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I Forge Iron

Judson Yaggy

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Everything posted by Judson Yaggy

  1. Try wedge washers, supposedly for extreme vibration. http://www.mcmaster....washers/=ef3w25 They call them wedge lock washers here.
  2. Hmm, now I can't edit my original posts to get rid of the redundant wording. Also can't edit the tags, so on the previous page it looks like this is all about tools. Advise anyone? Thanks.
  3. Thanks everyone for the responses. I guess I set up all of my original posts in a way that the administrators didn't like as they have combined them all into one. Sorry about the repetitious wording, I thought that I was doing everyone a favor by sorting the threads/photos by subject especially given the oddities of the search function here. When I have a little more time I'll edit out the redundancies now that they lumped it all together.
  4. Frank- I specifially asked about that book at their book store. The people running the store hadn't even heard about it, and when they asked one of the upper managers I was told it's out of print. Too bad.
  5. The Shelburne Museum in Shelburne, Vermont has a huge collection of ironwork. They have a decent 19th century functioning blacksmith shop, and a massive collection of tools (both blacksmithing tools and forged tools made for other trades), hinges and door hardware, multiple large barns full of sleigh, carriage and horse related ironwork, home and hearth related pieces, and other metal of interest such as a water powered saw mill and a very large side paddle steamer. I'm not affiliated with the museum, but I took some visiting family there last weekend and snapped several hundred photos.http://shelburnemuseum.org/ These are not replicas, everything there is an actual artifact. I was a little disappointed in the way they are taking care of some of the items, definitely some rust starting in on a lot of stuff. Of course everyone knows that the history of technology is severely undervalued by the Liberal Arts folks who run a lot of museums. I tried to get something for scale in each picture, but didn't always succeed. The peg board seen in a lot of the pictures is a 1" grid. Also tried to get pictures of sides or backs, where forgewelds were, etc. I took so many pictures that I'll be breaking them up into related groups. These are the carriages, sleighs, horse tack and fittings, a few HUGE shoes and the meanest bit I've ever seen. Almost looks like a chain saw chain.
  6. The Shelburne Museum in Shelburne, Vermont has a huge collection of ironwork. They have a decent 19th century functioning blacksmith shop, and a massive collection of tools (both blacksmithing tools and forged tools made for other trades), hinges and door hardware, multiple large barns full of sleigh, carriage and horse related ironwork, home and hearth related pieces, and other metal of interest such as a water powered saw mill and a very large side paddle steamer. I'm not affiliated with the museum, but I took some visiting family there last weekend and snapped several hundred photos.http://shelburnemuseum.org/ These are not replicas, everything there is an actual artifact. I was a little disappointed in the way they are taking care of some of the items, definitely some rust starting in on a lot of stuff. Of course everyone knows that the history of technology is severely undervalued by the Liberal Arts folks who run a lot of museums. I tried to get something for scale in each picture, but didn't always succeed. The peg board seen in a lot of the pictures is a 1" grid. Also tried to get pictures of sides or backs, where forgewelds were, etc. I took so many pictures that I'll be breaking them up into related groups. These are hearth and home good items. Suprisingly few andirons, unless I missed them which is a possibility given the volume of this collection. The thing that looks like a mini workshop is a tin toy, they have a good collection of kid's toys too.
  7. The Shelburne Museum in Shelburne, Vermont has a huge collection of ironwork. They have a decent 19th century functioning blacksmith shop, and a massive collection of tools (both blacksmithing tools and forged tools made for other trades), hinges and door hardware, multiple large barns full of sleigh, carriage and horse related ironwork, home and hearth related pieces, and other metal of interest such as a water powered saw mill and a very large side paddle steamer. I'm not affiliated with the museum, but I took some visiting family there last weekend and snapped several hundred photos.http://shelburnemuseum.org/ These are not replicas, everything there is an actual artifact. I was a little disappointed in the way they are taking care of some of the items, definitely some rust starting in on a lot of stuff. Of course everyone knows that the history of technology is severely undervalued by the Liberal Arts folks who run a lot of museums. I tried to get something for scale in each picture, but didn't always succeed. The peg board seen in a lot of the pictures is a 1" grid. Also tried to get pictures of sides or backs, where forgewelds were, etc. I took so many pictures that I'll be breaking them up into related groups. These are some of the handles and locks.
  8. The Shelburne Museum in Shelburne, Vermont has a huge collection of ironwork. They have a decent 19th century functioning blacksmith shop, and a massive collection of tools (both blacksmithing tools and forged tools made for other trades), hinges and door hardware, multiple large barns full of sleigh, carriage and horse related ironwork, home and hearth related pieces, and other metal of interest such as a water powered saw mill and a very large side paddle steamer. I'm not affiliated with the museum, but I took some visiting family there last weekend and snapped several hundred photos.http://shelburnemuseum.org/ These are not replicas, everything there is an actual artifact. I was a little disappointed in the way they are taking care of some of the items, definitely some rust starting in on a lot of stuff. Of course everyone knows that the history of technology is severely undervalued by the Liberal Arts folks who run a lot of museums. I tried to get something for scale in each picture, but didn't always succeed. The peg board seen in a lot of the pictures is a 1" grid. Also tried to get pictures of sides or backs, where forgewelds were, etc. I took so many pictures that I'll be breaking them up into related groups. These are of some of the hinges they have. Some are inside, some are still functional on the buildings.
  9. In the interest of giving more ways to skin a cat, here's a bird that I do. 1/8" plate cut out flat, head dished from the inside out, body rolled in, tail flattened and textured, beak drawn out. Might well scale up to what you are after, play with the various dimensions of your flat blank for different shaped birds.
  10. I use beeswax/linseed oil/turpentine in equal measures as well. As a small time beekeeper I've never messed around with other waxes as the girls out in the hives make enough wax for my needs. Some tips for dealing with wax: To get a good mix, small chunks are best. Freeze your wax, then use a fine cheese grater to dice it up into bits that the solvent (turpentine, etc.) can dissolve quickly. Do not use your wife's good grater, or if you do don't tell her that it was my idea. Alternatively, melt the wax (FIRE HAZARD-use a double boiler) and pour the oil, then the turpentine into the mix. DO NOT do your mixing on the stovetop or near open flames. This stuff is for inside use only. For outside work, sandblast, then zinc primer, then primer, then 2 coats finish, then highlight paint. If near an ocean hot dip galvanize then primer, etc.
  11. We paid $4k for our excellent condition Dupont model E (the exact same as a Fairbanks) but it included the motor, a great heavy duty jackshaft/pulley assembly, and belts. It was also reasonably local, just a long day trip to pick it up, so little shipping cost. Plug and play (after the foundation cured), I feel it was well worth $4000. Don't think I'd go to $6500 as a professional smith for the same reason Southshore mentioned, but for a serious hobbiest looking for crown jewels, well, guys spend more than that on vintage cars and motorcycles every day.
  12. That one's in good shape. That's Southshoresmith selling it if I'm not mistaken. I'm sure some folks will chime in with shocked disbelief about the price, but these things are really rare and probably undervalued for what they are. I'd pay $1500 for a mint large rare anvil if I needed one knowing that I could resell it for par or better, that vise is also in the large, rare, and useful category. Anyone else have pics of these things that they would share?
  13. Hi Ralph! Good stuff, glad to see you on here again. Welcome.
  14. If in good condition those extra dies are in my opinion worth half the price of whatever you paid for the hammer. Learn to swap them out early and often and that hammer will will be way more versatile and able to make you more money than the way most folks run their mechanical hammers. That guard looks like those inspired by the Clifton Ralpf design- did the former owner do the other Clifton mods to the spring and arms? If so you scored!
  15. Good stuff Jeff- Do you tune saws? Care to share the how and why of those home made rigs? Most of the saw mills around here have gone to big band saws, but there are still a few big circular saw mills around, someone must be taking care of the blades somehow. Are they just brazing on new carbides these days? I knew an old timer who was a sharpening expert, while chatting with him one day he outlined pretty much the same info that Frank mentioned above. He said that they would put a "dish" in circular saw blades. Reasoning was that as the saw spun up to speed the outer diameter would stretch, so the outer diameter of a pre dished blade would stretch out the dish into an even plane and the blade would run true. No dish equals warp/wobble in the cutting edge of the blade. Kudos to Frank for sharing that info first, but as he said he and I both have heresy evidence. Anyone out there ever actually hammered a saw blade on an anvil?
  16. Just for laughs you should ask a structural engineer about your problem, please let us know what color he turns/if she starts to shake/how many times they say "no no no no" then go ahead and do it given the above advice about shoring, mass, location, etc. I built timberframe buildings for years, so try this on the beams to check for rot or failure. Bring a hammer and a thin bladed knife next time you visit. Bounce the hammer off each beam about each foot or so. There should be a little bounce to the blow, and it should give a very faintly resonant sound. "Punky" wood is onamonapeic, rotten wood will sound like it (or the hammer will just sink in and give no sound at all). The thin knife is for when you think you have found a soft spot- do a penetration test. If it sinks in a long way, red flag. A lot of old mill buildings had Doug Fir beams, and DF is the standard for large beam structural calculations. If your potential building has fir beams, you can find structural specs and static load calcuations fairly easily online. 'Course a 2b has all kinds of odd dynamic loading, sounds scary to me, you'd better trade someone your 2b for a press or something with a static load. Come to think of it, I'll trade you my press for it, I've got a slab on grade shop, so you can sleep soundly at night knowing that my floor won't fall in .
  17. Seems like these pop up every now and then but there doesn't seem to be a dedicated thread to them, so let's start one. Sawmaker's or saw tuner's anvils- lets see your photos. Descriptions, dimensions, makers, uses. Are they more rare than your "average" anvil? I recall seeing a link to a website for a company still making them, anyone remember the link? Also, njanvilman says he is looking for ones made by Fisher, so perhaps we can help him spot ones for the museum. So here's what I think is a sawmaker's anvil that I have. Top is 7.5" x 7.5" x 3.5", weight approx. 100#. No markings visible, maker unknown. Face is as hard as any anvil I've ever owned, a (new, quality) file just skids across like glass. I use it as an upsetting block on the floor and as a backing-up mass for odd riveting and setting tennons.
  18. Looks like a modern made anvil to me. Just like this- http://www.oldworldanvils.com/anvils/workhorse.html
  19. Good score. Please post pics, I'm really curious about the mechanism at the pivot.
  20. Anyone ever seen a vise like this? Note the pivot- adjustable? Sorry for the bad pic, not mine.
  21. No, not a typo. Not sure of the variety, but especially in the wetter areas and if I don't mow or brush hog for a year or two, the grass gets shockingly tall for a month or two. We get a LOT of rain- if we didn't have winters with periods of -20 deg. F, I shudder to think of how overrun with vegetation we would be. One old pasture I remember walking in as a child is now covered in 4" diameter new growth sugar maple, and I'm in my mid 30's. Maple isn't known for being fast growing (just the opposite) but Vermont is the poster child for micro climates.
  22. I hand mow quite a bit. Our property is 200 year old cow pasture on fertile valley riverbottom, so the grass gets upwards of 7 feet tall by early July. I use a traditional American recurved snath and 2 different blades, a long thin "grass" blade for the easy stuff, and a shorter, wider more curved brush blade for the more stemmy stuff like thistles and goldenrod and that accursed godawful #$%@&* wild parsnip. The snaths were made locally out of steam bent Vermont white ash by what I believe was one of the last American manufacturers, Derb & Ball of Waterbury, VT. My parents recall them going out of business sometime in the 1970's. I find it to be a good workout and definitely faster than using a weed eater once you get proficient. Plus no spray of green mush and no fumes to breathe. Like any physical skill it takes some practice to get good at it, I had to mess around with handle position on the snath and my body mechanics and the blade angle relative to the ground for a while till I found what worked for me. I imagine the variables are different for everyone. There are a good number of youtube vids of people hand mowing. I buy an occasional stone and other supplies from these folks- http://www.scythesupply.com/
  23. I'm curious about the odd looking power hammer, not the Star or whatever it is, but the one with the offset anvil. The clutch and linkage look factory, but the rest home made? An old sheet metal hammer? If you had any other observations of it please share! Thanks.
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