Sam Falzone

Hi Brian, Sorry for the confusion. I've read on your other posts about you making hammers for other people so I thought you made hammers to order too. I shouldn't have just assumed. Again, my apologies. You're right on that point that other hammer makers don't send instructions with their hammers either. But, as far as I know Hofi is the only one who has made his hammer to be used specifically with his hammering technique - they're two sides of the same coin. And it's this ergonomic technique that is a major draw for some smiths ... like me ... that is, smiths who want to learn how to hammer effectively and not mess up their joints. I'm already experiencing some elbow pains, and I bought into Hofi's hammer hoping to learn this technique (which was strongly recommended by many smiths on IFI). I was very disappointed when I got no information about the technique at all with my hammer - not even a photocopied pamphlet. I guess my point is that if we are going to recommend the Hofi hammer to new smiths, I think we should also inform them that buying the hammer will not include the technique - they're going to have to buy both parts separately. I have to admit that if I had known that, I probably would not have bought the hammer in the first place - I would have explored other avenues. I'm happy to have a high quality hammer in my kit, but had I known then what I know now, I could have bought 2 Nathan Robertson hammers instead.

Yeah ... I found out about the DVD at the end of a YouTube video where Hofi talks about his hammers (the video gave absolutely no useful information about how the hammering system works though). So now ... after shelling out OVER $150.00 (after shipping) for this new hammer, I have to shell out more money for the "instruction manual"? That's 2 hits to my wallet ... I got a problem with that. I don't appreciate those kinds of marketing tactics. I realize Hofi hammers are hand made high quality tools, but I think that it should at least come with a pamphlet or instruction booklet explaining how to use the hammer properly. People could still choose to buy the DVD afterwards if they need a more visual tutorial. As much as I respect all that Hofi has done to revitalize the blacksmithing trade and pass on his skill, I have to say that this experience has not left a great impression on me, especially when I think about what other tools I could have bought with that money instead. Instead I just ended up with a high-priced hammer in my tool box which I still don't use as often as my other hammers. I do use it, and I'll probably, gradually, use it more often (since I did pay a lot of money for it), but I don't think I'll ever buy another Hofi hammer. For my future hammers, I'll probably look to Nathan Robertson or maybe even Brian Brazeal - I like the look of these hammers and I'm interested to find out how they feel. But I probably won't buy another Hofi.

Hofi hammers are very well made, high quality tools ... BUT ... The Hofi hammer design is just HALF of the whole hammering technique Hofi created. The hammer and technique combined are supposed to be a more efficient way of using your strength and energy while hammering. The thing is that if you shell out the dough to buy the hammer - you don't automatically get the technique with it (no pamphlet, DVD, website or anything) - you have to find out what the technique is on your own (... at least that's been my experience). Personally I don't have the disposable income to go to Israel to learn from Hofi himself, and I can't right it off as a business expense or investment (blacksmithing is just a hobby for me, not a carreer) ... and living in Canada, I don't really get much opportunity to go see him when he is in the US teaching. So without training in the technique, the Hofi hammer amounts to just another hammer design. Some people may be able to adapt to it instinctively, others don't. I don't. What it comes down to is that you are going to hear reference to a lot of different hammer designs and hammer makers - Hofi, Tom Clark, Brian Brazeal, Nathan Robertson, german pattern, swedish pattern, japanese pattern, ball peen, straight peen, cross peen, diagonal peen, etc. Find a hammer you are comfortable with and learn to use it well, regardless of the price, pattern or whose name is on it. As your skills improve and you want to expand your experiences, and you fave the finances (supported by your skills hopefully ) to experiment with different tools, then you can indulge yourself. Remember the skill should be in the hand holding the hammer ... not in the hammer itself or the name on the hammer. Cheers.

Thought I would finally get around to posting some pictures of the projects I made at Touchstone last week. -The grill iron sold at auction - I was pretty proud that someone actually wanted to buy it and I was glad the money went to Touchstone. -The meat turners will be gifts for my dad, my father-in-law and a friend of ours. The twists aren't perfectly even but I still like the effect. -The punches were fun and most importantly of all ... I finally learned how to heat treat and temper tools !!! We made them from car springs - some are even made of bits of car spring i found on the beach in Newfoundland. -The large tools I assisted Glen Hor (the teacher) in making. The nail header has holes for square nails and round rivets (the nail there is the first one I made with my new tool). The hammer is modeled after the Mastermyr hammer pattern for my living history kit - it's made of W1 steel from a jack hammer bit and the face and pean are both hardened (I know the originals weren't made of alloy steel or face hardened but this isn't their hammer ... it's MY hammer). The hot cut hardy tool was also made by Glen (assisted by me on the sledge hammer). I still have to do the final grinding and heat treating. I hope you all like the photos - I had a great time and hope to go again next year. Sam

YUP ... at that price you're only going to get a 70lb NC Big Face - minus the shipping.

Hi Folks. I know Brian started this thread back in February but I only just saw it today. Brian - I really love that whole "photo blueprint" you did. It looks amazingly effective. There wasn't a single stage where I didn't understand what you were doing or how you got there. I found that even more easy to understand than some videos I've watched. Thanks so much. I want to save that whole filmstrip for my own library - would you be okay with that? Sam.

Thanks Jim ... and thank your wife for me too The video snip was great - wish they showed more of the forge though. Still, I would visit Bukhara JUST to see that forge ... but I hear the rest of Bukhara is beautiful too. Thanks again.

I know what you mean. There is a much better picture in the magazine. Unfortunately I don't own a scanner (besides I think that would be violating copyright laws or something like that). This picture was all I could find online - I even subscribed to the magazine's e-list and emailed the magazine itself asking to get an electronic copy of the article and photos but they told me they don't have electronic copies of their print articles for their online subscribers. So ... unless these guys are still using the old moveable type printing presses, I think the guy was feeding me a load of bull #@$%.

I don't think I would ever leave.

As you see you're going to get lots of different answers to this question. There is nothing wrong with buying your tongs - some smiths make tools, and other smiths buy tools - one isn't necessarily better than the other. Plus it's a circular argument ... "You should make your own tools." ... BUT ... "You need tools to make your own tools!" I generally presume that beginner smiths are usually going to start off with either round stock or square stock for their first projects, usually in the size ranges from 1/4"- 1/2". So based on that, I recommend v-bit bolt tongs as being the most versatile tongs for someone starting out - v-bits will hold both square stock AND round stock, where as round bits will only hold round stock securely. Bolt style tongs will allow you to hold onto pieces that have curves in them (which can pass through the loop). For starting out I would recommend a pair of 3/8" v-bit tongs - if you are working with slightly larger metal (ie, 1/2" or 5/8") the tongs can be gently adjusted. BUT ... I also recommend that once you have your tongs, then take the time to learn how to make your own (like others have suggested). Making tongs are great practice for all your fundamental skills - drawing out, curving, hammer control, hot cutting, forming, punching, etc. I recommend this site as a great step by step procedure for making your own bolt tongs. http://www.blksmth.c...ong_article.htm Also don't forget that if you work with long enough pieces of steel - I would say anything longer than 14" - you don't really need to use tongs. Allow for a longer length if you are using a gas forge. Hope this helps.

That is a sweet anvil - great condition Not exactly a stellar deal - though not an unreasonable price either. Hope it goes to a good home. Thanks for sharing.

I had to share this discovery with everyone. I'm still stunned by how beautiful this forge is. This picture is of Shokir Kamalov, a master smith in Bukhara, and his forge. I found out about this from one of my wife's craft magazines. This master blacksmith is famous for his hand crafted bird-shaped scissors. A forge space like that can't be anything but INSPIRING. I'm in complete forge-envy.

But that anvil is still more than useable ... looks to be pretty big too considering the stuff in the background for scale. You don't have to have a horn to work steel. The other anvils people posted were UGLY AND USELESS pieces of scrap that their deluded owners actually thought they could get money for. This one unfortunately falls under the category of perfectly useful but weird-looking. Anyone know what they were asking for it? OH ... $100.00 ... didn't scroll all the way up the last time. I don't think that's a bad deal for a perfectly serviceable anvil. Anyone know someone in Rhode Island looking for an anvil?

I got back from Touchstone yesterday. What a fantastic week!!! I took Glen Horr's "Irons in the Fire" course and it was amazing. Glen is a fantastic blacksmith and a great teacher. Though listed as a beginner class, two of us (out of 4) had previous experience. Glen would demo a specific skill or technique and then let us loose for the rest of the day to practice what we learned and/or persue other smithing. Glen was also willing to work with us on any project we wanted to try. I learned so much this week ... I learned how to work with tool steel I finally learned how to heat treat and temper I got to work on a power hammer I learned how to make tongs I learned how to make tools, and so much more. I've never done so much smithing in so short a time. I made some steak turners (presents for family), 6 punches, a hot chisel, a nail header, a viking grilling iron (which sold at auction), a scroll adjustment tool, and helped make a mastermyr style hammer, and helped make an anvil hardie hot-cut (all out of a jackhammer bit - W1 steel). Touchstone is an amazing place - the blacksmith studio had 12 complete forge stations and the master forge was a beautiful stone forge (wish I had pictures but my camera died on me), and we had access to every tool I could imagine. I'm definitely planning to go again next year. I would recommend this to EVERYONE, no matter what your experience level. I'm still sore ... but it feels so great. Sam

I agree. I've seen worse edges than that, the top face looked good and if it rebounds well and sounds solid, then you've done real good. Welcome to the addiction

Well that's a new one for me. Thanks for sharing ... I like interesting things.

Thanks Frosty Punching is one of the things that are going to be covered in the class I'm taking at Touchstone next week ... I leave Saturday and I can't wait !!! Sweet!

My grilling iron is 5" across. I don't know if there is a diameter it "SHOULD" be, I think I would like my next one to be around 6" across ... so one more coil around. Remember that it's supposed to be made of flat bar stock, so save yourself the work of having to flatten round bar. Cheers and good luck on your demo.

Oh the options boggle the mind ! Heck ... check this action out .... a forge with the bellows installed UNDER the firepot. Talk about the epitome of "space saver" ... sweet And foot operated too !!!

If you're looking to make primarily knives and other bladework, try looking for a local metal supplier and ask how much a block of tool steel will cost. Maybe something along the lines of 4"x4"x12" or 5"x5"x12", or as long as you like. Many bladesmiths use block anvils like that (eg. Japanese swordsmiths) because you don't really need the horn or other features found on traditional anvils, just a good flat face (and nice clean edges on a new block of steel are just a bonus). I bet you could get quite a chunk of steel for $160.00 - instead of a beat up old Vulcan. And a tool steel block anvil will last you forever ... or so. Think about it

I think I've got you guys beat... how's this baby? The seller wants $400.00 for it ... I'm not kidding ... I couldn't make stuff like that up ... :blink:

You bet Phil ... but I still wouldn't turn my nose up at an ASO if that was the ONLY thing I could get. The sooner you actually learn and practice the skills you need and want, the sooner you can use those skills to facilitate the purchase of better tools (by making stuff to sell for example). Life is to short to sweat about the details ... Hammer, Fire, Hot Steel, Something to hit it on ... the rest is details

Rebound on a mild steel anvil sucks rocks, frankly ... but the upside is that a mild steel anvil is much quieter. You do have to work a bit harder with a mild steel anvil - especially a small one like mine, but learning good hammering techniques and tricks can compensate a bit, and the smith has to listen to what his or her body is telling them ... stop when tired and take a break, stretch before doing any work, drink lots of water, etc. (but this applies to ALL smiths, no matter what anvil you're using). But like I said, the advantage is a quieter work space so there is less chance of hearing loss or annoyed neighbours. So weigh the pros and cons ... everyone will make their own choices and decisions.

I love it when people say "buy a real anvil" - it just makes me shake my head and laugh. A farrier style, or a London-pattern, or an Austrian-pattern or a German-pattern, etc, etc, are not the only REAL anvils out there. My first anvil was a 5"x5"x5" block of mild steel ... and it IS a REAL ANVIL ... still use it to this day. Are they going to try and tell Brian that his plate design anvil isn't a real anvil? Are they going to tell Dodge that his CNC anvil isn't a real anvil ... just because it's made of mild steel? I DON'T THINK SO !!! I've seen people blacksmith on a chunk of granite, and for that time and that purpose it was a REAL anvil. A piece of advice to all the new smiths just starting out ... Use what ever you got that will get the job done - tool steel, mild steel, railroad track, forklift tine, drops or rocks ... if you hit hot metal with a hammer on it, then it's an anvil. Sure if you're looking to make a LIVING out of this trade, then a certain pattern or style of anvil may be an investment for your business. But if smithing is just going to be a hobby for you (like me) then don't let other people's hang-ups discourage you ... they don't need to become your hang-ups too. Have fun and pound some hot steel.

Thomas what does "temper as appropriate" mean? All of my experience so far has been just "forming". I've no experience making tools, especially tools that need to be hardened or have a cutting edge, so all this is new to me. Can you elaborate for me? And remember, I'm a total blank slate here