brian.pierson

Andrew,

Take a look on Mark Aspery's youtube site http://www.youtube.com/user/MarkAspery he has a video on it that goes through the start of an axe. The size of the steel is in the video. I just looked at it on Monday. good luck with it.


Brian Pierson

Dave,

A beautiful piece and one I would be proud to own(if I had a fireplace).

One comment to throw out. You might consider putting your touchmark on the bottom of the cross member. If you leave the top "open" you might be able to sell the customer some customization, i.e. their name, the house name, or even a phrase. If you can sell it by the letter/length, it could sweeten the pot and up the perceived value. It is just a thought that came through my mind.

I know this one is spec and you want to use as advertisement. It makes sense to get your name out in front of people especially when the friends see it in a home. I also know there is logistics involved in trying to do custom work at a show.

just a thought and good luck,

Brian Pierson

Thanks for the responses one and all.


I will do more research into makes and models and let you all know where I go.


In response to some of the comments but in no general order:

This started from a discussion with my brother when I brought over a O/A torch kit that I had picked up in a big box store on sale. I know he had used O/A in the past and thought it was a good place to start. When I said I wanted to learn, then the discussion went to electric rigs. I have wanted to go to a CC to take classes but my traveling schedule for work has been killing that idea so was hoping he would teach me. He said that it would be easier to learn with a wire feed setup but didn't know the best way to go. I brought it here to ask and answer you have. Now I need to research what the shop will need to power it safely. Thanks for the suggestions on the used market and checking a local welding supply company. I will have to find one local to my brother as he is about 3 hours away currently but hoping to take care of that this summer by moving there.


Thanks again for the advice and I am as always humbled by the breath and willingness to help out that I find here.

Brian Pierson

Okay all,

First off, I do not have experience with welders so I am looking for suggestions for a good one. I am looking to buy one that I can use and not outgrow but I am not looking to make this a business either. I am building a shop at my bother's house. He has welding experience but not a pro either. We are planning a 220 run into the shop. I am looking to be able to put together tooling for my LG and such. What would you suggest that I should be looking at. I will start looking for a used one and go from there.

Thanks for the pointers in advance.


Brian Pierson

All,

This might be the site for the european krusty plans. http://www.ferrumdg.com/ You have to dig down through the blacksmithing section into the know how section. I downloaded the plans a couple of years ago with intentions of building this. I sent these to woodshoprat already but they seem complete.

EDIT: I take that back. I found the same plans on several sites with several different names on them. Same plans as the one site.


Brian Pierson

Great picture storyboard!

Brian,

Is the fullering hammer in day 5 a new one or the one from your icon picture?


Brian Pierson

@John McPherson My apologies for my run-on sentence. I May Have caused some confusion. The J.Wilcox was on the small "Candle Stick" Stake. The only thing on the Hot Cutter was the Symbol I don't Know yet. What I can make out as "VERONALLOY" and "OFGA" & @ROBAR

No need for apologies Dave, running scrolls are merely scrolls that are added to each other, a couple of pics attached for your perusal, these are relatively simple ones.

This bracket is a student's piece made at Hereford College,

And this infil was a competition piece made in two hours at the Devon County Show in 2009 by Richard Jones.


For more information on running scrolls go here Lesson 19 on page 10 in this section http://www.hct.ac.uk/PDF/CraftPublications/WroughtIron/WROUGHT%20IRONWORK%20PART%205_tcm2-18924.pdf and Lesson 24 on page 3 here http://www.hct.ac.uk/PDF/CraftPublications/WroughtIron/WROUGHT%20IRONWORK%20PART%206_tcm2-18925.pdf

As for collars and mandrels, details lesson 11 on page 11 http://www.hct.ac.uk/PDF/CraftPublications/WroughtIron/WROUGHT%20IRONWORK%20PART%203_tcm2-18921.pdf shows the proceedure

Sharp corners are not necessary, in fact they may start to undercut when forging, I believe collars have been discussed previously on this site which may give other 'extras' to this basic information, but the principle is the same

Hope this helps.

FE-Wood and Dan E.

Here is a link to a pdf of Clay Spencer's tool set from the Alabama Forge Council website. I found this when I went looking for tooling for my new ( to me) LG. I hope it helps


http://www.alaforge.org/files/Tire_Hammer_Tools.pdf

Still Learnin'

Does it have Pexto on the side? Do a google search on Pexto and you will find examples that look like your hammer. Most list it as a raising hammer but talk about auto body and tinsmith work. Hope it helps.


Brian Pierson

All,

I just bought a 25# LG with flat dies. The dies have a very square edge. The person I bought the hammer from bought them new and didn't use them. He mentioned that the dies need some work to get them correct. What radius is considered "heavy"


Thanks for this useful thread and the info in it

Brian Pierson

Saw this #270 lbs on ebay.

Looks to be in okay shape in Churchville, NY

http://cgi.ebay.com/270-anvil-/140504162241?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20b6b35fc1

RFD has a website at http://www.rfdtv.com/

Some interesting stuff on there.

Brian P

Luke,

I have a blower that is missing that too. Here are a few pics from a couple of EBAY Western Chiefs. You can see in the one the Red color you were talking about in the other thread.


Brian Pierson

Basher,

thanks for the picture.

Bob S,

thanks for the pictures. You posted those for me when I was asking and I didn't reply. My apologies.

I have my hammer now so I have to build a house for it this spring. Once that is done then the shield. I may combine the two. I will have to see what kind of clearance I will have.

Brian Pierson

you know what they say "hope springs eternal"

Woodlife,

Additional thing for your list when making your own would be a kiln to fire the brick in. I would hit a local brick seller to see what they have or can get hold of. Small batch may be costly for them though. I understand the sense of accomplishment. To paraphrase commercials... Priceless.

Brian Pierson

Basher,


bad luck but good you can replace it. Do you have a picture of the leather covering? I just got a LG 25 and it needs a shield to stop any flying metal in case of spring break. I would like some thing that doesn't get in the way so I am curious on how it looks.

Brian Pierson

Bought it at an antique shop for $250.00. Seemed kinda steep but it worked and the gears looked pristine. The anvil I bought from Harbor Freight.

Thomas and James,

Thanks! That helps a lot. I will have to figure out how to drill the mounting holes. I know a machine shop close that has a magnetic drill setup. Maybe I can take it there before mounting. I will have to print out the pictures to help explain what I am talking about.

James,

Are the dies from Little giant? I was looking at what they had on their website last night. The set on the hammer now is just a straight flat set and I was thinking of getting the change out set.

Clinton,

Did he say how long the hole took to heal? I am torn as I have heard chicks dig scars... But I like seeing. LOL

Brian Pierson

Thomas,

Yeah kind of a christmas present to myself. I have been looking for one close to me in Indiana. The gentleman selling it has had it for 6 years but never worked on it after he had it over hauled. He retired and is downsizing so I will go to pick it up this weekend. I am building a new shop this spring at my brother's house so it will go there after I get the floor poured. of course I will have pictures for all of us as I go along. The LG is an old style one. I believe the serial number is 3310. I plan on sending Sid at Little Giant an email to ask for info on it.

On another note, the gentleman has a buffalo forge brand forge also he is trying to get rid of. I don't know the condition but he mentioned $150 for it and a stainless hood. I am thinking of picking that up. I have the parts for a new forge in the shop so I don't really need it but figure I can help him out and maybe someone else down the road. Who knows.

Here are some pictures of the hammer from the ebay ad. I will take a look at James' website to see what I can see on there.

Brian Pierson

All,

I just purchased a LG 25. It does not have a safety shield over the toggle arms. Does anyone out there have a pattern that worked for them? Thanks in advance.

Brian Pierson

Has anyone tried a Kohlswa anvil i saw one on TechnicusJoe's youutube channel and how do they compare to a london pattern anvil like my peter wright, what are they made of, cast steel? what are they like to work on? i am thinking of getting one because their face seems really wide. Any suggestions, or should i stick with a london pattern?
thanks in advance
josh

Ian and Owen,

thanks again for the reply. I am about 2 hours from Louisville, KY. There is an arm of the Armouries there so I may get a chance to talk to a curator in person. I am being curious more than practical on this question. I was trying to envision what the finished product likely looked like. Thanks for your time in answering.

Happy New Year
Brian Pierson

Ian and John,

Thanks for the responses. I took a look at the Royal Armouries' website but nothing was there. I will see what I can do to dig up the book. I may have to do some other forum posting. Yes it is a specific question. Thanks again.


Brian Pierson