SEMO forge

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    Cape Girardeau, MO

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  1. thank you for the advice, ill go ahead and wait as Steve said but would be interested in using he tong method some time
  2. so would you recommend it to use a torch to try to draw out the temper? ive got a blade of 1095 that is 14.75 overall and wont be able to temper it in an oven right away. ive seen people grind or use a disc to scratch a small bit off the edge and wait until they see a straw color using the torch and quench it then when they get that color.
  3. M&H Armitage Mouse Hole Anvil

    it does not have a pritchel hole
  4. Heat treat information

    the science fair project was very helpful
  5. M&H Armitage Mouse Hole Anvil

    i was working for a man at my church yesterday and found this anvil, can you guys help me date it at all? it feels like mine in weight (about 115lbs) the farm was bought in the 1880s and i don't know when the anvil was bought (with the farm or after)
  6. Anvil Cleanup

    thank you very much once again
  7. Anvil Cleanup

    thanks again, but what about that round piece that was with it ( down to the right) ive never seen one or heard of people using them. for all i know it was just something my papa put on it and forgot about for 10 years
  8. Anvil Cleanup

    thank you, ive read never to grind on the anvil but people still do it and i wasnt really sure how to go about it. the face analogy really got the point across here is the picture, i tried to make it smaller but if it didn't work i apologize
  9. This anvil has been sitting on my Papa's back porch for as long as i can remember and he got it from a friend and who knows where he got it. It's about 115 lbs and not in bad shape from what i can tell, but the table is pretty torn up. I've seen people cut lines in their hammers for texture but never an anvil and that is what it looks like here. how should i go about cleaning it up? A friend of mine said to use an angle grinder, and my teacher has put his anvils to his surface grinder, i don't want to ruin the anvil by overheating and it is really only the table that is bad. Also, What is the round cup like thing? ive never seen one and it was with the anvil so im lost on that one.
  10. Any tips?

    I may have not worded this right previously, what exactly does a short soak time mean?
  11. Any tips?

    is there a way to relocate this post to the heat treating thread? if so ill gladly do it It has been relocated
  12. Any tips?

    Forgive me, im still getting used to the site and realize this is the wrong thread to be asking heat treating questions. i saw a previous post where you said "1095 likes a short soak time before the quench" im a little confused what exactly you mean by a short soak time, and will this be any significance to me since i will not be forging the steel.
  13. Any tips?

    I've just gotten a bar of 1095 and plan on making several medium to large knives from it. Any input on hings like heat treating? I've heard that 1095 can be finicky with somethings but everyone says different things about different steel. I can't forge yet so I've just been doing stock removal.
  14. making first forge

    thank you all, I was trying to over complicate things with welding the firepot to the bottom, I just did't like the idea of the lip getting in the way of extra fuel. the more I think about it the more I realize that it really won matter that much. I do have a few questions still. what are clinkers and what is the need for a clinker breaker? I've been looking at the firepot design in the complete bladesmith by Jim Hrisoulas and i didn't see that in it. is it needed?
  15. making first forge

    Would using a brake drum style firepot work for this? Possibly cutting a whole in the table and then welding the brake drum to the bottom side?