jacobd

It's not permanently mounted yet, but here it is.

Assuming you'll run a larger firepot in the future (which is entirely likely), you'll just have to recut it to fit. The I beam is gonna last a lifetime. But I would build it where it intends to live, as the weight in this case is gonna wind up leaving you with back problems like me. :) most firepots you buy are 12" or bigger. So don't fret over an 8" or whatever hole. Especially if you own a welder.

Fabricated firepot is a good idea once you know what you want. Brake drum is a cheap easy way to figure out what you would change to make it better. My first forge was made from a round plow disk. It taught me beyond any doubt that a deep fire with less air was far superior to a shallow fire with lots of air.

jacobd - I am in Bellville, TX

If I end up going to school down there and you need a strong back and weak mind I'll do it haha.

I realized I didn't switch my translator a few hours later after the second post. My stupidity here is not cultural, just a matter of observance. Embarrassing all the same.

Large diameter 12" PVC or similar cap-able pipe, a 5 gal bucket, a 35 gal drum (get from an auto mechanic or similar) old trash can, don't overthink this.

Nice. If you want a better rebound, have you thought of welding a piece of 6 inch forklift tine on top? If done right, couldn't that improve the rebound? (Maybe our more knowledgeable members can comment on the merits of trying something like that.)

My first anvil was an approx 200lb 3x6 face x30" long forklift fork... I still use it.

I just finished setting up two more forge stations in my shop this past weekend. Thought I'd share a few pictures. The forges are old factory forges. One has a new vulcan firepot and the other still has the original firepot. The hoods are a "supersucker" style made from 14 gauge mild steel with 10" stacks. The large side draft forge is one I made a couple of years ago and is my main forging station. The other pictures are of my swage block stand with a short vise I also mounted this weekend and a couple of pictures of the whole shop.

John

That cone mandrel looks like something a B52 would drop. That's big. Is that solid? If it had legs I would ride it into battle. Not sitting on the point of course. Just thought I would clarify that.

Thanks guys! I'll meet home tomorrow morning and let y'all know!

Hey guys, I was just wondering if any of you Texas guys live anywhere near Waco. Ide like to meet someone else close by to work with help out from time to time. Free labor for what would be an opportunity for me to learn more. If this kind of post is frowned upon, just delete it and let me know please. Thanks guys!

Idk, 48-50 rc on face, where as my tfs is 52, that just less rebound, plus I like where the mass is in the tfs, it's got a big fat waist, not to the nimba extent, but close. Even an errant blow from an uncrowned hammer does next to no marking on the face. It takes a serious blow to mark it noticeably. There is a good thread on here about cast ductile iron on here, someone mentioned it can be 4x stronger, and 2x harder than mild steel. Not to mention the carbon forms spheres instead of flakes which makes it much harder to crack.

I have one pesky neighbor as well............

She lays out in the sun, wearing very little, and it has effected my forge work.

Those are the worst :)
My neighbors daughter is only a couple years older than me (23 I think) and they have a pool in their back yard.....

update on my post on Staining my shop. amazing what an airless sprayer can get done in 2 hrs. Two coats with half hr between, and even had time to spray a the back wall of my main repair shop that had waited 10 yrs for stain. We would have been two days with a brush and most likely would have only got one coat and used as much stain plus the fact I would still be waiting for my son to show up and do the high peaks. Took longer to prep, cover the windows and doors, removing the rolling doors and hardware, putting back and cleaning machine than to spray.

haven't a clue on how to get a picture on here. Read a number of comments on it and know less now than before. Will look into it future.

Did you use one of the little <$100 Wagner sprayers? We sell those at work and I've never used one. People always ask how well works and I tell them "personally I've never used one, but they sell well and they don't get returned often", so your opinion would be appreciated.

I'll throw a $100 bill at him and see if he bites

http://killeen.craigslist.org/tls/4651288669.html

Forgot this sorry

I told this guy I might be interested in this anvil for $100-150. It's a Phoenix, got a little damage but said it has a nice ring. Any experience with Phoenix anvils guys? For $100 I can't go too wrong, and I already have my 150# tfs. Just want opinions.

What's the price? Que es el precio?

I'm jealous, not that I need it, but doesn't mean I don't want it!

To keep up the end weight for chopping you may not want to do the taper.

Con esta yunque es una diferencia grande con una yunque de London o un otra yunque. Dime que piensas de esta yunque.
 
This is a large anvil with anvil anvil London or other difference. Tell me what you think of this anvil.

Just like wootz steel separates from it's contaminants when it reaches liquid stage, seems like wrought would do the same. So if I understand right, once it melts and separates it is no longer wrought iron. The silicates and slag inclusions in wrought would seperate from the iron and it would be the heavier iron on the bottom and the crud on top. No longer metalurgically wrought iron. I think that's right, or what the others are saying. Feel free to correct if wrong

My only advice is don't do a hollow grind. A convex edge will cut much better. You probably already know that.

I've read people taking about epoxy empregnated cord handles. I want to try it out. However I just have a couple questions. What cordage works well for this? Is paracord good for this? If not what is? What kind of epoxy do you use? A single stage slow drying would be nice, but may not be best. Lastly, what method of impregnation do you use? Literally soak it in epoxy or what? Thanks! Yous da cooliest.

Hey guys I'm building a small portable propane forge. Mostly because I've never used one! I'm using 12" black stove pipe for the body, 2 layers of 1" kaowool and a satanite lining. My main question is, is a diffuser necessary in a NA burner? It's only going to be 1ft long so I'm using a small weed burner, it had a big bell shaped 2" burner tip on it. I took this off because it's huge. I'm gonna use the current threads and a 3" 3/4 black iron nipple and a 3/4 cap threaded to fit the end of the burner as a tip (this is my rough idea). I would drill a series of holes on the cap facing back at the burner in a circular pattern spaced from the threads. Then a series of holes along the nipple for the first half of its length. Just for it to draw air from. Never built a burner before, read a little on it, but had the burner and didn't feel like hunting all the parts to build a new one. So after my senseless rambling, is a diffuser necessary in the burner tip? I understand the turbulence mixes the gas and oxygen, but is it a noticeable performance enhancer? Feel free to berate, chastise or criticize. However, please explain what's better and why.

If your ever near Waco hmu!

My shop is a metal building with board and batten over the metal sides. Makes quite a difference in hot Texas.

 
What part of Texas?