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I Forge Iron

brian.pierson

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Posts posted by brian.pierson

  1. I was given a Buffalo 162H agricultural forge last week. We built new legs for it, and I've got to get a belt made and a new lever for the blower. It appears the grate is also missing in the fire pot. Can I still get one of these? I know some forge parts are still available, but not sure for which forges. I'll get a pic up soon.


    Check out centaur forge. they sell a cast replacement Tuyere for $25.


  2. Hello,

    Not to cause a flame war but you do not need a vacuum or cent setup for one ring. There is the old way of doing lost wax investment casting. Do a search for steam casting. You do need a burnout kiln to remove the wax. That is why it is called lost wax. I did this as a starving college student so the cost is not excessive if you are looking for a one off. Everyone's comment on hot metal is dead on.. Caution and patience are the watchwords here.


    Good luck

    Brian

    This is a partial book I found on Google which has some info on steam casting but more sources are out there.

    http://books.google.com/books?id=e_09Enaf4tIC&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=lost+wax+steam+casting&source=bl&ots=YpcRkvlM3I&sig=9hckgQXSgeLf6c4CXTmGBq64XOg&hl=en&ei=2fcWSuWzCoSItgfJ8tHjDA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=6#PPR9,M1

  3. Frosty,

    We are thinking 8 by 16 to 10 by 20. We were thinking a 6 inch slab from the beginning. I do have experience in concrete work and form set up. Engineering a pour and the thickness is what I lack experience in except a few sidewalks. That is why I was asking about thickness for needed for the given weight load of a brick hearth and chimney. I don't think we will get fancy with different thickness within the pour except for the possible PW area.

    A power hammer is possible in the future so we were thinking of leaving a hole in the concrete for an isolation block. The hole will get filled to the top with gravel so there is no tripping issue. I know it is going to be a rough guess where we want it. We are working that out by laying out the known equipment and moving it all around on the floor plan. I guess I have watched too much HGTV home shows LOL. If we get a PW then we can drop the depth of the hole to what we need and rebar/pour to fill. I have used the fiber sheathing that goes under the siding of a house for forming out an isolation line. Usually as a slab to slab iso for side walks, where it is the dividing line. This helps prevent a slab from cracking as it settles as well as expansion/shrinking from local weather conditions. I like this better than normal ply or foam as it compresses better than ply and is not fragile as foam.

    Thanks again all,

    This place is great.

    Brian

  4. Not meaning to hijack the thread but I have a question about flooring thickness in a smithy.

    I am working on pricing out a smithy at my brother's house. He has the land to build it on. We were talking about how thick the floor needed to be under the forge and under the anvil. I have a 350 lb Fisher on a 2 foot oak cube so roughly 450 to 500 ish lbs when in one place. Should I double the thickness in the area to accommodate it? The forge itself will be a angle iron frame with a centaur forge vulcan firepot and hand crank blower. I just got the pot this week so need to have it welded up. I plan on using a firebrick bed in the forge on top of the metal bed. He would like a brick forge but I don't think that is in our budget. How thick would we need the floor to be if that was built in the future? This is in central Indiana.

    Thanks for any comments or advice. This thread already has given me a lot of food for thought.

    Brian

  5. 2Dogs,

    Is it necessary for the project you have in mind to remove the paint? If it isn't, it is probably not worth either the chemicals needed for the removal or the time. Just my 2 cents and worth as much ;)

    Brian

  6. Donnie,

    This is just a thought. Can you detach the blower from its stand? Depending on the amount of portability you want, you could attach it to the table so you don't have to pack the stand around also. I don't know if you have enough room on the forge table but a bracket might give you the room. Looks like a solid project and very usable as it stands.

    Brian

  7. Brian,

    Thanks for the pictures it really helped visualize the action. How thick is the plate? I guess the plate has to to be thicker than the largest thickness it will shear?

    Brian

  8. Looks like some good stuff there, definitely worth a closer look at if within driving distance.

    One question for you e-bay savvy folks:

    The items are marked for Shipping: $100 or $300 and also says "local Pickup"

    Does that mean you have to go pick it up yourself and then pay the seller the shipping fee of 100 or 300 dollars?


    USUALLY this means it will cost x to ship but local pickup is okay and the seller will not charge shipping. It is always best to write the seller to confirm. I would expect shipping that low would be to a terminal closest to you and you still have to pick up there. If you work at a place that has a shipping dock then it might be that to get to you.

    Brian
  9. All,

    I found these listings on Ebay and wanted to let everyone know about them. The gentleman appears to be a retiring blacksmith in Alabama. He has three offerings in the blacksmith area.

    1. A 200lb kohlswa anvil currently going for $309 US
    blacksmithanvil 200lb,Sweden Kohlswa - eBay (item 320364245538 end time May-05-09 05:25:39 PDT)

    2. A power hammer ABNO SWEDEN currently $610US
    blacksmithing machine hammer - eBay (item 320364253233 end time May-05-09 05:59:20 PDT)

    3. A collection of his tools currently $308US
    large numbers of blacksmithing tools - eBay (item 320364259233 end time May-05-09 06:25:04 PDT)

    I wanted to throw this out to the list as the auctions will be over in under 2 days. The pictures look good. Hope this is useful.

    Brian

  10. Junker,

    When I first started out, I purchased my cross pein in a home depot type store. I have seen them in our local one in Indiana. might be worth looking there. I don't remember the size i saw.

    Just an FYI.

    Brian

  11. Okay so the forges are buffalo forges with a supplied air blast from a central air line. The exhaust was sucked out through a pipe in the pedestal.

    I think I see one drill press in the back under the machinery. I wonder if the machinery is also the source of the air blast and or the vacuum for the exhaust? Obviously, one machine wouldn't do both. But there seems to be two honking electric motors so one for supply and one for exhaust.

    I can make out two Fisher & Norris Anvils, I think. On the far left, I see the bolt downs on the feet and I believe the eagle. On the far right, just above the tear, I think it is the eagle again.

    I have seen some of this gear in the old school text books from the time period but it is so cool to see them set up and in use. Layout diagrams just doesn't give you the feel the picture does.

    Thanks for sharing it.

    Brian

  12. There are quite a few threads on here about anvil repair. Search the forums and you will find them under anvil repair. I would include a few if I knew how. Blue Print 101 was written how to repair one so check that one out. A bit chipped does not diminish the anvil so I wouldn't sweat it. The 140 lbs Hay Budden I use is a little more than a bit chipped but it still gets the job done.

    My 2cents is all this is

    Brian

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