brian.pierson
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Posts posted by brian.pierson
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Looks like he has a bunch in the background too. If it is a collector then they will sell on rarity and weight. I would follow Phil's advice on rebound. I would be prepared to walk right away even with good rebound.
Brian Pierson -
Take a look at the Mark Aspery YouTube video here:
http://www.youtube.c...e&v=LQaaS71yfvM
It is a 12 min video on the making of a viking bearded axe. Around the 8 minute mark, they show how to prep the bit for the forge weld. It is part of a longer video that James Austin sells but it has the pertinent highlights. The body of the axe is 1018 low carbon steel and the bit is 1075 high carbon steel. If you are a visual learner then it should help. It shows what you have read here and other places.
Hope this helps
Brian Pierson -
Jamie,
I don't have any way to do thread sizing. I would take it to a big box store and see if it works on the displays. I have seen the displays by the nuts and bolts sales. They have different standard and metric bolts and holes in the display. You can try the one you have to id the size.
I have seen something like that with some friends. I will have to ask around and see if I can get more info.
Brian -
Metric thread on the end?
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I will second or third Centaur forge as a candy store for Blacksmiths. I lived in Milwaukee for 8 years and never got there until the Fall I moved out of town. They had quite a few Brooks anvils sitting on the display floor that they don't have on their website. I was the only person in the store when I was there so I could look the place over. Good luck and welcome to IFI.
You don't have to be a native to know what a bubbler is... but it does help.
Brian Pierson -
Frank,
I just saw an original set go for $960 on Ebay.. There is another set out there for $50 with a couple of days to go. Just FYI for what that is worth. -
Just looking at the 55 lb anvil, it looks like a tinsmith's anvil made for a bench plate more than a stump anvil. I would be leary of putting that in a stump because I would be afraid of it popping out while working with it.
John,
Does yours have slanted sides on the stem or is it straight like it looks in the picture. What size is the stem?
Brian Pierson -
Glenn,
It has to do with the insurance. Even if you don't buy extra insurance, the first 100 or 500 is insured. So they want the thing bulletproof so the automated sorting system can't ruin it. I can get away with repackaging in original OEM packaging but it touchy at times. Besides the stores have to sell those boxes somehow....... -
Dave,
Nice work! I love the the way you have the hook rods to hang the from the ceiling. How would the custom length chain attach to the rack? Do you have a sample that you display at the shows for the client to see?
Brian Pierson -
Beth,
I can see the holes in the hook from the picture. I could see a Phillips head screws used to hold it on the wall so you get a + in the middle of the dots you have. or maybe a square headed screw with a few )( shapes forged into it so it looks like the center of a flower. I was just trying to envision it hanging on a wall for a hat or jacket. I liked the shape of it and you should not be apologizing for it. It might not be what you were working for but it stands to itself well. -
Beth,
Nice hook! How will you attach it to a wall?
Colleen,
Beautiful view... most days at least -
Thanks for the comments. I found a website that sells real and fake skulls, Glenn. I see what you mean by a short stop. I need to also get some clay to work through the process too.
Brian Pierson -
All,
I have a friend that had a raccoon come down her chimney in her new home. She needs a fireplace set for the home. My friends think that a set with raccoon head finials would be great. I searched the web today for instructions but failed to find any. I was thinking that maybe I could adapt the process for a bear's head to make the critter but I thought I would ask the knowledge base on here for their opinions. Has anyone tried a raccoon or have some pointer's? I need to order Daryl nelson's bear head DVD. Thanks for any other pointers you might have.
Brian Pierson -
All,
take a look at this seller on US Ebay. She has several bowl swages that clamp into a vise. There is a spoon swage also. I don't know what it would take to get a set to the UK but it might be a start or possible replacement for a full blown block. I have her hammer/hawk drifts and they do work well. Just thought I would throw it out there.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/beckleydt55vem/m.html?item=270840843069&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&_trksid=p4340.l2562 -
Peter Ross demoed in Albuquerque a few years ago, and the peen on his cross peen hammer was not half round, fuller shaped like mine. It was SLIGHTLY crowned in both width and thickness, not dead flat, but much more 'flattened' than my hammers were. There were SLIGHT radii on all edges. I inquired as to the reason, and Peter said, "Less clean up!" He was referring to the time when you may turn your hammer over to get rid of peen marks. With my half round peens, I got more "corrugations" than he did with his peen. I found that I still got quite a bit of spread with his style of peen when compared to mine.
This old dog learned a new trick. I went to my shop and began to disc sand and scotch brite my cross peens. I did leave one half round to use as a texturing tool, as on rose petals, etc.
Frank,
Would it be possible for you to post a picture of your hammers. I am failing to visualize the peen shape you are describing.
Thanks
Brian Pierson -
Here is a site that sells the swedish blacksmithing book. It should take you right to it. They show the publisher as Gransfors. I wonder if it is the same people as the axe. The cost is 53.00 and is in English. I will have to put that on my buy list.
http://www.artisanid...tm?id=1044&cid=
Brian Pierson -
I would suggest some sterling silver to line the inside of the ring and bring it out the side a bit. You can get silver solder from some place like www.riogrande.com and they sell sheet silver also. Depending on your intended's body chemistry you might need gold, as silver can leave a black instead of green ring around her finger.
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Rock Star,
Take a look at these two topics:
Both should help answer questions. You can also search for other slitting articles or ones on tomahawks.
good luck
Brian P -
I believe he started with 2X4X3/4.
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I have one with the post stand that the round part clamps to. It has remnents of black paint on it. I have seen western chiefs that had a dark brick red on them also. I would say if you are not going for a "perfect" restore then any paint scheme you want. I am planning to do black on the post and red on the blower once I get my smithy built this summer.
Brian -
When you go back check out the museum of London. They have a lot there that might spark your eye. I spent a bit of time in the early rooms with Roman artifacts and early Anglo Saxon stuff. There is a wing in the V&A on iron work also some wonderful examples of architectural stuff.
Brian Pierson -
The reconstructed fort was opened in 1976.............What you see is all there is, made in 1975. They're probably considered antiques by some at 36 yrs old........not unlike the makers at 63 ............
http://en.wikipedia....l_Historic_Site
Macbruce,
Do you have plans for those? I would like to try one of those this summer.
Brian Pierson -
All,
I just want to throw this out here. I looked at the list of books on the CD. From that I found 3/4s of them on the google book site available for download or online reading. Those of us that have a fast enough internet connection can read them on line or download them for free. Those that have a slower connection, then the price appears to be a decent one. I am including the URLs for the ones that I found on a coffee break. I recommend the website for any of us looking for older books on blacksmithing. There are more on there too as well as old periodicals. The site is good as you can find where the scans come from and do inter-library loan for the actual book. I wanted to throw that out there so Thomas didn't have to type it.
Brian Pierson
List following
1) Blacksmith Shop Practice - 1910 - 40 pages
Note: This is online only no downloadable copy
http://books.google.com/books?id=C4HiWUQBPkEC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Blacksmith+Shop+Practice&hl=en&ei=-HK5TZrkLKri0QG_6rTODw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
2) The Value of Science in the Smithy and Forge - 1916 - 163 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=Vz5DAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA156&dq=The+Value+of+Science+in+the+Smithy+and+Forge&hl=en&ei=QHO5TbOuEuPV0QG0n_z8Dw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
3) Farm Blacksmithing - 1904 - 104 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=KTpEAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Farm+Blacksmithing&hl=en&ei=UXS5Tc_xBKOI0QGuyITbDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
4) Forgecraft - 1913 - 175 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=zKpCAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Forgecraft&hl=en&ei=RHW5Tcm9BKTL0QGIqvj1Dw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CDIQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false
5) Electric Welding - 1914 - 48 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=Rl4PAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Electric+Welding&hl=en&ei=hHW5TfKXLafc0QG4iMHjDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CG8Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q&f=false
6) Forge Work - 1912 - 210 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=7MQXAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Forge+Work&hl=en&ei=O3a5TZyAM8Lx0gHJ3anRDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CEUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
7) Forge-Practice - Elementary - 1908 - 279 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=HDMKAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Forge-Practice&hl=en&ei=W3a5TYO2C6Xt0gGUq8HpDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CD4Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q&f=false
8) Practical Forging and Art Smithing - 1915 - 144 pages
Note: No online Google copy found. This book has been republished in paper form.
9) United States Navy Drop Forging Book - Covering Drop Forgings Under all Bureaus for Which Dies are on Hand at Navy Yards - 1919 - 1644 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=CLpAAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=United+States+Navy+Drop+Forging+Book&hl=en&ei=rHi5TcDnEeTv0gGa_O3WDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CGcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
10) The Metallurgy of Iron and Steel - 1908 - 509 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=5ZVBAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=The+Metallurgy+of+Iron+and+Steel&hl=en&ei=6Hi5Te3hL6rL0QG2mfnQDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CE8Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
11) Practical Guide to Iron and Steel Works Analyses - 1911 - 181 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=ueUKAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Practical+Guide+to+Iron+and+Steel+Works+Analyses&hl=en&ei=JHm5Tdi9FOHs0gHa_v3lDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CEEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
12) Steel Working and Tool Dressing - 1914 - 207 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=VZIXtwLqdTkC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Steel+Working+and+Tool+Dressing&hl=en&ei=UHm5TZCAE8Gw0QHYz43yDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CEoQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
13) Hardening, Tempering, Annealing and Forging of Steel - A Treatise on the Practical Treatment and Working of High and Low Grade Steel Comprising The Selection and Identification of Steel, The Most Modern and Approved Heating, Hardening, Tempering, Annealing and Forging Processes, The Use of Gas Blast Forges, Heating Machines and Furnaces, The Annealing and Manufacturing of Malleable Iron, The Treatment and Use of Self-Hardening Steel, with Special Reference to Casehardening Processes, The Hardening and Tempering of Milling Cutters and Press Tools, The Use of Machinery Steel for Cutting Tools, Forging and Welding, High Grade Steel Forcings in America, Forging of Hollow Shafts, Drop-Forging, and Grinding Processes for Tools - 1903 – 288 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=zcFKAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Hardening,+Tempering,+Annealing+and+Forging+of+Steel&hl=en&ei=cnm5Td-fGcTh0QHx-qjoDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
14) The Mechanician, A Treatise on the Construction and Manipulation of Tools, For the Use and Instruction of Young Engineers and Scientific Amateurs - Comprising the Arts of Blacksmithing and Forging, The Construction and Manufacture of Hand Tools, and the Various Methods of Using and Grinding Them, the Construction of Machine Tools and How to Work Them, Machine Fitting and Erection, Description of Hand and Machine Processes, Turning and Screw Cutting, Principles of Constructing and Details of Making and Erecting Steam Engines, and the Various Details of Setting out Work Incidental to the Mechanical Engineer's and Machinist's Art - 1879 – 600 pages
Note: this is listed at 397 pages not 600 but 1879 so it may or may not be the same book
http://books.google.com/books?id=NSlNAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=The+Mechanician&hl=en&ei=r3m5TZLVF-yD0QG798H4Dw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
15) Elementary Forge Practice - 1920 - 154 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=uEXiAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Elementary+Forge+Practice&hl=en&ei=cXu5Tdb6L8ja0QHaiuToDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
16) Standard Blacksmithing, Horseshoeing and Wagon Making Containing Twelve Lessons in Elementary Blacksmithing - 1907 - 211 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=RRvcAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Standard+Blacksmithing,+Horseshoeing+and+Wagon+Making&hl=en&ei=u3u5TeDlOeby0gHY6szhDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
17) American Blacksmithing, Toolsmith's and Steelworker's Manual - 1911 - 240 pages
Note: No online Google copy found. This book has been republished in paper form.
18) Notes for Forge Shop Practice - 1910 - 68 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=noNIAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Notes+for+Forge+Shop+Practice&hl=en&ei=xHy5TZTDBKLx0gG2-LwF&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
19) Drop Forging, Die Sinking and Machine Forming of Steel - Modern Shop Practice, Processes, Methods, Machines, Tools and Details - 1911 - 341 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=Wq9IAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Drop+Forging,+Die+Sinking+and+Machine+Forming+of+Steel&hl=en&ei=7ny5TdvoF4X00gGWkPX8Dw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CF4Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
20) The Case-Hardening of Steel - An Illustrated Exposition of the Changes in Structure and Properties Induced in Mild Steels by Cementation and Allied Processes 1914 - 190 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=XohAAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=The+Case-Hardening+of+Steel&hl=en&ei=Fn25TYCIJ4Pi0QHs7v3iDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
21) Bolt, Nut and Rivet Forging - 1914 - 43 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=cV4PAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Bolt,+Nut+and+Rivet+Forging&hl=en&ei=On25TbfWEOTo0QGTorzlCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CGUQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
22) Forges and Furnaces in the Province of Pennsylvania - 1914 - 204 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=fpNBAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Forges+and+Furnaces+in+the+Province+of+Pennsylvania&hl=en&ei=pX25TaqHKsLi0QHEhIzmDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CGAQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
23) Practical Blacksmithing Volume 1 - 1889 - 224 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=phgLAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=inauthor:%22Milton+T.+Richardson%22&hl=en&ei=TH65TebJGcfk0QG_xNXxDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
24) Practical Blacksmithing Volume 2 - 1891 - 262 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=whgLAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false
25) Practical Blacksmithing Volume 3 - 1889 - 307 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=AzDSAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA1&dq=Practical+Blacksmithing+Volume+2&hl=en&ei=BX-5Tcq7H6rL0QG2mfnQDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false
26) Practical Blacksmithing Volume 4 - 1889 - 276 pages
NOTE: Several Pages at beginning were badly scanned in. I believe this is Volume 4 but not 100% positive
http://books.google.com/books?id=cRkLAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false
27) Forge-Practice and Heat Treatment of Steel - 1919 - 418 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=gYFIAAAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Forge-Practice+and+Heat+Treatment+of+Steel&hl=en&ei=HoK5TdvSB6bg0QHC3OzmDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
28) Forging Operations - 1916 - 173 pages
Not found
29) Machine Forging - 1914 - 36 pages
Not Found
30) Drop Forging - 1910 - 54 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=VVsPAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Drop+Forging&hl=en&ei=RYi5TeGkHMqJ0QG7lcj4Dw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CF4Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
31) Machine Blacksmithing - 1910 - 48 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=VFsPAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Machine+Blacksmithing&hl=en&ei=u4i5Tde4Fqjq0gGJ8qAG&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=book-thumbnail&resnum=1&ved=0CFUQ6wEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
32) The Complete Guide to Blacksmithing, Horseshoeing - 1902 - 222 pages
Note: No online Google copy found. This book has been republished in paper form.
33) Machine Molding - Foundry Appliances, Malleable Casting, Brass Founding, Blacksmith-Shop Equipment, Iron Forging, Tool Dressing, Hardening & Tempering, Treatment of Low-Carbon Steel, Hammer Work, Machine Forging, Special Forging Operations - 1906 - 678 pages
Not found
34) Modern Blacksmithing - 1904 - 202 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=ij5DAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=Modern+Blacksmithing&hl=en&ei=KYq5TfbbO8b50gHD4JjoDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDkQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false
35) The Working of Steel, Annealing, Heat Treating, and Hardening of Carbon and Alloy Steel - 1922 - 245 pages
http://books.google.com/books?id=Z7sUfySkUO0C&printsec=frontcover&dq=The+Working+of+Steel,+Annealing,+Heat+Treating,+and+Hardening+of+Carbon+and+Alloy+Steel&hl=en&ei=XYq5TcTDH6qO0QG7qPzxDw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CGMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=false -
the hair color makes no difference but the "magic" of red heads in those days does. just like rubbing the head of a red headed boy for luck. Okay not relevant in a science world but interesting anthropology.
Brian Pierson
What do you think of this southern crescent anvil?
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Posted
there are a few topics on here that show a southern crescent anvil in them. Take a look at "show me your anvil" around page 6. The anvil was made like a fisher with a hard steel top plate and a cast body. It might make for a quieter anvil. 2 hours one way is a haul for just a look at 1 anvil but just throwing out more info to you.