D.C.

Just my 2¢, I use a single frosty t burner at 7000 feet in Wyoming in a similar sized forge as your looking to build. It was pretty simple to tune, and I get welding heat

Looks good! How did you temper? And what color/temp did you bring the faces to?

Dang..Johnny Carson references! That's old school.

Right-hand: post some more pics please. The clearer the better. There's lots of info on Soderfors if you search, but pics are nice for posterity.

Your in my mine and my families thoughts. Hoping for a trouble free recovery ;-)

So I ended up with 6' of 1.75" stainless. I have ZERO experience with this stuff and couldn't even begin to figure it which type of stainless it is. It is pretty much non magnetic, heavy, and pretty hard. One end has a keyway milled in, so it was on equipment of some sort. It's also got surface rust on most of the shaft, but no pitting.

Anyway..looking for ideas as to what I should use this for. Hammers maybe? Is there any real need for stainless hammers? Help me out :-\

Those hammers Look pretty good from this angle!

Your smaller hammer has more of a radius on the edge than i personally prefer, but we all have our own style.

If you feel your new hammer is too sharp, slowly increase the radius until you are happy. Not super helpful I know, but the details of our tools should be about our technique and style.

The correct procedure for repairing anvils has been well discussed on this site.

Simply put, proper repair involves FAR more than most people are capable of doing. Even experienced welders. Do a search on this forum for the Gunter Method.

Thinking you can do MOST of the steps and that is good enough will lead to unsatisfactory results such as ruined temper, reduced usability, and reduced value.

I am sorry I have no expertise to offer other than it does "look" like a Peter Wright..

Mainly I just wanted to say...beautiful..that is just beautiful

I'll second that JHCC....

I've passed on welded anvils in the past, because as you say Thomas, buyer beware. I was thinking long term. I would never want to withhold information if I was to ever sell this anvil. But, I would also hate for the repair to look identical to a bad repair done with incorrect rod.....hence the question about color.

I have no experience with anvils repaired in the RIGHT way. It sounds as though people with far more experience than me trust Gunter method IF PERFORMED CORRECTLY.

Thank you all for your input.

Frosty: Did you use Lincoln Excalibur brand rod by any chance? I was told Wearshield15CrMn = 2110, and Wearshield Mi = 1105

Picked these up Saturday. 105# Trenton...137# Mousehole....and a 927 Pexto stake. The stake is headed to an armourer I know. I guess carrying a ball bearing in my pocket is working! Better check that it's not actually an anvil magnet.

So I guess the next question is

Would YOU buy an anvil that had been repair properly, and tested out good?

Would it be worth more, or less than a chipped up but usable untouched anvil?

That is really good..and not just "for a beginner" good. Give us some details on Its construction!

Ok....so I know this is a very hot topic for many. I personally fall into the "anvils are a gift from God, don't defile them" camp.

However...I would like to hear from anyone who has PERSONALLY been involved with or observed an anvil repaired PROPERLY with Robb Gunters method.

My main questions are

1) Was the faceplate near the weld noticeably softer than the surrounding steel (logic says it has to be to some degree)

2) Does the Stoody rod blend with the rest of the face (unlike 7018 or other high nickel rods)

3) Were you satisfied with the results of the repair

4) (open to all opinions) When is this repair TRULY necessary. When does an anvil go from tool that should be utilised, to a collectors item the ought not be touched?

Here's a pic of the anvil that's leading me down this road. An otherwise beautiful Mousehole missing a valuable chunk of real estate.

FYI This is not my first anvil, this is not my only anvil...I technically do not need the hardy to be functional....but it pains me to see something not live up to its potential.

Beautiful work Gergely! I Like the flowers.

Well that certainly sounds like hardened steel to me!

Well done! Better than my first hammer. Now keep making more. Stopping after doing something once, well satisfying, is like being satisfied with your first step down a trail. If you stop there, you'll never see the destination! Every tool you make will teach you something, even your 50th hammer will be a learning experience.

Looks pretty good from here!  show us a shot of the eye. Did  you punch and drift our predrill?

Documenting the anvils I picked up on my trip. Here's the 135# Peter Wright. I am amazed how nice this one is for the age. It doesn't have the England stamp, so I'm figuring pre 1910. One edge looks COMPLETELY UNTOUCHED.  The "130" stamp is kinda odd, but people do strange things to their tools.

The trick isn't much of a trick. It's basically the TPAAAT. I spoke with people, who forwarded to me more people, who then gave my name to other people...who then called me. Seriously I spoke to at least 20 different people...none of whom sold me anything...before being contacted by 2 guys who heard I was looking to buy. The result:

Everything that's been listed plus today's haul consisting of

2 and a half Columbian leg vices

Another rivet forge

18" flat belt powered grinding wheel.

I'll get pics of everything when I get home tomorrow...wait..It's already tomorrow..whatever...more pics on the way

Your level of workmanship is amazing Das. Always such attention to detail, I don't think I've seen anything you've done that looked "rough". Well done

Those lizards are awesome Aus!

Yeah I feel pretty fortunate. I finally started trying to find tools as I travel and this is my biggest haul to date.

This evening I'm heading out to look at another rivet forge, some vises and blowers. Then back home to Wyoming!!

135# Peter Wright, 98# Peter Wright, 72# & 74#  Kohlswas. What's harder to see is the Canadian Blower company rivet forge with matching blower, a Thompson blower, and a champion 400. Plus some tongs!!!

Yes that is possible, however, all cast steel anvils that I know of were cast completely of a good grade of hardenable steel, with the face hardened and tempered. The "SOLID STEEL" construction was a selling point, as opposed to a laminated construction.