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He is downsizing. From the last time I was there it sounded like the shop was done sometime in August, and the auction for his equipment would start in September. I also got the impression that if you wanted something before the auction you could make them an offer.

It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but did you round the bottom edges of the hammer eye where the handle passes through? It looks sharp on my screen. By how it’s breaking at the head it seems like a sharp edge that is stressing the handle.

Manifold those burners together with black iron pipe, and extend out away from the heated area with it. Then you can convert to hose in a safer area that won't get damaged. I can't imagine it would be more than $30.

What do you use the foil for? You’ve got my curiosity piqued.

Found exactly what I’m trying to accomplish, round hot collar. Thanks for the suggestion!

I’m working on a project where I need a 2” section of a 1” diameter the bar to be 1-1/2” diameter. I don’t have any larger stock than the 1” diameter bar, and I tried upsetting a section and it was very slow going. An alternative I came up with is to use small 2” long piece of heavy wall tubing and forge weld that to the diameter of the 1” bar. I’d prefer it forge welded if it’s practical, it would be a good learning experience and the weld higher strength. Any specific approach in making the weld? Or is it simply flux the bar, slide the tubing section on, and forge the diameter in one direction working my way around to the starting point?

Sounds like the replacement anvil is coming faster than expected?

Good news. Are they handling the return shipping or do you own that?

I found a 45 Rc file I had tucked away and tried it on the same area you did in your video. It’s definitely below 45. I’ve had mine for 2 months. I’m sure it’s far too late at this point, and they’ll claim I got it too hot and it lost its temper. And seeing how I did bounce a ball bearing on it, technically the warranty is void. Though they didn’t have that disclaimer when I bought it. I was thinking a drop forged anvil would have been better than the cast, as I was considering a Holland anvil or old world anvil at the same time. Seems like quality of the heat treat is almost as important as the material itself. Kind of hard to judge the HT over the internet. Live and learn. I hope they make it right for you. It might be a bad batch of anvils, but it goes to show their QC is clearly not what it should be.

Slug: Are you working through centaur or directly Kanca? I’ll likely pick up a set of files and follow suit.

I'm interested to see what they do for you, because I'm certain my anvil would show similar results. I also agree that I think they would sell really well if the hardness was consistent. It's really disappointing because there were good older used anvils at the same price.

So, I'm going to jump in on this conversation. I have a 165 lb Kanca as well, and have felt the face is pretty soft. I wasn't sure though as I'm a newbie and didn't know what to expect for anvil hardness. Just this past week I had a chance to try out another anvil, older peter wright I believe, and missed a blow on it. Didn't do anything to the anvil. I've missed a blow on my 165 lb Kanca (ordered from Centaur Forge), and it put a deep ding in it. This was with a 2 lb cross pien which is pretty soft to begin with (able to file fairly easily), and I was by no means swinging for the fences. Attached is a picture. Also, I did the ball bearing test when I first got the anvil, and have indents similar to the thread mentioned previously. I dropped a 1" ball bearing from 5" from the face. It's tough to get the pictures up close with my phone, but I think you get the point. So, it seems as there is more than one lemon floating around. I agree on this as well. If my anvil only dented that much with a full miss I'd consider that acceptable.

Thanks Glenn, makes sense. For a heading tool, is there any type of standard for the length of nail vs shank size? I thought I had remembered reading somewhere how wrought nail sizes were standardized.

If I were to consider cut nails, how would you go about forging those? Would I draw the taper and then flatten one side a bit more as the last step, rendering a rectangular shape?

Thanks for the explanation Frosty. I agree Glenn, it would be a good idea to add the barbs.