highlander

brake drums are cast iron, so you cant weld it. my brake drum forge uses 2 inch pipe. i found a 2 inch flange to use, and drilled new holes to mount it on. use stainless steel bolts on it, you dont want zinc coated bolts near fire.

very nice!! cant wait to see how they turn out!

Finally finished it. Handle is high grade epoxy putty with a thick outer coating of urethane spray to insulate the knife from electric shock. These type knives are used by us electricians for various things, and I wanted to make a larger one that fits in my hand properly. OAL is about 8 inches and was made out of automotive coil spring.

the home depot by me sells up to 2 inch pipe and fittings. dont use galvanized, and dont use zinc coated bolts to hold everything together. use stainless steel.

What you need: Metal. Something to heat the metal with. Something to hit the metal with. Something to put the metal on while you hit it.

louisville valley village forge william foster those are all i can think of with two Ls in the name. Post pictures and someone will be able to identify it

I paid 31.95 for one pint of ITC-100 most of the brown liquid that was in both containers has leaked out.

my question is the brown liquid that leaked out..... is the itc ruined because its not in there?

i tried this once. you have to get them extremely hot in order to straighten the nipper jaws. once it starts cooling, stop and reheat and straighten more. work fast and reheat often, or you will crack it like i did. as per hardness of the nippers, im no expert but i would think that if the metal is hot enough you shouldnt have too many troubles/

the dent shouldnt have effected the itc100, as it was at the corner where the missousu was. however, the jarring force of the box hitting the ground or whatever it hit may have shaken the itc100 up some. i still dont feel very good about the packaging of it. I was under the impression i was getting a factory packaged product.

I purchased some missousu and itc-100 a few weeks ago and it just finally came in the mail today. the one corner of the box was damaged, so before opening i grabbed my camera to document everything. I ordered one pint of ITC-100. It was sent to me in these two 1/2 pint containers, sealed with MASKING TAPE. I was expecting the factory packaging, not this hack job. Beings that this brown liquid has leaked out of both the containers(there is still some in there, but by the looks of everything, a lot has leaked) I am not sure if the ITC-100 is still good to use, or if that liquid is a necessary component. As it stands, I am NOT pleased whatsoever with Ellis Custom Knifeworks, whom I ordered the materials from. I left a message on their answering machine, and I will wait for a phone call. The missousu i ordered seems to be in good shape.

looks a lot like a trenton to me, but others will be posting after me that may know better.

andy, you can try wrapping the waist of the anvil with chain to deaden down the ringing and save your ears. i do this and wear hearing protection, but do whatever is best for you, JUST BE SAFE.

interesting railing around your slack tub. what's its purpose?

i have this stanco apron: Stanco Manufacturing i use it when grinding, welding, and forging. blocks sparks and heat very well. one thing is, until its well broken in, dont wear anything light colored under it, as when you sweat, the orangeish dye bleeds onto whatever is under it. i have a few white tshirts that are orange in some spots from it, but atleast they dont have burn holes in them.

use a heater stick for car engines, direct a halogen spot light on the anvil(make sure the spotlight is very close to the anvil for it to heat up) make sure you let the heat soak a good bit, dont want the center to still be frozen and crack under your hammer blows.

sounds like you have too much in your work area. what i do is i keep the tools that are most used close by, and less used farther and farther away. the stuff i very rarely use goes in a pile in the corner or in drawers, so i know if i dont use it often, im gonna have to dig for it. if i do use it often, it should be close by.

Those anvils are meant to be used, not collected, so you are wrong in that statement. You dont have to show off the size of your wallet by saying that "these anvils cost more than all your stuff." Next time, just post the pictures and call it a day. Hold the greater-than-thou attitude, please...

O/A rig for $75, needs new hose but thats an easy fix.

couldnt tell ya, as i try not to get things on me that might stain. plus its hard to spill solidified wax on yourself.

if i had heated it hotter, it would have. i like the natural patina to show, so i heat the piece in an old toaster oven i have so its all the same temp, then i take it out and brush the wax on and it just melts and runs down into little cracks and crevices. i coat the whole ting with that and hand buff to a shine. i heat the piece to 300 and its the perfect temp to brush the wax on with very little smoking. go hotter if you want to have some burn on to darken the color.

i have an old unknown london pattern and my antique mousehole. the mousehole is sitting bagged up in oil for storage to keep it protected.

aye, i treated the two i made with melted on johnson's paste wax to keep the rust away. seems like it would be a good seller.

just made it today, so not really other than seeing if it would fit on all my belts properly. i'll wear it all day tomorrow and see if i need to make any adjustments. looks like its gonna be a useful one.