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About bluesman7

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  1. If you're going to be making billets and folding or cutting and stacking you will be doing a lot of drawing out. Drawing those pieces out to 1/4" thick or so to start will be a small part of the work. I would be sure that I was proficient at welding chromium alloy steel before attempting A billet with those pieces. I have no idea how those pieces will work for damascus, but my gut feeling is that there might not be strong contrast.
  2. I meant that I wish that I could hold the pieces personally for a more complete appreciation of your work. Thanks for the anvil dimension, I was guessing close to that.
  3. Very nice. I wish I could see the pieces in hand.
  4. The modulus of elasticity (flex for a given load) is identical for hardened and unhardened steel up to the yield point of the unhardened piece. Since you don't want the spatula to ever take a set (yield), I would harden it. The hardened steel will be able to flex farther without taking a set . 3/32" to 1/8" would be a good place to stop forging IME.
  5. Rocky Mountain Smiths. I'll shoot you a message.
  6. Cut off a piece of the shank end and make sure that you can harden it. Assuming that it is hardenable, you may be able to untwist it and upset it to get extra thickness.
  7. There is an open forge in Berthoud tomorrow.
  8. Hmmm... I have zero secondary air coming into my forge around the burner. The refractory is sealed right against the nozzle. I did open the choke a bit from how it was adjusted for free air. This might explain why my mild steel nozzles have such a long life.
  9. ^^This^^ Scruffy, I'm sure that I'm using the same coal as you. If you pile on green coal it will be very smoky. You can start your fire with a bit of charcoal and let the coal coke on the outside of the fireball before moving the coke into the fire. I personally don't like to ever put green coal into my fire, but some do.
  10. I used to have my tank on the cart under the forge. I've since moved the tank outside with rigid pipe through the wall and up to the ceiling and a drop hose to the forge. There is a shut off immediately after the pipe enters the shop. I feel much better now.
  11. I'm not very experienced looking a propane/air flames, but that looks rich to me, I've found that having a CO monitor in the shop is.... ahem, useful. I had my burner tuned neutral in free air, then when running in the forge. at the same settings, being reducing and producing CO, even though it looked pretty good through a peep hole into the forge.
  12. For videos check out Brian Brazeal's tong making videos. Tongs are not considered a beginner level project, but I certainly learned a lot by making several sets of tongs. So far all of my tongs are self made.
  13. Moving the choke to the other side did improve the flame significantly. I'll play around with the nozzle overhang a bit before putting the burner back into the forge. Thank you!
  14. I can easily shorten it, but there may be a design issue with the nozzle. The nozzle is a straight 1-3/8" bore. The outside end of the 3/4" burner tube is built up to this same 1-3/8" size. This is what fits my forge. Do I understand correctly that your normal stepped nozzle for a 3/4" burner is made from 1" pipe"? I can make another burner to use a different size nozzle, but I would like to get the present burner running as good as possible to use in my existing forge. I lengthened the overhang after the choke mod because I thought the flame looked better. Can you describe what I'm looking for as I shorten it, or should I just shorten it by 1/8" and get another picture? The overhang is 1-13/16" in that photo. Is it best to use the choke to get a neutral flame while tuning the nozzle? Thanks again for the help.
  15. Choke wide open. Choke adjusted to what I perceive as neutral. Sorry about the focus.