Mark Ling
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Posts posted by Mark Ling
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If you don't have an anvil, and cant use the horn , than use a RADIUSED EDGE on some kind of steel block or sledge hammer head. if you use a sharp corner than you run the risk of creating a cold shut which will create a weak spot in the reins and it will eventually break. like someone said above use the horn of the anvil like a fuller to draw it out. If you don't have anything that I said above than you can use a cross/straight peen hammer to draw out the reins. now I have a quick question about drawing out steel on the horn, which is better, the fatter/wider part of the horn or the narrower/smaller part of the horn?
Littleblacksmith
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wow, you make some really nice knives. be sure to update us with some pictures once you finish them, il'l be interested to see the finished piece.
Littleblacksmith
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that's a really neat idea! nicely made.
Littleblacksmith
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On 2/18/2016 at 1:00 PM, gearhartironwerks said:
do you remember what you made it out of?
Littleblacksmith
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that's a really nice/interesting pattern. I like it!
Littleblacksmith
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wow! that's a great deal. could we see a picture of the hammers and swages, thanks for sharing.
Littleblacksmith
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hopefully ill be able to go, sounds like a fun time.
Littleblacksmith
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or instead of putting it in the hardy hole you could weld on a piece of steel on to were it broke of and use it in a vice.
Littleblacksmith
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14 pounds! wow!
Littleblacksmith
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5 minutes ago, Depuuty said:
Well boys.. I was told it would not be the best material using rebar, but the anvil did hold up and I believe it will for a little while..
First knife and probably as far as I'll sand this one
didn't flatten it out enough for a handle
so I'll just learn from this and go on to the next knife
hey it looks better than my first railroad spike "knife" trust me thought they only get better
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On 2/27/2016 at 6:57 PM, matto said:
I think he is from Indiana that is still in the United States. We know Texas has a hard time remembering that do to they have always wanted and tried to be their own country.
whooooops, sorry for my misunderstanding, I didn't know that they taught Texas history up north! glad to hear that yall cornhuskers know something about us.
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did you anneal it before heat treating? if not that might have helped. it can't and won't resolve all problems but it does relive some of the stress in the blade.
Littleblacksmith
annealing is a heat treatment
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was that a gas forge I heard in the background that you were using? if so that's an impressive gas forge to be able to bring that mass of steel up to forge welding temp.
Littleblacksmith
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ok thanks, was just wondering.
Littleblacksmith
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On 2/22/2016 at 11:22 AM, Reversepolarity said:
did you just coat it in oil as a finish? looks really nice!
Littleblacksmith
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so your in india, but you used an American quarter to compare your anvil to. you may want you make the base of your anvil not stick out so much so that you can get closer to your anvil. my old anvil stand, the base was made out of a really big disc plow head and I remember how annoying it was to be so far away from my anvil. just a thought, try it out and see how it works. If you don't like it than change it.
Littleblacksmith
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17 hours ago, jjhend28 said:
Wow, thanks for that link. Sounds like I might have stumbled onto a good deal. I'm for sure picking it up in the morning! Thanks for your help!
let us know how it turns out, pics would be great! congratulations on the anvil and for starting into the craft of blacksmithing!
Littleblacksmith
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sounds like you got a pretty good deal at the estate sale! good job for saving an anvil
Littleblacksmith
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I've always wondered how it would be, to forge with a dogs head hammer. I cant stand using ball peen hammers cause they aren't evenly balanced especially the bigger ones, so I probably wouldn't enjoy using a dog head hammer. though very nicely made hammers.
Littleblacksmith
nothing wrong with your anvil, the londen pattern anvil has only been around for about 200 years. before that many smiths used ones that probably looked very similar to your chunk of steel. if this helps, I started out using a 10 pound sledge hammer head, than I used a "railroad plate" (not sure if that's what its called), then I borrowed an anvil, then I used a piece of railroad track, and then I finally found a 100 pound Trenton anvil.if it works for you than it works just fine.
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look for crow bars, coil springs, leaf springs, old chisels and punches, lawnmower blades, old files, saw blades, all of those are great carbon steels, but you may want to do a spark test on some of them just in case. also look for any usable round stock square, flat, etc. I always come back from the scrap yard with something I wouldn't expect to find there, so just keep your eyes open. this will be a very fun and rewarding hobby.
Littleblacksmith
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who made it? is it a hundred pounder? how much did it cost? if you don't mind me asking.
Littleblacksmith
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make sure not to have your steel right over where the air enters, or else it will oxidize and you wont be able to weld. mound up the charcoal, so that it uses the excess oxygen and keeps in the heat.
Littleblacksmith
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yes, it took a little time (more like 41/2 hours) to forge it. John Rigoni (sorry if I spelled it wrong
) does some really clean work. I watched him forge the same axe at steep hollow forge works in Bryan Texas.
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cut of a piece of one of 'em of, beat on it, normalize it, quench it in oil- if that doesn't work, than quech it in water. if it doesn't hardin than just use it how you would mild steel.
Littleblacksmith
First forge
in Solid Fuel Forges
Posted
heat up a small piece of the rasps and quench it to see if it hardens, if so than it would probably be good-most of the older files are good steel, also the newer ones.
Littleblacksmith