Hotshoein4 (Mark)

A fellow farrier and friend from southern Illinois is fighting brain cancer. At a horshoeing clinic, they also had a fundraiser for him. This was my contribution. Melted copper wire down to make it. Its a sidebone shoe. Therapeutic horseshoe. It raised some decent money for him. I just wanted to share with everyone. 

Mark

I kind of agree with you. From most of my research, the legs are chamfered. It's not overly important, I'd just like to figure it out. I want to take a wire wheel to it at some point to see if I can see anything else

Here's the only stamp I found. Either "10" or "1C"

Thank you. I will look for it. 

Scored this the other day. It's in beautiful condition. Been trying to figure out what this vise is. Almost looks like a PW, but I can't find any markings. The jaws measure about 5 3/4-7/8". Somewhere in that area. 

Thanks, 

Mark

Honestly, the best way to learn is going to hang out with other blacksmiths. Do a lot of watching and staying out of the way. Ask questions. Then, get some steel and see how it moves with different hits and different spots on the anvil. Like a rounding hammer can stretch steel just as good as a cross pein if you have the control. That's what I did and still do almost 12 years later. Most importantly have fun and don't get to mad when you screw stuff up. It happens. A lot. 

Frosty nailed it.

As for a hammer, I'd get a 2lb rounding hammer. Properly shape the handle way down from the original thickness. You can learn to get a lot of whip out of a hammer and hit extremely hard with a 2lb hammer and not get worn out. 

Learn how to properly swing a hammer. How to use to use tongs. Read and read some more. Learn the terms and tools of the trade. Blacksmithing, I personally think, is a huge commitment. Dedicate yourself to it if it's what you really want to do. So after your full time job,  dedicate the rest of the evening to reading and learning about steels and tools. On weekends go visit with a blacksmith or even a farrier that forges. We move steel in a lot of different ways. Watch and ask questions. Mostly watch. 

Beautiful. The table, not the fella...haha. I do see the Burt resemblance though.....

Dimmer switches can be hard on motors that aren't made for them. You might be better off running an air gate instead with a handle on it  instead 

Check farrier supply places. They carry all that stuff that you're looking for. Sometimes free shipping too 

I'd go buy a cheap toaster oven. Maybe even Craigslist or garage sale. Seems to me it would be a safer route. I think trying to maintain the proper oil temp is going to prove to be a challenge. 

Isn't A2 air hardened and tempered anywhere from 400-450 depending on what the use is for?

Sounds like a sweet quench tank to me! You could even make a small, long forge? There's possibilities for sure. Scoop them up! 

Awesome! I'm also making one. 4 1/4" thick. I have a 7/8" hole drilled in it now and then I'm going to drift it with 1" square. I bought some 4140 to drift it with. Probably going to get done this winter

Back in April I was doing some grinding with well fit safety glasses on. Well, a piece got through somehow and a very expensive doc bill later, I got new safety glasses. I ended up with 3m virtua ccs protective eyewear. They are foam lined. They fog up a bit with the humid weather here, but my eyes are pretty safe while forging and grinding. I deal with it. A grinding shield is in my very near future

For my hearing protection, I use Howard Leight electronic ear muffs. I can plug my phone into them and listen to music while forging or if I don't do that, I can hear people talk and they'll kill out the loud sounds when needed. I sometimes use foam plugs. Either works. 

At that low of a temperature it shouldn't matter? I feel a science experiment is coming on soon... Would it stay warm enough for long enough to get a proper temper would be my question. 

4 1/2" angle grinder, 2lb rounding hammer and and wolf jaw tongs. 

Glenn found this video for another post and I thought it could be useful for you. 

Oh I'm glad you found that one Glenn. That makes a lot of sense about heights of the anvil. And I do, at times, find myself very up close to the steel doing that fine work. I've also learned being that close has a major downside. If that hot steel for some reason wants to jump up out of the tongs, it stings the face pretty good. Usually happens at that black heat when it should be in the fire....

Emerson anvils are great. I had a 100lb years back. I like to put some radius on some edges, but sometimes you need that sharp edge, so maybe just barely take it off so it doesn't chip as bad if you miss. As far as treating it, never have. The more use, the less rust will occur. 

It's hard to explain this through typing. Always easier shown. Keeping your work inline and in front of, you'll get the most out of your hammer swing. The hammer doesn't get in the way of seeing your work. It's not hiding the steel.

As far as keeping your elbow out, you're going to work your shoulder a heck of a lot harder. My shoulder let's me know when my swing is wrong. It's not keeping it super tight to you, but more in line.

Anvil height. A very discussed topic. A very high anvil will also blow out your arm. Happen to a friend of mine, but hers was super high. I tend to keep mine a bit low. Bend the knees and focus on posture. With a lower anvil, I can get a longer hit, that is a lot harder while whipping the hammer  handle in my hand. 

These are things that work for me. I'm just a crippled up farrier though. Haha. These are things I've seen and talked about with world champion farriers that forge on a daily basis. Obviously,  if your way works for you, keep on at it. I've always just wondered why a blacksmith swings different than a farrier

3 minutes ago, jeremy k said:

Glenn - you have to take into account the perspective view of the picture as he is away from the anvil a bit, and the picture is taken looking slightly downward - my guess is it's higher than you think.

When I was at Roy's shop, his anvil is pretty much at the end of his knuckles. 

I agree Glenn. I do find myself putting my thumb on top when I'm doing light, detailed blows. Other than that, it's just off the top

I actually found it. Haha. Roy is an amazing farrier, blacksmith and tool maker. 

I think a longer handle is better. Somewhere in the 16-18" range. If I really need to get after something, I like to have the length to get a lot of whip. Maybe it's the farrier in me. Not sure. I do see a lot of blacksmiths with short handles and the swing looks like it will cause joint damage in the future. My opinion. I also would shape the handle. Make it skinnier. That way your not "gripping" the hammer. I was told by Roy Bloom, that when I'm swinging, hard or soft, someone should be able to come and grab that hammer out of your hand. I'm sure I could dig up a video on you tube of him explaining that too

Thanks guys. I know there's some jokesters on here, I think that's why I stay around. Lol. Very entertaining and educational. I've made some stuff, but nothing crazy. Maybe when I read how to post pictures on here I'll post some stuff up.