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I Forge Iron

Mick

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Posts posted by Mick

  1. I trolled this up with face book. Wish I knew better how it works but there you go. I too was anxious for news on the big fellas progress.

    De Frost | Facebook


    I was concerned about privacy but this is public domain stuff. I haven't tried to contact deb or add anything to her page but at least I got an ieea of where Frosty is at currently.

  2. Heres the result of some simple math. Speed at the rim of a 6" diameter wheel at 1850 rpm = 48 feet/second. Speed of a 24" wheel at 1850 rpm = 194 feet/second. Speed of 24" wheel at 100 rpm = 10.5 feet/second.

    Sam if your bench grinder wheel size and rpm and your pedal grinder wheel size and rpm are even remotely similar to these then this was always going to be a recipe for disaster.

    Your observation of the difference in the composition of the original sandstone and the modern composite wheels is very valid but even if you tried to spin a modern wheel up around 20 times its design speed I suspect you would get a similar result.

    Really glad you survived the experience unscathed.

  3. A post vise squeezes two jaws against a piece of work via a screw. Also called a leg vise or blacksmith vise or post vise.

    A post drill inserts holes into metal by stock removal. A post drill is powered by a hand cranked wheel and enough open gears to look medieval and scare some adults. Many times it was mounted to the post of a post and beam building, or today to the walls of the smithy.

    As far as converting it to a modern chuck, deliver it to Big Chimney. I have modern today's style and type electric in the shop, I will change my name to Chuck, and the problem will be solved. (grin)


    This wasn't funny enough to make me laugh.................but it did raise a chuckle.
  4. Colleen, when stair makers do this they will pre-assemble the stairs in the workshop and make the railing to the staircase. You will need to recreate the stairs in your workshop with a dummy structure and fit your rail to the curve. measure each tread of the stairs very carefully, (make sure you measure to the same points on each one) also measure the height of each one above the last.
    On site set up a gauge pole, that is long enough to go from ground level to the top of the stairs, absolutely plumb, (vertical). Position the pole where an extended line from the face of bottom stair and the face of the top stair intersect. Take accurate measurements from the pole to front corner of each stair tread.
    In the workshop mark the height of each stair on the gauge pole, and set the pole up plumb. Make a pattern of each stair tread (16mm mdf would be good). Using your offset measurements you can then fix each tread to scaffolding (basically joining the dots) You should end up with a very accurate copy of the stairs and a working platform. Build your rail to this.

    If I were you I would subcontract this portion to a carpenter, for airfare food and lodgings I would be happy to do it for you but I guess it would be cheaper to use someone local.

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