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brian.pierson

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Posts posted by brian.pierson


  1. Check with Ft. York and Ft. George. Saw something at Ft. York in the late 1980's that was slightly different than Muller's drawings of 1757. Mine is a Muller/British traveling forge. I am not sure what and when the Brits started to change. American's were supposed to have gone to French pattern artillery around 1800-1810. The French pattern forge is supposed to be a four wheel set up, basically a wagon frame. I have only seen photos of a model years ago and no one has come up with it or drawings when I ask.




    I went through some photos I have collected over the years from visits to Ft. York. I can't find my pictures of the forge that I took. It was set up to the left of the "vistor's center" for the Fort around 2003 or 2004. It looked like the Mueller travelling forge. I have been doing Rev War re-enacting out in the great lakes area now for 20+ odd years. There was a gentleman that had a traveling forge he would bring out to events and work from. If I remember correctly, he took the plans from Mueller. He had a heck of a time getting the wheels made for it.

    I am sorry if I have sidetracked this thread. I am interested in what you find for the 1812 period. I will be curious to see how/if they changed much.

    Brian

  2. Check with Ft. York and Ft. George. Saw something at Ft. York in the late 1980's that was slightly different than Muller's drawings of 1757. Mine is a Muller/British traveling forge. I am not sure what and when the Brits started to change. American's were supposed to have gone to French pattern artillery around 1800-1810. The French pattern forge is supposed to be a four wheel set up, basically a wagon frame. I have only seen photos of a model years ago and no one has come up with it or drawings when I ask.




    Here is a wikipedia article showing a Brit militry traveling forge from 1840's. How does this compare to the Mueller drawing? This has the 2 wheel cart attached so it is more like a 4 wheel wagon.

    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b/b9/British_1840s_Blacksmith_Traveling_Forge_Wagon.jpg

    Brian
  3. Steve,

    Take a look at this link

    http://www.fao.org/docrep/009/ah637e/AH637E26.htm

    It is on axe making but has the shape and size of a drift. it is metric but you can convert it. I am guessing that you are looking for a real axe drift and not more of a tomahawk drift. Hawk drifts tend to be more teardrop shaped. Hope it helps and good luck on your project.


    Brian


  4. This needs to be added to the book lists. Very good set of resources.

    Phil


    After Phil's comment, I thought I would add these links.

    All three of these books were written by J.B. Stokes. They were published by the Food and Agriculture organization of the United nations. The basic book listed before is complete on the FAO website but the intermediate one is not. It is missing figures. The third book (Advanced) is not on the site at all. I like the books because they are very low tech and good for a beginner/backyard blacksmith. I found all of them on the Google book site. The links are below

    basic
    http://books.google.com/books?id=Y9lBNN3u1xQC&printsec=frontcover&client=firefox-a#v=onepage&q=&f=false
    intermediate
    http://books.google.com/books?id=uJvu_qnUKFsC&printsec=frontcover&client=firefox-a#v=onepage&q=&f=false
    advanced
    http://books.google.com/books?id=6kQMg6TcgVwC&printsec=frontcover&client=firefox-a#v=onepage&q=&f=false

    Unfortunately these cannot be printed. they are still under copyright laws. But you can at least read them and take notes or screen shots of the parts that interest you.

    Brian

    Once the IFI site settles down I will post this to the books list thread
  5. Medusa isn't bad at all but she had one ugly head.

    How about Blacksmithing Hydra? The monster with multiple heads..
    Cut one off and two spring forth


    Geez maybe I should have stayed in bed.

    This has been a great thread to watch and participate in.

    Thanks for asking us Grant

    Brian

  6. Phil,

    Interesting read. Thanks. I just grew up with them and wish I had taken some with me when I left home. Mom sold the land so not much of a chance to get some now. How long do you have to season the wood before using it?

    I probably remembering repellent as insect killing. LOL looks like we are all on the same page.

    Brian

  7. Phil,

    I am not an expert here so asking a question. Are you sure about the non-poisonous aspect of the apples? I remember being told it was used as a fly catcherkiller in the 1800's in cabins around southern Indiana. I believe that was from Lincoln Boyhood national park.

    It does look bubbly like a black/raspberry but a harder fruit. I grew up in a house that had a whole hedge of them dividing us from our neighbor with a sprinkling of them in the woods behind. It was the long way of a 20 acre lot. Some of the limbs were 30 inches to 50 inches around. Old trees.

    Thanks

    Brian

    edited
    I found this on Wikipedia... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maclura_pomifera. It is mildly poisonous and was used as a repellent. Interesting read. It seems to be a native to US only.

  8. I went to it thru Ebay and still got the warning. Go figure.


    Grant,

    I am sorry I didn't explain that better. The link I had in here at the start takes you to Ebay. When you get to Ebay, there are links back to reliable tools. Your virus detection software sees the content from reliable and flags it. This is why you get the same warning and will continue to get that warning. Reliable is on a watch list dealing with all the stuff that you see on the warning. Now I will not swear that EBAY is 100% clean but they do have to keep a close eye on their site because they would be out of business otherwise. I am sorry I didn't explain that better. You should be safe visiting Ebay but I will not go to reliable tool site because of your warning.

    Thanks

    Brian
  9. I saw a demo at a cba event spring conference in Exeter, CA Tom Clark and Tsur Sadan and others they slit and drifted a piece of 2'' round with a 2'' drift and place a piece of the same material through this and creates a joint when cooled that is very solid. I know the drift has to be just a little bit smaller than the parent metal this drift is hammered all the way through from one side then another heat is taken and then you insert the other member. Does any one know the formula for the drift size? I tried this with 1/32'' smaller drift and it came out too loose i was using 1/2'' stock and my drift is 15/32. I will try to take another heat and resize the drift but its like spitting hairs the belt sander is another option (too slow)


    Clinton,

    Take a look at Hofi's Blueprint 1051. He goes through how to calculate drift and chisel size. here is a link

    I Forge Iron - BP1051 Punch Calculations

    Brian
  10. Bob,

    I took a class with Brian. He had material for the class to use for handles and he showed us how to shape them. You will learn a lot from him. He is a great teacher and quite willing to show you everything you ask. Enjoy the classes.


    Brian

    P.S. Be ready to take notes, listen to what he says the first time, and don't put anything you make in water. Just trust me on the last one.

  11. Brian, why would a tapered shank cause the heel to brake? Thanks for the ideas.


    Ofafeather,

    To jump in before a response from Brian comes. If you look at the taper shaft hardy, you can see that the blade part does not settle against the face of the anvil. I used one of the hot cuts a couple of weeks ago and I can say that it sticks well above. If you use the taper on a fuller or swage, you would be pushing the taper in too far. This could cause the heel to break from the pressure along a line at the hardy or at least make it very difficult to remover the bottom tool. Having a taper isn't the problem, it is the size of the shaft at face level. If you taper the shaft so it is at the max size of you hardy at face level and the rest of the tool sits against you anvil face then you should be fine.

    Hope that makes sense... of course I can always stand to be corrected.

    Brian
  12. Phil,

    I believe the short answer would be no. The questions remaining to get a good answer are, how many nails do you plan on making? How often do you want to replace the header? If you are doing this as an exercise then use what you have at hand. If you are producing enough nails to build a smithy then you MIGHT want a more durable tool. I would make the first one from easier to acquire steel so you can make mistakes without frustration.

    But that is me,

    Brian

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