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double_edge2

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Posts posted by double_edge2

  1. new to punching/slitting hot steel with a press, i have a question or two....and later will have more probly...

    for example 25mm bar to slot,..

    1) tool , h13 , geometry,...do i forge/shape as a slitter?

    is it best to go right through in one pass or two and not turn the steel,
    ie:...if i turn after one 95% pass, side b looks non the better for ware trying for a wad.

    speed is slow, hence the two passes for a cooling and lube.


    all good got some answers thanks.

    post-4920-0-15885000-1291967684_thumb.jp

  2. only had a couple come loose,,,handle right in hard, wedge on the diagonal , test, then, a few drops of oil (linseed or machine), some taps and trim...

    the oil in dry climates slows the shinking of the timber, and the handle coming loose, ...dont know about soaking before you fit and wedge...i thought better after, to help lock it in, .....(I used to wedge straight, then someone said something about the stress's in the eye)...another can of worms maybe....


  3. hey, i'm new to this forum but l have looked everywhere for borax flux/ez weld/weld easy powder used for firewelding and cannot find any in England, does anybody know where i can get any?? (the only place l've found any is in america)thanks


    im in oz, borax here is about $3.50au in woollies. ya get desperate, you pay post ill send ya a tub.
  4. just one of my very few thoughts...

    looking at their work, and the way its done, i think anyone could learn something... if they wanted to. that they are a good teacher aswell...phew!
    im jealous of the other aussie,(being able to afford the trip and tuition fares and time, good on him!).....lol. (and if all were available to me at one time, id be bugging them for a lesson, no matter what i thought i knew.. and can usually always be improved upon)
    i learn alot from what they and others post on here, i can imagine how much more would be gained from guided attendance and the practice.


    .....nothin to see here now .....move along!......lol


  5. Making scrolls for me has never come easy. Practice, a pile of scrolls and still frustration. To make a scrolling jig first you must develope the perfect form and the right size for your project. Some just grab a piece of metal,start banging on it and WALAH! a perfect scroll. I like to it draw first then form to my sketch. Her lies another problem, I sketch like a 3rd grader, even after numorous drafting classes.

    In the latest AABA news letter our editor Dan Jennings with inspiration from Jerry Fuller posted this nifty apperatice. After seeing it I had a AHHA! moment and new I had to have one. So I dropped everthing and went off to make it.

    First you need a aluminum pizza pan. I used a 14" one I got from a resturant supply company, It cost $7.00. Next you need a 3/8"x 2" elevator bolt which I got from Ace Hardware $2.80. Then found the center of the pan and JB welded it to it.

    After it drys attach it to a variable speed drill,(If you have one with a adjustable trigger, it will work best.) at about 250rpm to 500rpm. Put it in a vise and masking tape some paper to the pan, start it going and put a pencil in the center and move it toward the edge. You will need to play with it to get the feel for it.

    I feel now I have been able to conquer my scroll phobia and one less thing to discuss with my therapist. <_<






    yeah look, that ugly non stylish platen clashes with the color of your drill gun, and just doesnt come near the shiny ally tray, ...just doesnt suit the shop,,,better send it to me.

  6. I like mine on a stand so I can work 360 around my vice. If it is in my way I pick it up and move it. Base is 2 inch x 36 inch plate Post is a freight car axle. All free material




    now thats a stand, mine is a bit lighter and similar with a 30mm disc as the base and a small 40mm-50mm thick, about 250mm dia. smackerometer plate at the top. the post on mine is boxed in c chan. best comprimise between dont want it to move, but can move it, on a workshop floor.
  7. its a fire pot? go down to supercheap and get the cheapest mild rods sized to suit the house power/welder, (i use 2.4, 2.6) v the joins with a grinder and give to it. root pass and grind out any stuff ups, and 3 runs + till its full....and a bit.

    i use 6mm, 10mm and 1/2", along with anything else i find scrap, never had one come back.

    works for me.

  8. could play hang man with it, weld a link for cable or chain to the drift, heat the whole thing to about a dull or so orange, cool the drift, give it a whack then let it drop short on the chain,? weld and lever?
    gear puller welded to the drift and oxy the surround? (re drill if it snaps)(porta power good, not good at heat)
    or are you trying to save the tool?

    big air tool from the other end if there was a hole all the way through?

    i do the weld, heat, cool, and rip out, thing or throw in bin method for small stuff.

    maybe use coke/coal dust or charcoal grind? or any other high tech anti-stickerometer stuff? were you using a non sticker type stuff?

    biggest ive drifted by hand was four inches...made sure lots of dust(non stick).


  9. Don't worry about soak time, just get it to temp and let it cool down. "The book" is often talking about a large block so they leave it in the draw furnace for a long time. In industry a "tool" is often a couple cubic feet or more and weighs 1000 pounds.

    Ask Frosty, I think he has "cubic feet"!


    the shoes for the cubic feet disorder would be expensive?

    i only let it soak, to soak, by that i mean when i think the heat has soaked through (or the piece is evenly heated i do the air thing then the temper in the oven and do the garlic bread. (with melted jarlsburg).

  10. I use a mixture of Kahlua, Jamoca Almond Fudge ice cream and half and half. Keeps me lubricated

    AND I get the four food groups:

    Alcohol
    Cholesterol
    Caffeine
    and Chocolate!


    and id throw in a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, just for the exra vitamins..(only with Jarlsburg cheese!)

    and who had the condensed milk sangas?

    and my punch didnt heat treat right, on a side note, well...wrong treat for that steel...the punch knocked about a 2mm ledge in the steel then pretended is was a rivet head, so not sure what he used steel wise, (mighta been 4140 that i anealed, being the wrong process for the wrong steel) but we'll know when he takes it to the electronmicro bloke. i give him some h13 so we know what it is this time.
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