Mr Moose

Respectfully,  I believe that Dan may be right. With no air valve after the blower, mine would do the same thing. 97 cfm is Way to much air for my setup, even with a shutter on the blower. I would suggest less air. 

 And open the propane tank slowly,  it will help keep the safety valve from engaging.  

I made my swedge block/stand to be at the same height as my anvil.  Not hard to move it into position as a helping hand.

I consider myself a tool maker. I have made hammers and of course tongs. Made all the tooling that I use to make hammers. Fire place tools. I have made a few knifes.  Various types of hooks and brackets. I like making things I need. 

I have never been very artistic but,  a lot of our members on IFI are very artistic. I am constantly amazed at the work that they are producing. 

 My suggestion is to find the "thing " that makes you happy and pursue it to its fullest.  

 Thats just my 2 cents worth. (before taxes).

I have a 110 ld Kanca as well. Great anvil at a good price. Cheep shipping as well. 

I suspect that they will be fine. They realy are very laid back dogs. 

The brand is Whytheat K. 60% Alumina . Calcium bonded with a service temp of 2912F (1600C). I did probaly exceed that temp? It happened after about 3 hrs forging on a 5lb 4340 hammer billet. Was paying more attention to the metal that forge temp. Placed the metal in the forge a little rough (slid on floor of forge after it sliped) and pushed up a small bit of refractory. About 30 min later, heard a wierd noise in the forge, Split the burner in 1/2 (bad layout on the holes in my multi-port burner). The forge chamber was at an honest "white heat". Hurt to look at it much. 

Needless to say I pay more attention to the forge temps and went back to my vers.1 burner which works very well. But I do like to experiment.

Awww. Such a hansom lil fella. Hugs and back scratches from the puppy pile.

Trouble is that you will have to remove metal to get to the bottom of the damage. 

Mikey, what % is considered high alumina? I have this hapening with 60% alumina castable refractory.

I forgot to mention that the main thing it will be used on is 4340. And of corse I would temper it back to.

Made this spring fuller today. Stock was 23 mm torsion V.W. Bug Rear spring. Turned out well. One question, Would you harden the working wnd or leave it normalized?

Bullys are great about that. Mastered that move they have.

The marked area is what i am talking about.

CGL, I agree. If more people followed this, the world would be a much better place.

Awww. She looks like such a sweetie.  Give her lots of hugs and belly rubs from the Moose herd. 

And remember.  Life is better in the puppy pile. 

I find the smoth transition from face to round horn useful for drawing out, like a bottom fuller with the rounding hammer as the top fuller. Like a set of drawing dies for a power hammer. 

From what I read, that will be a lot to teach.

Old fashioned rolled oats work a treat. Flaxseed is also great for dogs, especially there coat. All 3 of mine love them both.

Eventlessbox, Yes , it is a 50 Kg Kanka. I have had it for about 1 year. It has served me well. 

I use more of a foot lever.

And a GREAT way to releave the stress of dealing with the public all day in the course of my paying job.

Everytime I see that door knocker, I think of a drop hammer for a mouse hole forge. LOL. I like it. 

Here is a pic of the one I cary in me tool bag.

As a Machinest I tended to cut the tangs off of my files and give it a nice round over. I have tried and can not stab myself with it rounded over. Rasp for hot work, I do like for my hand to be away from the heat though, so I tend to handle those.

Looks like slag from making iron.