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Gijotoole

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Everything posted by Gijotoole

  1. Wwwwwwwwwwinnuh!! I'll get to work on my hardening/tempering, too. I have some coil springs and a truck axle shaft. Do either of those have the potential to be a cold chisel? I can look for other car parts but that's about it for steel. I have access to a bunch of old hex keys, up to 2cm. I think those are tool steel. S2?
  2. I have an ASO that I got from an acquaintance which i use for my metal-on-a-stick-impacting-hot-things but it's most certainly iron and of poor composition, probably a harbor freight weight. My "shop" is a bunch of landscaping forms stacked up on the weekends so I can do the afforementioned activity. I can probably break the welds off the legs but I don't have anything to cut the plate, so I'll probably have to keep it on for now. I'll certainly hold on to it for a while, though. Thanks for the input.
  3. okay then. I will restore it by making a bottom fuller, cut-off hardy, and continuing with my punch and chisel sets. I still need a log...
  4. Wow, I'm really sorry I derailed the thread for a while there. I understand Mr Powers had nothing to do with the comment edit, sorry for that, too. The anvil has a big chunk taken off the tip of the round horn and it's beat up pretty badly. There are rather large pits on the top and the edges have some decent sized gouges. I'm going to take a grinder to the horn, if I can find a grinder, and see what I can do to dress the face and edges without removing too much material. I'll look at the accepted "restoring etiquette" for these things. The stump-ish object shouldn't be too hard to find as there is a fairly large logging operation going on in the nearby woods. I'll probaby just cut off the legs and use the plate to cover the top of the log, maybe bolt it down. Again, thanks for the help and let's forget about that other thing...
  5. Seriously, way easier to do stuff in the States.
  6. I have a zoeller mod sidearm burner. Most people in southern germany don't have air conditioning, so the "heating/AC" thing is more like heating/open the windows. Most Americans don't understand how we can get pretty much anything back in the states but it's almost impossible to get stuff here. Case-in-point: there isn't anywhere within 90 minutes that sells black sch 40 or 80 pipe retail. The biggest I can get is 3/4" and it's all galvanized. Even then, the parts to make a burner aren't "normal" plumbing (reducers, "t" fittings, plugs...) It's a really long story, guys. I did some calcs and found that if I use this steel trash can with 2" of wool all around, the chamber is 260-is in3. Zoeller recommends no more than 350 for his burners so I should be okay for what I'm doing (still starting out). Mr Coe, I'll revisit your site and check out your instructions. Thanks for the help.
  7. Mr Powers, can you re-edit my post so it doesn't look like I was swearing, please? I did not. I feel bad that my earlier comment was "x"d out. Sorry for that. I was trying to convey that the item in question has seen some serious misuse and the stand is in poor condition. I tried to attach a pic earlier, I'll try again. It was not Mr Powers, and you were swearing for the first one, the second was a rude cholce of wording. The offending words have been replaced with X's as is IFI policy, showing your post has been edited. You were also sent a notice informing you of this action about 50 minutes ago.
  8. i'll have to brace it underneath. The steel plate-like stand is all bent up, like it got run over by something. I'l check sparks this weekend. Thanks for the help.
  9. It says 35k 0/11. I dug it out of a scrap pile. It has no hardy or pritchell and has been beat the XXXX up. The stand XXXX, too.
  10. Ladies and Gentlemen, What is the ideal lining thickness for ceramic wool material? I see most people use 2" and some forges are sold using 1". I'm trying to find out the right size of container to use and need to know what goes on the inside. I am thinking of using the 5 gal bucket on Zoeller's website because I don't have any access to welding equipment. I think it will need at least 2" of wool, though, as the chamber created is too large for one burner. People around here don't discard propane or freon tanks, either, so those aren't really an option. Could I use 1" and cover it with a half inch of refractory and then hit it with an IR wash? What's the difference with another inch of wool? Thanks for the help.
  11. Are these any good? I don't have the stuff to make a good one and by the time I pay for supplies and shipping I'll almost have one paid for. I'm thinking their little wide-mouth one. I'm still new at this hobby. I live in Germany and stuff (everything) is hard to come by.
  12. Bump. I'm using some vermiculite board to shield the hot spot from the concrete, which has helped improve the life of my concrete on the sides, but would painting plistix on the inside of the chamber act the same as painting it on some castable? I can get fireplace mortar that's good to 3000, would that work in place of cast able also? I hit the search button again, thanks.
  13. From Bamberg, Germany! Thanks for all the help all of your members have been!!!
  14. I looked-up bisque firing-recommended cone4-8 temps. That's over 2k*. I don't have a device or know how to regulate that high of a temp. I don't have a pyrometers nor do I have a thermal-regulator-solenoid-thingy. Crap. I actually caught my concrete on fire for a little bit today. I'm going to hold off for a bit until I get my pressure guage.
  15. I can find schamottemörtel, which is fireplace mortar, that has a 1400*C max temp and sold in 5 kilo bags. Can I just mix this with some sawdust for insulating bricks? I can build a brick form pretty easily but I don't know how to fire them. How about a fire pit with some charcoal? I could also just pour/ram it between the hard bricks and the concrete I have now. I'll use the search button a bit more to see what I can dig up.
  16. So could I use ceramic blanket between the hard bricks and the concrete and coat the hard bricks with metrikote? Is that the same as using a castable refractory? If I went that route, would I still need to coat the blanket to avoid airborne (GERONIMO!!) fibers?
  17. Mr Coe et al, The ytong (aerated concrete) I have now, although falling apart rather expeditiously, is cheap and easy to get. If I replaced the interior of my forge with ceramic blanket and coated with metrikote or plistix while keeping the shell as-is with the ytong, would that serve the same purpose at a standard barrel-type forge? The concrete is very easy to cut and the local hardware shop has it in massive supply. Mr Coe's prices make the ceramic blanket and metrikote/plistix very attractive. I appreciate the help from all of you. I still have problems sleeping at night before a day with an open schedule (filled-in with heating metal). This is great!
  18. Mr Coe, What would the price be for 1 pint of metrikote to apo, AE 09139?
  19. Has anybody heard of Matrikote or used it? If Kaolin clay turns into ceramic after firing, can I use ceramic tiles to line the forge walls inside the chamber?
  20. My pic is my forge. I live in Germany and it's relatively impossible to find stuff on Google over here. The setup I have now is three and a half 4x9x1" hard fire bricks, to make the chamber, with a vermiculite ceiling. The entire thing is surrounded with ytong, an aerated concrete, to form an insulative case around the chamber. The bricks are heating up real fast, glowing for quite a while after the gas is shut off, but the ytong is baking and falling apart at a rapid pace. I have used this twice and I should probably replace my faceplate to the chamber. The vermiculite is baking right through and is falling apart like crazy. I have pretty much cooked the whole thing a few times. The temp is about 40* here and I use scrap to warm the anvil before I start striking. I think I'm just going to give up on welding until I get back to the states. At least I can gnd some good stores there. Shipping costs are killing me. Any more suggestions are appreciated.
  21. I know these have a different purpose, but I'm trying to find a way to get my brick forge hotter. Everybody uses itc, but it'd pricey and hightemptools charges more to ship it to me than it costs. I have heard plistix isn't as good, either. I can't find metrikote anywhere on the forum. I'm using a zoeller mod sidearm-no guage so I'm not sure what psi I'm at but it's full open backed off 4 turns on a bayou 0-30. I did s bit with Tom McGinnis over a year ago, to make a couple hawks, and he uses a blown burner. Do I need forced air to reach the right temps? I'm just starting this craziness so I can't get HH6 to tie off on the full-up forge layout. That, and I'm probably not supposed to be doing this in my backyard. Thanks for the help, all of you handsome, kind, burly, wickedly smart and talented prople.
  22. I have access to a 10x20 Verm board (26€) at the hardware store. Can I use this or should I try and find the powder. Adding to the pain is the fact that I can't leave my forge in place, it has to be taken apart and then rebuilt when I want to use it. I live on a small chunk of US soil in Germany-different rules.
  23. I'll look into some sort of barrier material that will still help insulate the hard bricks. Can I use sand? I'll try ashes-gives me a reason to have some fires.
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