D.C.

Btw...pics are always welcome;-)

Colombians were first imported cast Swedish anvils just rebranded as Columbian....the later ones were also cast, but here in the states. As far as I know, all were solid steel, so no need for a plate.

Those look great...CONGRATS

That is hilarious! Creative marketing at its best.

Good catch Vain. Been a while since I've read it.

The Frosty t burner  is about as simple to build, understand, and tune as it gets.  The  standard 3/4"  build, as shown in his drawings will attain welding heat in a properly insulated forge very easily.  Do a Google search for "t-burner iforgeiron"  and you'll find the thread with the drawings and compete instructions.

I wear contact lenses...and was often VERY negligent when it came to eye protection. I usually would leave my lenses in for months at a time. I began to notice SEVERE fogging of my vision in one eye..So I removed my lenses to find one was ORANGE. Under a loupe I could see quite a few slivers of steel embedded in it and allot of rust. I was fortunate.

Lesson....CONTACT LENSES DO NOT COUNT AS EYE PROTECTION

Starting the stockpile of supplies for a power hammer build.

3' from the cut to the beginning of the threads. Weighed in at 297#...unfortunately it's not solid stock, but the inner diameter is pretty small so hopefully it's enough mass for an anvil.

The plate behind it is nearly the same weight, 1.5" thick. The sledge is an 8# for comparison.

Everyone starts out doing relatively poor work. There are VERY few true savants who immediately excel. That's life. But poor workmanship or work practices should NOT be praised. Instead, those doing that work SHOULD be encouraged to continue, learn, and grow.

But the attitude that you are totally independent, CAN reinvent the wheel, and refuse to listen to guidance because you prefer to think "outside the box" is ridiculous. Part of learning should always be learning from those who are more skilled. That attitude is allot of what you see on YouTube. "They say you can't make a good knife out of railroad spikes...BUT I CAN!".....yeah...

What Thomas is implying is that what most people imagine they need isn't really necessary. When You say you need an anvil, you're probably picturing a London pattern anvil. But realistically, all you NEED is a large piece of steel. Do research on "post anvils". I know bladesmiths who do the vast majority of their work on homemade post anvils such as an 80# piece of 6" round bar standing on end. Pieces like that can be found for dirt cheap at scrap yards or bought from metal fabrication or supply companies. Last week I picked up a 2"x3"x30" piece for 15$ from a surplus shop.

I'd post pictures, but my phone seems to be having issues

My question on the idea of closed die forging is how do they add handling holes on? Casting, it is simple. Built up construction, also simple. Would they punch them in?

Just throwing this out there. I know little of closed die technique. Possibly this points us toward one method of construction over the other.

I always understood they were cast, then stamped according to final destination/company. Mine is a Colombian, others are stamped paragon..etc. There is a distinct parting line/seam under the heel. I do suppose that could have been from a closed die forging.

I see the pics of one with raised markings, but I've personally never seen one. And I can easily imagine a change in marking  style if they replaced the molds.

In any case, my anvil, and all other examples I've seen from that era (1920s) show every sign if being one piece solid steel  construction, whether cast or forged in a closed die. 

Beautiful...It's also marked with the Dannemora stamp. That generation of Soderfors were definitely cast steel. Amazing rebound. I have your anvils big brother.

Just wanted to chime in on the versatility of this burner. Frosty..your a genius. I work at 7000 feet elevation. With the thin air we have, we have to rejet carbs, it takes more heat too boil water, and FORGET about the idea of a naturally aspirated burner that you could forge weld with. At least that is what I was told.

But I'm stubborn. So I built a propane tank forge, 2" kaowool, and used hard fire brick for the floor. Then built a 3/4 t-burner. I followed Frostys instructions closely. Had to try 3 current mig tips. But very quickly I had a forge that will weld 1/2 mild rod within 10 minutes of first light...in -15 Fahrenheit.

Follow the directions, build an efficient forge, don't use hard firebrick(waiting fit the good stuff), and be patient. That burner design is versatile, simple, and cheap. Thanks again Frosty

THAT..IS..AWESOME. The detail on the feet of the anvil...let alone the vise! Does anyone have any info on this thing?

I had to look close at the forge bowl..a rail spike clinker breaker? Cool idea. How well has it been working for you?

That anvil will work, and when you get/buy/find a more solid anvil you will have a real appreciation for good rebound. I started on a 4 foot rail standing on end. Thought it was better than any anvil could ever be....until I tried other anvil styles. Still,I got a LOT of experience using that rail.

I always feel a little guilty about the time I spend on my OWN tools..so they tend to end up a little plain. But the tools I make for others or for sale I can't help but embellish a little bit. Just some chisel work, some detail in the handle...I think something hand made needs more than just hammer marks.

Everything we make IS advertising our ability/skill. And hopefully will show improvement in a myriad of small ways over time.

+1 for Swedish Soderfors superiority. I just sold a heavier Peter Wright because I prefer my Sweet Swede for forging....and it was only 2# heavier =)

I like how you left the forged, scale pocked finish. It adds tons of character. Excellent quality as always!

Farm progress and agribition. I go to most of the large farm shows in Canada to demo tire changing tools.

There's tons of information on the net....and lots of it is worth EXACTLY what your paying for it......Nothing.  I've watched videos of people milling off the entire face plate of an anvil and calling it a"successful restoration/resurfacing".

Realistically you need to think of an anvils top plate as being like a fine knife blade. Like a blade it's been hardened and heat treated. Welding creates a heat affected zone all around the weld...removing the tempered hardness. After welding you end up with beautiful crisp corners (that you will need to round off) and an edge that dents easily and has FAR less rebound...you may even notice reduced rebound across the whole FACE. Ask me how I know =)

The anvil I "restored" still works, but I personally noticed all the problems I mentioned very quickly. The advice being given isn't coming from a collectors point of view, but rather from long experience.

I make that trip from southern Wyoming several times a year! Always enter Canada through Portal, North Dakota and head up through Estevan to Regina. Maybe I'll have to incorporate anvil shopping into my trips!

Honestly,I think there are a lot of us that have spent spent inordinate amounts of time soaking up the good information found here on IForgeIron...advice and experience given by VERY experienced smiths and work posted by extremely talented artisans. It is an intimidating knowledge base. So it's not too surprising that many of us keep quiet. When questions are asked, we wait to see if an expert chimes in first.

That is something that probably needs to change. Wrong information is quickly corrected here, and as we learn, we all should be prepared to BE corrected. We can all contribute content, reviews of our tools, documentation of or work and research, and by asking questions. Hopefully many will read this thread and see it as motivation to be more involved. It is vital if we want Glenn to keep this forum open to us.

That one looks like a Vulcan....but I'm not really that experienced with identifying them. I've seen some Badgers that fooled me. Either way, it's a lower quality cast body anvil. Probably Not an ASO, but you'd definitely want to test it to make sure it has good rebound before buying. Certainly not as good as a Fisher, but better then nothing.

Congrats Theo! Glad to see more of our members represent on that show. Speaking of, is Frank Christensen still active on the site? I know he endorses it in person and sends people here.