fergy
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Posts posted by fergy
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Ok and they are used to strech metal?
And as in a diagonal pein it don't even have to be round ?
I will find vid cheers
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So that's a rounding hammer and the face is called a pein ?
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Is the function of the spring primarily as a link and secondary as a spring ?
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Beautiful hammer though I prefer a little less dome to the pein. Still, I wouldn't kick it out of the shop, I'd put my own handle on it but I'd use it hard before modifying anything.
frosty this stupid software won't let me quote you in this thread but it will in others. Go figure
Less dome in the pein ?
That makes my normal ball pein hammers look like chipping hammers
what is a pain used for?
anyone got a YouTube link to a good vid on this ?
Yes I'm a noob. no I don't care
Fergy
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A few good fires under it before cooking on it I think
does look a whole lot better than a square of 5/16 plate
a plate that thick will take a bit of gettin used too but once you do you will never go back
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forbidden
wow
your first post and forbidden already
keep trying general and remember we like pics too
fergy
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Won't the spring deflect and move the small connecting arm at the back out?
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This is going nowhere fast
the way you read what another has typed May not be the way it was meant to come across
directed at no one but please let's not start a slinging match
fergy
oh and flame away (I can handle it)
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yes it would do more. Im not sure how much more, but I believe you would get the most whip that way. But it would still be putting a lot of strain in one point of the spring,and I'm sure no one wants that much whip. Was just thinking if the ram was in the center it evens out the strain on the spring. And you control the whip by adding leaves ( is that even the right word) to the spring.
Dont get me wrong I love the hammer and it does work as is was just wondering if the spring is actually needed? Or if it can be used a little better? Or the engineering improved on? Can't hurt to talk about it at least. :-)
Either way looks like a sweet hammer rheis, can't wait to see it working.
I aked the question to get you thinking about it. job done
Im guessing the spring is there to take the shock out?
this will be the style of hammer I build if I ever build one so the more discussion the better IMHO
fergy
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What sort of bull dozer?
that looks to be a rather small pitch for track chain
was it from the reductinon before the bullgear or something
I can't place it it must be old
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hey guys have a question about this style of hammer
the spring dont really do nothing with the ram so close to the head.
in which case is it correct to beleive a air ram set op like these dont really need a spring?
and what are people thoughts on a plastic bush instead of brass? when i say plastic i mean that uhmc or what ever its called.
there is always the other end of the spring in the equation to consider
if you mounted it that close to the other end would you consider it to do more?
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Do you have these cylinders already ?
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Can you noob cad it?
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Track recoil springs on excavators are where it's at
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Not sure that it is weld although it is a different colour
looks toke the hammer was used with foreign material me tween the hammer and bottom die block
maybe the bottom die block was moving around in use and that resulted in the uneven surface
I slotted would work but there does seem to be some angle on the bottom block
if concerned I would file the surface and look at putting an angle on the die and then wedge in
have you ran it how it is ? You could just clean it up with a file and try it also
I also know nothing about hammers so these are just ideas
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It's a pity a shop with the tools to make a power hammer doesn't have a good spray booth
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EDM
would be my choice to
all sizes and shapes
Do you mean hard metals like steel and cast iron as opposed to soft metals like copper and aluminium?
In the UK Presto or Dormer make good quality high speed steel drills in sets which will cope with most mild and stainless steels and all of the soft non ferrous metals. Don't buy the cheap TiN coated sets, however many bits they contain.
Forty years ago I bought a set of imperial and later a set of metric. Still going strong like Grandad's axe...five new handles and two new heads
. ...... I then buy replacements in boxes of tens to restock the "working set".If you are looking to drill harder materials I would buy as required for the specific material and project....a full set of cobalt or solid carbide would be fairly costly.
The most important thing to do though is learn how to sharpen them. Seconds to do...minutes to learn... and hours saved... using sharp drills. You can even modify the angles to suit the material.
Alan
solid advise right here ^^^^^^^^^
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Thunder monkey forge
scottiron?
forgeit
thunderwerx. Sorry Vaughan
No stop press I got it
the name of all time
the one that every one here will understand
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.FORBIDDEN FORGE
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look like CAT ripper retaining pins
do they have what looks like a large circlip grove about 1/2 from one end?
http://www.groundengagingtools.net.au/product/caterpillar-ripper-pin/
http://catalog.romacparts.com/viewitems/caterpillar-/caterpillar-pins?
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Gantry crane no need to have acres of room around a job to be able to get a fork in
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It does say max percentage Steve
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Very nice work
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Semi drums don't make good tool stands either.
Frosty The Lucky.
that there is something I have been trying to tell people for years
Long awaited Bailey tools
in Tools, general discussion
Posted
Thanks looks like I just found a new youtube channel
Are some threads more prone to forbiddens than others?