 4 lifetimes supply.

Thanks, I'll try and check into that.

Hmmmmm.  I'm in Tractor Supply, Atwoods and my local feed store almost weekly and have never seen those metal "paint" cans.  I'll have to ask next time I'm at those places.  Thanks for the heads up, George.