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I Forge Iron

Mr Moose

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Posts posted by Mr Moose

  1. picker77, If you have not found a shell for the forge, I used a water heater tank. I strip the outer sheet metal and insulation off then cut both the length you want from the top of the water tank. The top dome is then removed. Split the tube you have just made down the middle. 2 ratch straps will pull it down to the size you want and then weld into place. Cut the top dome to fit the new size of tube that was created. This will be the rear of the forge. Insulate and cast as instructed elsware.   As a bonus the rest of the tank (it will be to long) can be left as is to use as a slack tub.

  2.  In my experience, tobaco knives need to be a good bit more spring than hard if that makes sense. I haven't seen a field yet that did not have rocks of some form and size. When you cut thru the stalk, you will strick the ground a lot of times. You don't want it to bent or break. The cutting action is more from the velocity and thinness of the blade. When we sharpened them it only took a few swipes of a file to be good to go. 

     No recommendation on steel is being made.

     And think of the spike as just a nail and a sheet metal funnel.

  3.  I have just placed an order for the cone mandrel and the 50 lb swage block from your web site. I would like to thank you for manufacturing these. I have been looking for a small cone and I thing this will work right nicely.  Have a great weekend. Look foward to using them. 

  4. I undrestand that this thread is old, but, I just used this basic method to repair my post vice. My question is is there a purpous in the screw box being closed on the end. It looks like it would be easier to clean and lube if it were left open on the back side. Any thoughts on this. 

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