brian.pierson

All,

I am reading a book titled "Ancient Weapons in Britain" It covers Bronze age through 1066. I picked this up at the British Museum last month after spending the afternoon looking at the Sutton Hoo room. I took a bunch of pictures but can't tell from them, what the taper was like. The book covers length and width of the blade but nothing on the taper. I wish that I could find thickness listings even. Does anyone out there have a pointer on a reference book to look this up in. Thanks in advance everyone and Happy holiday season one and all.

Brian Pierson

No sir. It's an odd piece in that they fitted a dowel or an L shaped piece of wood in the end and used it that way. Not sure why that is so, but I'm very confident that is how it was used. Otherwise having the 2 inch (approx) deep circular mount on the end is pointless and detrimental to being used as a wedge.

Jacob,

I have a question about the bronze "axe" being contemporary with the roman camp axe. Hadn't the Celtic people moved into the iron age by the time the Romans arrived?

That aside, If you look at modern coopering tools you will find some iron hoop drivers with a wooden insert that is hit instead of the iron bit. It saves on weight and is replaceable where the iron bit will show signs of wear and tear. It is not implausible the bronze head would have be done the same to save on wear and tear. I have seen the l-shaped handle on early bronze axes as you have discussed also. Didn't those axes have ears so the head could be tied onto the handle? I will have to hunt and see if I have a picture from the British museum with the bronze axes there.

Thanks for bringing the pictures along.


Brian Pierson

Ironsmith,

I definitely understand where you are coming from. I was fortunate to take a class from Brian about a year ago. It helped me immensely. Did you get any pictures that you can share. Always instructive too. Thanks

Brian Pierson

Take a look at the super sucker hood. It gives the basic dimensions. You will have to add the length you need to get outside your wall. Also you will need a shallow slope so any rain water will drain away from your fire and not towards it. The opening needs to be smaller in area than the area of of the chimney pipe.


Brian Pierson

wow that was just 610 bucks about a week ago...

Good Luck. If I was closer, I would be bidding on it also. It looks like exactly what I want.

Brian

All,

Was looking through Ebay and saw this hammer in PA.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Blower-Forge-Blacksmith-Trip-hammer-power-anvil-antique-/110602476281?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c06bdaf9

It is $610 at this time so I thought I would throw it out there. This seemed like the correct thread to put it in. The owner is in Montana but the hammer is in PA. at the in-laws.


Brian Pierson

Dave,

Only from reading and not experience but I think you want to decrease the size of the opening to pull the smoke better. It looks like it draws well but your comments says it doesn't draw completely. Take a look at this page on anvilfire. http://anvilfire.com/21centbs/planfile/ Looks great though and you should be proud of it.

Brian

John B,

This is great! I think Glenn could sticky this at the top of the tool section. It is a great reference for old and new. Especially for both sides of the pond.

Thanks
Brian Pierson

Brian,

She was real pleased with how it came out! She hosted several open invite sessions to sew the fabric parts - each fabric piece had a pocket into which she placed small amulets - folk would take one as a gift then leave tokens or items of their own for others to have - kinda like "Emotional Geo-caching"!

Here's a couple of it in the daytime

After looking at the posting of the original concept drawing from your other posting, it went well from the page to the item. What pieces did she forge up for it? Definitely a piece to be proud of.

What is she going to do with it the other 51 weeks a year?

Brian

Chyancarrek,

Interesting piece that your ex did. Do you have a pic showing the whole work in the light? Or maybe she does?

Brian

Matt,

Here is a link to one of Brian Brazeal's posts. He shows making a tong blank in hot steel and cold clay. He said the clay he got was at the Hobby Lobby. Interesting read and still on your topic.



Brian Pierson

Here is a couple of pictures that I found somewhere on the net. They show a closer look at a powered helve like the one from Italy. I think you could scale it down so you don't have to take out a telephone pole to make it. I have been toying with the idea of making something like this but not using a cast iron drive and hammer. Thanks for sharing the treadle design.


Brian

Ironstein,

Thanks for the link. Okay that explains it to me. Sorry for my confusion.

Question... how are you converting the 110 AC to DC after the motor controller but BEFORE the DC variable? I am guessing you still have the controls from the treadmill?

There are two different ways of doing electricity ... dc vs ac (edison vs tesla) I don't know what you have but you might want to find a person close to you that does do electricity. I would hate to see you burn up your gear or worse.


Brian

Yeah, the blower is wrong-side up...if it leaks any oil just use a good grease instead, it'll do fine, after all you dont want to blow sparks all over the neighborhood!

I dunno, but I think the picture was taken with the camera on its side. The top picture shows the oiler cap sticking over the top of the blower. It should be fine the way it is sitting. A picture taken from the other side like the one on top would solve the mystery.

Brian

ofafeather,

Here are some older discussions on punches and design.





There is a few to start you. Do a search on punches and you will find more.

John,

Take a look here: http://cgi.ebay.com/1942-Antique-Buffalo-Blacksmith-Forge-Tool-Vintage-Ad-/400139703882?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2a2f564a. It has a Buffalo 243H forge with a hood on it. The seller seems to find a lot of old tool catalogs and pages them out. It might be worth looking deeper. He isn't the only one doing that. It might help. Heck, eBay is good for pictures period of "vintage" tools. There is also a gentleman that sells half hoods like the one in the catalog. You might not be able to get a pattern out of him but maybe some advice.


There isn't any reason you couldn't use the forge with charcoal. It is a nice job on the restoration.

Hope it helps.

Brian

And don't put it in water when quenching.... I do remember some of the rules.


I still have to make a couple of drifts before I am ready for the hammer.


Your hammer in the picture of your avatar looks like one of the faces is canted at an angle. Is it a trick of the camera or the way you forged it?

Jimbob, wouldn't a round swage hold the blank better than a "V"? I would think you would need a hold down coming from the pritchel also. The blanks will bounce if my memory is serving me right.

Brian

Brian,

I got my hands on a 3 inch top swage. I am planning on making a fullering hammer to go with the rounding hammer you made in Va last fall. I have some 1045 for the hammer. I was planning on reversing the order and put the flat on the anvil face and the top swage on the fuller end instead of the flatter. Are there any obvious gotcha's that a novice is missing? I have thought through it and can't find any so I am asking while this topic is out here.

Brian

Postleg,

I was sorting through some old URLs and stumbled across this one. http://gallery.slackdot.org/v/projects/miscblacksmith/theboss/ While your hammer isn't a "Boss", the setup might work with the parts you have. I couldn't tell from your pictures if it made sense or not. But I thought I would put it out there.

Brian

woodwalker.

When I was doing jewelry with silver, I used 20 Mule team. I have used it with Brass also. I would expect it to be fine with copper. I used iron muffler pipe for the pattern flask. I never tried straight plaster of paris for the investment. I did steam casting for the silver work I did. Good luck with your project.


Brian Pierson

Brian and Karen,


Might I suggest opening a different discussion and let this one close. The beginning of this discussion was over a year ago and sidetracked. I think the discussion on the hot cut itself is a valuable one. After using Brian's design at yesteryear, I have gathered up what I need to make myself one. Well, except for the striker to help to do it but I am working on that. I have never met a more able and willing teacher in my life. Thanks for the advice and instructions.


Brian Pierson

Thomas,

What year did you buy the #515? Just curious.


Brian

Thanks Matt,

I figured I'd probably drill/cut out the beginnings of the slot, then drift the remainder. I'll keep the rotating thing in mind...as well as lube. I also figure 1045 will be the ticket, as my heat treat setup is pretty primitive lol.

Cris

Cris,

You will find topics on here by brianbrazealblacksmith on hammer making. Here is one on slitters and use with hammer making. Hopefully, it will be useful for you. I took a class with him on hammer making and he definitely knows what he is doing when it comes to hammer making.

Brian