chrisfrick

Okay, for the last couple of years I've been using charcoal for my fuel. I recently acquired a 3 gallon bucket of what I believe to be anthracite from one of my wife's friend's husbands who's dad used to be a blacksmith. I originally intended this "sample" of coal to be used for the heat treating of my homemade anvil, along with some charcoal thrown in--worked great. I have some left over, so this weekend I decided to do some scientific experimentation to see if I could successfully utilize coal in my charcoal forge (Lively style washtub type forge). My only concern was clinker clogging up the rather small holes in my tuyere, but figured that all I needed to do was to just dig down into the fire and move stuff to the side, which also worked. I then did something in this forge that I've tried numerous times with charcoal with zero success. I was able to forge weld!! I have a small "spoon" type thing that's about 12 inches long that I use for moving fuel around in the forge with that I put in the fire and let sit for about a minute or two, then I took another piece of stock that I had tapered down to a point in a previous forging session and let that sit in the fire as well. I immediately noticed the steel was able to achieve a yellow-white heat (which no matter what I have tried in the past, could not achieve with charcoal) and decided to "stick" the two pieces together. What happened? They stuck together, and as I removed the two from the fire and let them cool, they stayed stuck together! So my problem now, is that although I'm coming around to actually liking the smell of coal burning, is that the only supplier in my area charges exhorbatent prices for coal. Also, the hamster on the wheel in my head started running about how I need to build a coal forge now (well, maybe that's not a problem!). I'm going to check some on-line resources for coal suppliers in my area, but does anyone know if I can buy either reasonably priced, or cheap coal in either the Sacramento or San Francisco areas? -Chris

That's great! Now where did I leave that section of track I had laying around... I actually made something similar to that, but smaller for a pen that my co-workers kept stealing--a large piece of aluminum tied with a string to the pen. I still have the pen (and it's still where I put it!) -Chris

On stuff that I have that needs to be stored, I use LPS #3--it goes on a little thin, then some of it evaporates and forms a rather sticky film. Not the best for something like a hammer that needs to be used. If you have material with a slight coating of rust, just rub it down with any available light machine oil of your choice. I have many tools that I buy new and pay top dollar for that are nice and shiny and then develop over about a year or two period, a really nice thin layer of rust--by keeping that layer on there and somewhat maintained throught the use of light oiling, they should last a very, very long time without any appreciable wear. -Chris

If you're willing to spend around $100 (US) *and* you want to build something that will last and function very well, look into 4140 at some of the "hobby" metal suppliers (I occasionally use Speedymetals, as they'll cut any length of any material they supply in 1 inch increments and charge by the inch). I have a 4 1/2" X 2 1/4" X 10" piece that I've been using for the last several months (after I heat treated it--look into the proper heat treating of the material before attempting--this is oil hardening steel--I use ATF) and it's been working great. Just remember to not have your head in-line with your hammer swing as it can develop excellent rebound! (I've never missed my work piece and had the hammer travel instantaneously to my forehead, and I'll never do it again!) -Chris

Thanks for the info, Wapiti--I've used the furnace cement in several projects and have had the same problem with the bubbling. I added water to the mix to get it from a thick, stiff clay into something more workable and also let it dry for weeks. I'll try what you suggest by heating and "re-forming" the bubbles. -Chris

Thanks, Fe-wood. I was looking at the California state parks websites and maybe I'll give them a call to volunteer. I only live about a 12 minute drive from Sutter's Fort, and it would be kind of fun to work in there every once in awhile. Does anyone know if the Czech style hammer similar to Hofi's was in use around the mid 1800's?? (would be nice to use my Hofi hammer!!) -Chris

Thanks, George--I've seen some of Lorelei's work and a couple of short videos. I'll have my wife check it out. My main question was--does anyone know anything about the Smithy at either Sutter's Fort, or Cal-Expo? (I would've asked the guy at the state fair, but my 3 year old needed to "go potty" and then we had to get going.) As for Sutter's Fort, I was going to give those people a call sometime in the future, but was just wondering if anyone on IFI knew any details about the smithy there--*looks* functional, but who knows. (thought it was funny that something started by a Swiss guy has nothing but English style anvils in there!) -Chris

As I'm not yet a member of the California Blacksmith's Association (question probably more directed to that organization), I was wondering if anyone on IFI knows any details about the smithy at Sutter's Fort in Sacramento? Is it functional, is there a group that demo's there, etc.? While I'm on the subject of Sacramento area smithies, anyone know anything about the one at Cal Expo? I was there with my wife for the state fair, and there was a woman working at one of the anvils which got my wife to exclaim, "Chicks can do this?!" To which I replied, "Sure! Come out to the back yard sometime and we can do it together!" (she hasn't been out there yet, but I'm still trying...) -Chris

Great explanation, Glenn. Perhaps the reason I did not contact my head was due to the fact that I forge exactly how you explained--slightly to the side of the work. I've never lined myself up with the work because from the side, I can see what I'm doing. Just feels natural to me. -Chris

Now I feel better! (read: I've never done that, and I'll never do it again!) I *almost* contacted my forehead with 2 3/4# crosspeen a while back as I was working tired and the sun was going down. On the other hand, it was a really good, scientific test of the hardness and tempering of my home-made anvil. No dents, cracks, marks at all and it sent my hammer flying! I actually think it's harder than that particular hammer. Using a 3# Hofi now, and haven't "checked" the rebound of my anvil...yet... -Chris

Blueprint, blueprint, blueprint!! That's great! I'm going to have to try that! Nice work! -Chris

That's great, Mr. Hofi! When I have made leaves in the past, I've brought the tip to a round taper, rather than square--I'm going to have to try your method tomorrow morning! Thanks for the pictures. -Chris

All the scrap yards in the Sacramento area will not sell to the "public." I tried all the places around when I was scrounging for my anvil piece, and the only places that I could find that would sell to the general public were suppliers of "new" steel (and at that it was only A36 and 1018), but would sell drops, cut offs, their "scrap", etc. Total bummer. -Chris

Exactly what Glenn said--the ambient noise throughout the day will change dramatically, and what your neighbor perceives as "acceptable" may be drastically different that what you're going for. One note on the sound meter--Use the "C" weighted scale, as this is a better translation of what the human ear actually hears with loud noise (A-weighting, and I may be wrong, does not take into account the frequency response of our ears--every frequency is "seen" as equal. That is if you have a frequency of 1 Khz with a sound pressure level of 80 dB and a frequency of 30 Hz with a sound pressure level of 80 dB, the A scale will see them as the same, whereas the C scale will take into account how your ears actually hear those frequencies). I don't know where you live, but in the U.S. we have Radio Shack (as mentioned earlier) that sells sound meters--they had several different models in past years and I picked mine up for approximately $25 US about 10 years ago.

Mousehole = an anvil I would like to have. Rathole = a place you stash "valuable" items for use in the future (usually far and distant) that you want segregated from other "valuable" items.

My wife really didn't like me forging in the backyard at first (I use charcoal), then I made her a leaf key ring and she thought that was great. Then I told her I'd make her a calla lilly candle holder set, and another key ring resembling a treble clef symbol (she's into music) and all I can say is WOW! Complete 180 degree turn around. Try making her something that's pretty that she can look at and/or use on a daily basis, then the complaints of the coal smell may subside. (get her to show her friends the things, too). Just some thoughts, -Chris

Thanks TONS, Frosty--now I get it completely. Just waiting on some insulating materials, ITC-100 and some time to go do some welding/forging to make a stand. I'll definitely get back with some pics and notes. -Chris

Okay, seems like I *might* have to pump Frosty for info after all. All this talk about the flare has confused me back to my original question--is the flare convergent (gets smaller at the end of the tube), or divergent (gets bigger at the end of the tube), is it on the actual burner tube, or built into either a mount on the forge, or part of the inside of the forge? Closeup pictures would help a great deal.

Okay, makes sense now. Thanks for the info, Frosty. I probably won't have all the materials together for about another month or so, but I'll definitely post pics when it's all done and runnin.

Hi all, this is more a question for Frosty, being that I'm using his burner design for my first gasser (and I didn't even have to pump him for info! . My question is this: how far does the nozzle of the burner protrude into the forge? Should it be even with the inside refractory material, pulled out slightly, or just adjust the depth for best burn? BTW, the forge is being built out of a R134a refrigerant cylinder and it's going to have a single, 3/4" burner, insulated with kaowool/itc-100 (or equivalent).

The only thing that I use to remove scale is vinegar--I just get a plastic container, put my piece in it, fill it up and let it sit for a couple of hours (usually overnight, as I do all this around the end of the day). Of course this only works on pieces that are smaller and will fit in a container--probably won't work well on a hand railing, or something like that! One thing on the vinegar, though--only use WHITE vinegar for this as it's cheap and plentiful. (Use the "apple cider" and balsamic vinegars on a salad or something, not metal.) :)

It's a little rusty--could they clean it up so it's nice and shiny? I'd think about buying it then!

Definitely an excellent post--after hearing of Paw Paw's demise several years back, I stay far, far away from galvanized pipe--all black pipe from then on. Now it looks like I'm going to actually read labels on solvents from now on and stop playing around with MEK, Acetone, Toluene and the likes. (I think the picture of Paw Paw in the shop just might scare *everything* away!)

Here's a picture of my small charcoal forge--I have a slightly larger one that I purpose-built for the heat treating of the top section of my anvil (pictured). Total cost was about $25 (U.S.). I used a homemade castable refractory that I found on the web and the "blower" was an old hairdryer my wife gave me after the heating element went south. I made a variable speed power supply for it (with spare parts I had laying around--I'm into electronics both as a hobby and as a profession, so if I had to price that, it'd probably be about $25). Used cardboard boxes lined with tin foil to cast the "bricks" on the top--really helps with cutting down both sparks and fuel consumption. All in all, a really cheap setup--also, I can get lump charcoal at my local megamart in 15 lb. sacks for about $9. The only drawback I could see with this is you couldn't use it in your garage, or a shop that wasn't specifically designed for this type of forge. I'm going to be starting on a small gasser in about a week or so, which (theoretically) should cost about $150.

Ah, okay--makes sense now. A 4" steel ball would *definitely* stretch it out!