HWHII

Rory, What size is the hydraulic H frame press in the photo? Thanks

WOW! Something else to think about trying. I hope I live long enough to try all the things I have seen on this site. Do you think they have forges in heaven? I hope so! :D

Nice Job! I like the finished results.

I love your set up! Thats what I call making the most out of what you have. I have seen set ups like that here in the southwest and they usually hang of the back of the truck. Water well service trucks mostly. Now you have me thinking front end?

Phil to answer your question yes. The main codes are AWS American Welding Society and ASME American Society of Mecanical Engineers, API American Protroleum Insitute. API is the proubably the most allowing for defects. Most all refere back and forth to AWS and ASME for different applications. It is a bit like law books it can take a bit of reading to get the right answer.

This is it Ron Kinyon's "The MonteHammer"

Mainely, BOB You are welcome. I will have to get back to you on the specs. I will have to find my notes in the archives. ;)

Bob, here are some pictures of Ron Kinyon's new design. This is the larger hammer but it will run on a small compressor. I believe a 5hp 110v 30 gal. He is going to send me some pictures of the smaller one tonight and I will post them tommorow.

Sorry they came out big again. RATS I even down sized them in photo shop. Must have hit the wrong key again. Well maybe this will be better to give you a close up view. :lol:

Mainely,BOB, I am going to attemped to down load the photos hopefuly they will come out the right size. I really need to sit down for a few days with some one and figure out how to work this thing right. As far as why I built my hammer the way I did, simply because I have always had the need to be a little different in everything I do. This a been both a blessing and a curse. I really like the 50lb Bull design and it did operate with the cylinder on the bottom but just on a single tube. I personly know of two people that have one and got to work on one and after watching the tube flex I thought there would be a fatique issue at some point. As it turn out the builder did go back and change the tube to a soild bar. For me a parallel tube would supply the reinforcement needed. I mounted the cylinder were I did because it seemed logical and I could plumb it to Ron Kinyon's design. The anvil is railroad car axle. If I built another I would not change a thing it has served me well for many years althought I do not use it a my primary hammer anymore since I got my SayHa. I have specialty dies I use it for now. If you have any more questions I will do my best to help you out.

Bob, I might have some photos. I will check with Ron to see if I may post them.

I really like airhammers. I built a airhammer with a kit Ron Kinyon put together for us in the AABA. The kits included the cylinder, valves, hoses, switch and couplers every thing you needed. They were selling for about $450.00 but this was several years ago and I probably had about $900.00 in the whole project. I designed my own but was influenced by the 50lb Bull that was made in the late 90's you can see a photo of my hammer in the thread Show Me Your Shop. I would supply you with a link but haven't figured out how to do that yet. It has a 85lb head and does 250 BPM at 120 PSI and has good one strike control. There is very little machine work on it. Just tap and threaded some holes It also has an adjustable switch for head highth for tooling. Ron now has a design for a smaller hammer. A 25lb portable that will run off a 5hp 110V compresor. It is a sweet hammer. The AABA also did a work shop with Clay Spencer in 2007. They made 15 tire hammers. We sold a few for $2000.00 but I am sorry I can remember the cost of the workshop. Maybe one of my fellow members will chime in and give you the cost if they remember. They are very nice hammers and have good control. I wish I would have taken part in the workshop to build one. What ever you decide to build you will have fun building it and you will always have the pride and be able to say I built that. Good luck! ;)

May he rest in peace. Amen

Thanks for sharing! I love to look at other shops and old equipment.

Sorry! I the brand name wrong on the original thread response. Sometimes I can be really challenged. :blink:

I went to install a railing job on Friday and boy did I xxxx it up. The concrete on the porch sloped 1 1/4 in 4ft. When I did the take off for it I noticed it but did not think it was that much. On average I see 1/2 in 4 ft. and thats what I assumed what it was. You all know what happens when you assume. So needless to say there is going to be some rework on this one. Lucky for me my clients were very understanding. I had made a couple of other mistakes on this job during the fab but caught them as I went. My point on all of this is how many of you have had jobs were you start out and the mistakes or maybe just problems start to snowball then fight you all the way to the end and other jobs thats you have no problems. It is all most like a curse after the first mistake. I would like to hear your stories. It might help to ease my pain and embaressment on this one. Thanks!

Congradulations on the table Larry! $580.00 is a steel and proubably the best deal I have ever heard on one except for some one I know who found one on the top of a pile at the scrap yard and payed scrap price plus a little to by it. I have a 5x5 Weldsale also and love it. You might want to check out Strong Arm Clamps. They make a clamp that is like a Bessy clamp but with a knurled bottom that drops in the holes. They work great I have several and I payed about $30.00 a piece for them.

The price seems fair as is but always make an offer. I would buy it. Good Luck :)

I have had very good luck cutting a wide range of steels including harden tool steel, monel and inconel with a 6" grinder and a .045 cutting wheel. Score your cut and then work it down slowly being careful to keep the heat down. I have found even with a chop saw a thinner blade seams to work best. I like a 3/32" in thickness for most applications.

I have been lucky and have a young college man to help me when I need him. As long as I give him enough notice he will always come. He can not weld but I have tought him to be a fabricator. I got him right out of high school. I arrange for him to work around his school classes. I pay him a fair wage and keep him under 20hrs a week and consider him contract labor. He seems to be very happy. When I worked for a very large company we tried to hire young men right out of high school or the local comunity college welding programs for some positions. They are very eager to learn and if your interviews are good you can weed out the bad ones. Most have turn out to be good long term employees there.

Buddy welding can be done off one power supply. For example if you had a Lincoln SAE-400 welder you could use a Lincon 350 multi welder to run off the same power source. The 350 multi-weld is not a powersource by itself. You can run multiable units of this one welder.

I got mine a P5 from Bob at Old World Anvils and Amy Pieh. I love it and the price is resonable. There is a picture of it on the thread Show Me Your Shop.

I do agree with what Bidgundoctor say's here it does work well. If you are going to use this method in a non code application you should use a compadable ss filler alloy for carbon steel like 309L.