jacobd

I like this kind of arguing. When your trying to win your point you use your best information. I'm learning a lot from this. Please continue.

You can make good money detailing cars. From just a wash and vacuum, to buffing clear coat wear and going to get a paint pen and fixing paint damage. A buddy of mine used to charge $120 for cars and trucks, $150 for SUV's and mini vans. He was only spending about $50-100 a week in supplies, and doing 3-5 cars a week. You're coming close to the age where many of your peers will be getting cars. Installing subwoofers in a car is surprisingly simple. I have put many subwoofers in. The beauty is these beat the snot out of the car, and they might pay you to replace a tail light bulb or whatever breaks. Not many people know how to install them, and shops charge outrageous rates for even basic installs. If you live in a rural area, farms or ranches might hire you to repair fences or be a helper, my friend was paid $10 an hour since he was 15 working for a guy with a several hundred head of cattle. Until he found a job that paid as well in the AC haha. Plasti-dip peoples wheels. Make a friend that's a sophomore or junior with a truck and put up craigslist adds for moving furniture or whatever. Buy and sell, knowing people helps, build relationships with people who work on cars, do car audio, do woodworking, welding, and so on. One day they will be in a bind and need to sell something. Buy it and sell it to another buddy or put it on Craigslist. The most steady one is the car detailing, once your name builds, if you do good work for an ok price, you will do well. My friend devon who detailed cars always had nice clothes, the newest game systems, newest Iphone, and so on. I mostly did car audio, and between me and my dad's friends there was usually something i could buy and flip. It's all about knowing people. How many relationships can you build with useful people. That's what I've seen lately in friends who actually were go getters and made their own money. Your welcome to message me if you want.

^ this guy... I feel like you're the reason your co-workers have fun at work.

It took some serious self control not to jump into politics when I read "election sign wire"...

I don't see many swamp coolers for sale. I've only ever seen one at work (Home Depot). Can you get one for a good price? Does it work better than a window unit?

Ours is usually 40-75% :( ....... I just don't handle sub 20 degree weather well.

My bad, didn't see all the above info. Hehe......

Kanca is made by the same Turkish company that produces the Peddinhaus these days IIRC. C45 just like the peddinghaus also IIRC. Should be pretty good. Seeing as how blacksmiths depot is the only company that sells them in a language I recognize as being from my side of the globe I don't know of anyone who owns or has mentioned one. The above information should say something about it however. I think it would be good. I would buy it if it was satisfaction guaranteed. Old world anvils also sells them and might be cheaper. I would guess it's a good one. I'm no expert by any means. If you live in the states pick up a 100lb JHS or TFS. They are good, and even better priced.

Yeah, one night here in central Texas they had us do our second football practice at 11 pm and it was still 97 when we started. I really want a building with AC. If your not in the shade your day at the forge will be short.

I would truly recommend and hope you save yourself the trouble and just hard face it now and work harden it as SJS recommended.

Not worried about dead spots? Your rebound will only be good on the plug welds you mentioned and around the edge. Unless you have a different method for welding it since the last time you talked about it.

Now you have lived on both ends of the desert. Within the US. I can't imagine much summer forging happening unless you have more money than my family does! AC in the shop seems a must.

Almost ready to start shaping the horn. It's coming along nicely, should be done in s few weeks.

I can't tell in the pic because of my phone. Are you going with hard facing rods or grader blade?

A little more info. Pure iron is softer than good bronze. It is easily forge-able. the Zulu weapons were pure iron if my IIRC. It has to be work hardened. To get anything decent it has to be worked to a point between annealed and the fatigue point to get much use out of it. It is very soft and easily forged. Like wrought iron. Although I don't think it's as temperature sensitive as wrought. I would assume if they have pure iron then their bloomery doesn't reach a high enough temperature to allow the iron to absorb carbon. This would also imply silicates aren't getting trapped in the iron. Which I would think would be a attribute of the ore. The beginning of my post contained some facts. After that mostly speculation. I'm waiting on Frosty or Mr powers to comment. In the video they work the metal at a temperature that leads me to believe it's not wrought. So it's probably steel. Wrought would split at some of the temperatures they were working at.

Iron is workable. It all depends on temp and ore. Lower temps yield wrought. Higher yield steel. That's an oversimplification (because I don't know much more than that), but the general idea. There are a lot of variables tho.

Isn't frosty in AZ?

Well I will scratch that off the to do list

Thats no joke, it really does.

Just sand off the letters and put the black frog on it!

I understand that no 2 situations are the same, conditions vary. My question is if I'm casting high carbon steel, between the melting, pouring, and cooling, how much carbon is lost? I know there are a lot of variables here, and this a broad and uneducated question. However my search results yielded nothing closely related to the info I'm looking for. I know there are a few metallurgical engineers on here. I know the risk is high without the proper ppe (even with proper ppe if SHTF) as well as most crucibles are made for non-ferrous metals. I have a little notebook for casting separate from my general forgework notebook. It's awful bare of info on casting steel. For those worried about my safety I'm not going to do this anytime soon, I'm not educated enough or equipped well enough to do this in the near future. I've looked at backyardmetalcasting and they don't have much on casting steel. I'm just doing my homework right now. Now that I've given all this tangential and extraneous information I'll get back to the point. My question: how much carbon should I expect to lose in casting steel? For an example let's say 1080. In the future I want to cast a steel anvil, also one day to cast mild steel body onto a high carbon face (feel like that's gonna be a booger), just for the sake of doing it. I expect both to be in the 10lb range. Once again, I'm just doing some homework now, if you have any material you would recommend I digest I'm all ears. Thanks, seriously, can't find much on casting steel at the level of understanding I am.

I wanted to cry dishing out the bread for my 150lb TFS. I want a lot of things. However I hate spending money. I'm a broke college kid. I also think if they could be cast, cleaned up on your own, and then have them heat treated for a reasonable price, then there is a potential business venture there. I also have no idea what any of that would cost. I don't imagine it would be cost effective unless you bought many of them. For $10'a pound or less I bet they would sell tho. I would start saving up anyway.

I don't remember the temp rating on ITC-100 would that be a possible inner coating?

I feel like having that anvil cast in bronze would demand a large quantity of disposable income.

Have used forklift forks with good result, i know its an unknown but they respond well to an oil hardening, an are common to find in large dimensions.

Were you able to cut them with anything other than a torch? I have a small one and tried horizontal bandsaw, chop saw, plasma cutter. I just didn't want to have to grind off the ugly torch marks along the cut.

How do we go abouts getting one with our name on it?