fergy

Oh and here I was thinking when you made a leaf spring knife you had to cut it down first 

On ‎23‎/‎12‎/‎2015 at 10:36 AM, Charles R. Stevens said:

Find a licensed electrician willing to work with you then. Often a "side job" where they get to provide "expert supervision" and make the important/tricky connections is a welcome change. Certainly avoids the potential for fire and electrocution at worst, and letting the smoke out of your shop tools at best

23 hours ago, arkie said:

Jacob, I concur with the others 110% who have recommended getting a licensed electrician to do the electrical work.  You can dig the trenches, cut holes in the walls, anything else non-electric, but leave the wiring to the pros.

I just had 220 wiring run to my shop, about 120 feet run.  I had previously installed my breaker box (I have some experience in wiring, so I knew what I needed) and receptacles.  I had PVC conduit on hand, cement, etc. to do the job.  All that saved a little on labor and material.  I used a licensed electrician to do the wiring, install correct breakers, connect to my main panel, testing and anything else electrical that was needed.  With that done, I slept well at night and knew that any damage would be covered by insurance should a problem occur.

this is the way I would do it

you will find that most sparky's are more than happy to come out and have a look at what you want to do

make sure you can tell them what you would like to run in your shed and they will let you know your best option

just make sure you let them know that you would like to do the grunt work before you call them out

I like it but for some reason I like it more when the bottom long piece points right 

But then again that's just me 

haha only just seen the leaf 

make it movable please everyone

How do you know what pressure it is reaching?

Pic of your valve would help 

does it have an Allen key in it?

Try the bottle opener thread 

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/3602-thomas-powers-applied-anvil-acquisition-technique/

this is as close as it gets

that would be biggundoctor I think he or his dad had some cut out but I think they were one piece

that's what they are called here but apparently everywhere else they are called a hand spear

according to google this is a common name for a pet

maybe if I had a cat

you can get the rubber at any good fishing shop

fashion the ends of the ging like this

and use something like this to attach the patch

and fasten with a wrap and knot of cord

Could you not just use form ply and then just let it rott ?

Our septic tanks here are only 5' round yours may be different 

Aerates the ferric acid 

seems to make it work better 

ferric acid is also used to clean up profile cut pieces and is reported to work better when aerated 

I suppose it moves the liquid around 

Wow for some reason I keep thinking "Guy Fawkes" 

but then I remember back when I was 14 and built a sorta lean too for my push bikes 

probably looked like that but I have fonder memories of it 

please keep us posted would like to see it finished and some nice work coming out of it 

fergy

Ausfire use cast rods when welding cast to steel 

daswulf you had some scanners that were just all flat like they were punched outta plate ,do you think that you could make them look like the drop forged ones easily 

Went looking and found this 

http://www.foxnews.com/health/2013/03/11/study-says-treat-burn-with-warm-water-not-cold.html

not getting into the argument was only looking for  heat transfer rates for water and found this article 

Glad I'm not a rat though

On 21 November 2015 6:46:53 am, ausfire said:

 

dbrown: Great slingshots. That's my next one. (Not blacksmith related, but how do you fashion the business part of the slingshot - rubber tubing, leather patch??) I want the complete article. Could be handy against pesky Indian mynahs that invade our garden from time to time.

 

If you forge balls on the end you can use jelly rubber like used on gidgies 

then use a piece of cord on the other end tied through a bead to attach your patch 

because the jelly rubber is hollow you push it over the bead/balls and secure it with another piece of cord like a hose clamp

normally using a leather patch about the size of a belt buckle ( not a Texas one) to hold your shot 

Nice work

i come across like 1 of them old spanners a  year. Where do you find all those?

are the handles cast?

those crosses look awesome ausfire

sounds like you just threw a challenge out there regarding getting a metre out of a spike

pics or it didn't happen please people

those two crosses on the right have really kept there patina and look great

fergy

Yeah ausfire that would be good. Things are going well here but all doom and gloom up in Perth and up north at the moment on the work front 

Please link the build thread for the anvil you just treated 

fergy

That is such a nice piece 

nothing overlooked and lines that just flow 

the detail is amazing in every way 

a true WORK of art 

it would be a shame to see it leave the shed, one must get attached to a piece like this 

Well if it's just starting to grow, I would be watchful. I hear the way things go, the higher the post count, the more glorious the neck beard...

a gem from Exo313 

Cracked me up but so true 

No one mention SS 

Daniel from WA here just found the roll call 

Universal column 

thicker and heavyer than universal beam to get some mass under the anvil 

also normally found easy at the scrappy 

I would get the base machined flat

and then  drill it and tap it and put two or three large (1") studs into it

I would then find some UC and weld a base plate and top plate to the UC after working out what height you want it

then the anvil can be bolted to the UC and the UC to the floor

and then tool holders can be welded to the UC

Spotted this on flee bay looking for an anvil 

is anyone going to own up to having one?

1924 Russian silver 50 kopeks