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I Forge Iron

double_edge2

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Posts posted by double_edge2


  1. I have made nails to be used in a crucifixion sculpture and for the stations of the cross (both in a Roman Catholic church).

    Since I'm Jewish, it seemed especially weird. :unsure:

    For the clamp type header (and a lot of other things) I use a business card as a shim between the two jaws when I drill the hole. That way the resulting hole is just a shade smaller than the drill bit and will contact the work before the jaws contact each other.



    shim....was the word. i did a bit of a pic seq. on this one...please excuse the dodgy workmanship...for the rivet, you cut the pre determined lengths, 45mm shaft plus head stock for this block, heat and whack. as fciron explained, you dont really need a bottom, as it grips well enough from the use and removal of the shim while drilling.



    ..

    post-4920-0-52489500-1299354564_thumb.jp

    post-4920-0-98463800-1299354568_thumb.jp

    post-4920-0-14514900-1299354574_thumb.jp

    post-4920-0-72777900-1299354579_thumb.jp

    post-4920-0-88779600-1299354584_thumb.jp

    post-4920-0-15299400-1299354590_thumb.jp


  2. I used to lay a flat bar on the anvil and the tongs on across that, kinda like a teeter-totter. Now I take the hot slug (rivet) with no head on it, drop it in the hole and rock the tongs up a little so that the rod is sticking out about the same on each side and smack it and form both heads at the same time! Piece-O-cake!



    yeah but youre good!....im only ok at it...lol


    and i like the domed rivet look.

  3. I built a piece to go in the vice like double egde 2 It can make 1/4",3/8",and 1/2". I use it a lot. worth the time I added a piece of angle iron to each side so when I open the vice it stays there and I gust remove the finished rivet.



    yep yep....they rock! only mine is 6, 8, and 10 mm.

  4. In that video, does the rivet simply stay in place with the vise holding it ( because i would have thought that it would slip through with that force ) but i may be completely wrong... or is there something i am missing.Because with a header, there is something supporting it ie. the bulk of stock that will be the nail/rivet head, that one makes if they use a header

    alec

    p.s great stuff dave!!



    yep even friction....the holes are drilled with card in place to allow for grip when finnished. hit as hard as you like.

    and sorry, ...nice nails dave
  5. one is pointing east, and the other is aimed south....they have to point the perpendicular axis of the equinox for the correct magnetic alignment....and best rust proofing properties taking advantage of the correct use of the polar magnetic resinance...thing...stuff!

    there was another post like this....

    .....a "blacksmith" came over and said i was a hobbyist cos my anvil was the wrong way round (he could tell by the orientation of the anvil)...he moved it to suit him....which was fine by me.....and i move it to suit me. sit it any way you please and feel comfortable with.

    the only thing i could come up with as an argument, would be for beginners to have the horn point right...less likelyhood of removing fingers if a tool is left in the hardy by a right handed forgetfull, and the shoulder over the job for hammering thing.

    i draw out on the horn, so it suits me to the right....or if im punching alot, ill put the holes closer to the forge (horn left).

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