Rey

Looking to buy burr king 960-272 belt grinder with small wheel attach., 2 wheel platen attach. Let me know thanks, Rey

I'm looking to buy a used SP135T mig welder. If anyone on the forum know of 1 for sale let me know, thanks. Rey email: Sgtvnamvet@gmail.com cell# 956-222-6567 in south Mission, Texas.

I have a 52" commercial mower and the blades are 18" long and thick steel. I've made 4 knifes using the blades. I cut the steel with my angle grinder carefully and grind to shape the knife. While flat grinding with belt grinder to make edge, as it gets hot I dip in water each time until edge and polish is done. I use a propane torch to heat the spine of knife to blueish color just before it gets to blade edge and dip in water, let it cool and polish again using fine grit to final step on buffer to put a mirror polish, lastly put a sharp edge and test hardness of edge by rolling the knife edge on a brass rod. If the edge chips it needs to be torched again or set in oven for 400 deg.for 1 hour. If it the edge holds it's good, if it don't oven cook again and it should be ok. Maybe because it's a commerical made mower blade the steel is good, I don't know but, it works for me it even cuts mesquite branches well and holds the edge here in south Texas.

Thank you Thomas for your kind words and Matt for the correct spelling, my mistake. Kind words to friends are taken into heart and mind so, I do appreciate it kindly gentlemen. Thanks, Rey in Texas

Thanks for the input, gents and rock-n-time it seems to me that I don't need to be lectured by you and I don't have to come back and ask the right questions. All I wanted to know is what kind of flux is needed to forge weld and I just added my way of making my knives. No one is perfect and every knife maker or steel artist has there own way of doing the art. But, I do appreciate the good words by the other gents. Rey

I'm new to forge annealing, heat treating, tempering, and forge welding. I'm interested to know what kind of flux to use when forge welding like what I saw on you tube. Good demonstration on a horse shoe, attaching both ends using heat and flux. Annealing is to soften the steel right?, heat treating is when non-magnetic quench in oil, tempering is using a stove @ 400degrees to temper for 2 hours right?. And wah-la grind in between and final the edge and handle and there's a knife finished hopefully all by using a forge and belt grinder etc. Rey

Many thanks for the info. Rey

I have a new forge made from a large freon bottle lined with ceramic wool and coated with rutland refractory cement. It had some cracked cement inside so, I proceeded to add some more refractory. I did let it dry but, due to humidity in the south of Mission, Texas, I didn't let it dry enough time. Used a propane torch to slowly heat up and it started bubbling (cement coating) so, I stopped. It sure looks ugly inside ? is, do I scrape off the new coating or just use it as is?. I have read from others that satanite can be a better substitute than what I used. I'm new at this at adding coating and all. Also, I can use ITC-100 to coat over satanite or refractory cement. Can anybody help me into what to use to re coat my forge, and where to get it for a good price?. Rey:confused:

Glad to join and ask and learn on how to's about forging etc. Rey: