trying-it

Just a thought, but some of those "few dings and chips out of the edges" may actually have been placed there on purpose by a previous owner/user. Use the anvil as is and see if occasionally those dings and chips work in your favor.

I once machined a brand new vanadium cast anvil (raw casting, never trued B4 I started) and did a BP on that. Once done I took that anvil on a southern trip and showed it to Bill Epps as I wanted a few"proper" radiused edges applied by a real pro. Bill grabbed an angle grinder and sander and placed various sized radiused corners on appropriate edge places; then proceeded to grind a few grooves and notches along the edge here and there. Once finished, Bill looked me square in the eye and said, "and now I will show you how to use them too". Thanks Bill they do come in handy for "special" tasks.

Pete LYME is nasty suff. Knee mail your way from Clara and I. Pal saying Get-Well soon is an understatement from me. Get 'er done so we can share some more time and fire together soon!

I wanna see that old lathe neighbor and I bet we can make it turn chips again as good as new. Just give me a yell and I about live in IFI chatroom. I am heading to an out-of-state hammerin in a few hrs and back home here probably on 14th. I am passing thru Effingham area on way back home. I left you a private messeage (PM) with my email address. Just email me and I could maybe email back my cell# and link up with you soon. Did I fail to mention that I just love machines, LOL Stan

I was thinking more of economical savings and shop space-saving advantages: anvil, dappling block, and a swage block all in one tidy little package! Just needing a good home, tender loving care, and an owner that really cares about saving a small bit of living history!

When you get to be as old and well used as that anvil, how well do you think you will still look? If we start seeing old, worn, and abused items as being worthless, God forbid our wives start reading these forums or we too might be deemed worthless! I would NOT take $200 for this old Mousehole (also lacking a pritchel hole) and although not my main anvil, still find it quite handy to have around. Each and every thought to be defective area can have its own unique qualities and purpose with a little use of imagination!

Real nice! James where did you acquire your artistic smithing skills if you don't mind me asking? OOOPS nevermind, just read your bio and saw the "mostly self taught". That makes you and your works even more impressive now!!!!!!!!

Please say a little prayer for my wife Clara. At 3:30 this afternoon she had a horrific auto accident on the way home from work. Small pickup crossed centerline and wife moved over as far as possible to avoid a head-on crash, but a highway guard rail was on her car's passenger side. Truck completely sideswiped her car and spun her car 180 degrees around on highway. 5 hours taped to a backboard and finally an ok to take her home at 8:45 pm. Other driver received 4 traffic citations and my wife's car is probably total loss. But I reckon God was riding as her co-pilot today and HE allows me to keep her a bit longer. She is badly shaken mentally and bodily heavily bruised, on heavy painkillers, and off work a few days. As many have met my wife, just thought I should share!

I aint saying "WOW".

Let's go with shock and awe!!!!!! Nice and refreshing to see someone really raise the quality bar even higher!

I once took a little off the top of a BIG Peter Wright anvil (.060 - .090) for a nice guy and swordsmith that worked with Daryl Meier. I told him to pay me as much as he thought my services were worth to him. For my services rendered, Dean handed me 4 pattern welded billets he and Daryl had recently made together. I smiled from ear-ear and told him bill was paid in full...... and thanks for the business.

$500 just to mill a A36 block flat? Geeze That is outgareous!!!!

I once stabbed, slabbed, and fried a graphite mold I modified for researchers and only collected $300 for all my services. Mold is used for manufacturing the nose cones for cruise missles.

As for paying more for machining costs than material costs: I can take a cheap little section of 203 stainless shafting (say $20 value) and machine it into a now $300 replacement shaft for a customer that original maufacturers currently charges $500 for.

There is an anvil machining BP in about the 300-400 series. It was complete machining of a brand new russian vanadium anvil that still included an excessively domed face and thick mold seam line surrounding entire anvil.

As for milling in a drill press with an x-y table. Please call me, I want to watch. We need to take pics for BP submission.

I promise not to laugh much when entire setup falls from table breaking toes, etc. However I will charge 2X the price for machining a new drill press spindle for one that gets bent or broken during this learning experience.

1/2" blade, 64-1/2" length.
For most adjusting: Back guide bearings off, Install blade, Adjust each bearing to lightly contact the already properly tensioned blade. Note: Watch top bearings for a small wear groove that appears over time from constant contact with blade. That worn groove will cause blade to drift. Removing bearing and reinstall in opposite position gives you a new bearing contact area. After 2 grooves are worn, pitch bearings and replace with new.

Other blade not tracking true causes: worn blade that may look good - but the tooth "set" is worn off, too excessive of feed rate and/or wrong number teeth/inch on blade for that paticular application. (Other style blades for specific applications too.) I use cheapest blades available for average cutting, but use high quality Lenox brand or similar for long production runs. Blades interchange fast for each cutting application. Old worn blades will still cut wood fast. Broken blades = billet material

For blades jumping off while cuttng, the 2 main wheels may need a little lathe machining to renew surfaces.

There are a few other factors, but I think I hit the main ones now. Hope it helps!

I opened my machine job shop in 1984 and still have all the equipment and tools. Bandsaw was first tool bought, HF quality and price, but not brand. I know it has cut a million or more parts since it was purchased, because I DID a lot of production machining too; 1000 pc runs, etc. Still cuts staright as an arrow if you know how to adjust them right. Is probably on 3rd set of guide bearings and when original motor smoked I replaced with a new 1/2 hp Baldor. Chopsaw here to, but only used on hardened materials or mystery steels.

A few differences:

Bandsaw blades snap and can be used after in billets
Chopsaw blades can and do explode if hidden cracks are lurking inside.

Bandsaw kerf for cutting is 1/16" wide or less, Chopsaws cut 1/8"-1/4" wide and excessively heat both sides of cut area. Multiply # of cuts times cut width to determine how much material is lost per job.

Bandsaws, such as the HF pictured in original post, are designed to cut "DRY". I collect all my nice clean metal dust and keep each specific material flavor seperate as it works great later for powered damascus and hey, it's free.
Chopsaw just throws a bunch of sparks that seem to go where they want and pose a fire threat too.

Bandsaw will cut non-ferrous materials.
Chopsaw, wheel loads with non-ferrous materials and more potential for exploding wheels.

Bandsaw can cut precisely as in the slitting of Fredrick crosses,
Chopsaw doing same???????...... I wanna watch.

Chopsaw alternative, use your angle grinder.

Thanks John, Same link I have, but useful for others with the itch.

John: "Thanks to Mick Maxen who posted a tutorial on how to do this. "

Any chance of posting that link for others' who may feel the mosaic bug biting?

No way trying to hijack your thread, just trying to keep things on the same page.

Nice work John. Be careful those can be fun and highly addictive, but then what do I know LOL.

Congrats on your first born. As Bruce said a few layers of a higher carbon material will result in darker, more dramatic contrasting colors.
But you definately have a keeper there and 1 to be proud of!!!
Have fun and BE safe!

Cold forging here = Forging outside during winter months while standing on frozen mud.

Cold forging in smithing terms is forging materials below working forge temps.

In industrial type settings, car front wheel spindles, for instance, the spindles are cold forged/formed in huge hydraulic presses with multiple form dies; without any need for any type of heat being used during processing. Spindles are complete, less threads.

Howdy and welcome to IFI.

I live in southern Illinois about 70 miles out of St. Louis, Mo, but I visit Joe Rolfe's place near Bastrop/Monroe (NE corner of La.) several times a year. A few IFI members are known to congregate there at times. A great chance to meet others and put a real face to a name.

a quick dip in Muriatic acid will fizz almost instantly if any galv is lurking in there. If it does fizz let it stay in there until it stops.

As for the paint it will just sort of roll off from a short time acid dip. I presoak all my shipping straps in muriatic to remove paint and any rust before stacking into a billet.

Welcome to IFI. Tools may come and go, but the inner fire burns on! Hope to see some pics of your work soon.

This year's hammer-in dates are Aug 14-16 (fri-sun); always 3rd weekend in aug to coincide with Steam Show (thurs-sun) in Pinckneyville, IL.

Note: Steam show has 1 great flea market!!!

This will be our 3rd annual hammer-in. Bring a tent as most regional motels are full due to steam show.

For directions Mapquest zipcode 62274; we are 6.5 miles north of that zipcode on State Rt 127.

If interested in joining the fun here, or for additional information, email me at:

trying_it@hotmail.com

Note: Put "hammer-in" on the subject line.

Welcome to IfI. Yep what comes next is the need for a bigger building to hold your new tools and equipment collection, but that will keep your other skills and talents from getting rusty!!!

Aeneas said:

That is a beautiful cross !
The proprtions are lovely and I love the wood grain finish. I really want to see a blueprint or better yet a video tutorial on how to make these crosses. Anyone know where I can find some?
Sam

For starters you may try these at the following links:

Link removed at the request of anvilfire

Link removed at the request of anvilfire


There are other links online if you do a search for "Fredrick's Cross".

Tom, what did you use to get that wood grain texture? I've used a small cross peen and was satisfied, but it don't look nothing like that. Great job.

My slightly modified version of a Fredrick's split cross. 1" square stock. Roughly 14" total height. All visible color contrasts are process(es) generated and sealed with inside/outside clear enamel. Cross looks close to being made of wood until you lift it up. Base has a sandstone type rough gritty feel/finish with different shades of coloring.

Thankyou Leah Fuller who assisted me in opening this cross (a few years ago) at Joe Rolfe's place. It was a hot and humid evening, but those memories of dear friends working together will remain priceless to me.

It took me a while to finish this project, but I finally did!