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I Forge Iron

Hotshoein4 (Mark)

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Posts posted by Hotshoein4 (Mark)

  1.  

     

    Knowing nothing about farrier work, I suppose work hardening could be a problem?

    I've never found work hardening to be a problem with any horseshoe makers. 

    Yes it sounds easy to just put a crease in the shoe then punch and pritchel the nail holes, but no, it's not. Even just half a shoe. You want it to look right and not messed up. The client might not know, but I certainly do and wouldn't let garbage be sold or even given away. Anytime my clients want stuff made from shoes, I say no, factory shoes aren't cool, I'll just hand make it. They like that. 

    So if you do want to just make half a shoe and a blade, I would suggest getting the proper tools and knowledge yo do so. I think doing it out of 1084 or something simular would be a great idea. Practice on mild steel though. It'll take time to learn it.

  2. If you had your oven set at 450°, you think it looks like 440°. Ok, close, but how will an oven set at 450° get something to the 540° range? Even on thin parts. Isn't that why we use ovens. Set it and forget it?

  3. Sounds like you did more of a normalizing cycle. Bring it to critical temp then try slowly cooling. I usually use barn lime in a metal bucket. It's cheap and easy to find for me. Let it cool completely. 

  4. No upgrades. It's going on a 1/2hp baldor buffer. It should have plenty of power and the bearings are usually great in those machines. I shouldn't have been so vague. It's going to be a scotch-brite wheel. 4" wide 6" diameter, so pretty light and easy to turn. It should be easier to turn than a 6" expander wheel and mutli tool attachment that is already on it. Going to pull 1 side off.

  5. I've looked and looked and can't find what I'm looking for. Where can I find thread extensions for my bench grinder. I'd like to be able to run a 4" wide wheel. All I can find is the shaft extension, but that won't allow the use of a wide wheel,  just makes the work piece farther from the grinder which is also handy. Any ideas?

    Thanks

    Mark

  6. Did you anneal the axle part your hitting or are you going to leave it hardened? And do what Jeremy K says, dome the top. Also, do slightly radius the edges on the bottom so you won't leave as many marks in your steel. Great idea by the way. Thanks for sharing

     

    Mark

  7. I personally like the Scott tapered heel anvil. I own a 100lb now and can forge big stuff on it. It's a solid little anvil. I've also owned a 100lb square heel Emerson. It was also a great anvil. I just prefer the Scott with the tapered heel now. And with the Scott being compact and chunky, it doesn't give off that nasty ear piercing ring. I also put a magnet under the hardy hole to stop all ring. The magnet on the Emerson works too to stop the ring

  8. Don't feel it necessary to start a new thread, so I'm going to add my latest pickup here. Any ideas in this one? There seems to be such a lack of info on vises. I'd like to just learn more about them. Thanks for all the intense information on this forum. I've learned a lot and confused myself a lot too. Haha. 

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  9. I melted my copper wire that way. I made a "crucible" out of mild steel, then made a mild steel mold. One thing that I was told, put borax in the crucible to help drive out impurities. I scraped the "junk" off the top before my pour. Then the mold, light a candle and coat the mold in the soot from the candle. It helps it from sticking and will come out easier. Hope that helps some. 

  10. I poured it into a mild to make a billet. It was about 16" long, 1 1/4" wide and 1"thick. Abouts. I also included another picture of what happens when you work it cold. Kind of a neat grain structure. It likes to be hot and loses heat quick. A lot of heats and not many blows. It's time consuming, but awesome when you figure it out. It likes to crack and split. Keep it hot. Red. I couldn't find much on the internet about it, so I figured it out on my own. Lots of failures. Haha

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