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I Forge Iron

trying-it

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Posts posted by trying-it

  1. "God grant me the serenity
    To accept the things I cannot change;
    Courage to change the things I can;
    And wisdom to know the difference.
    Living one day at a time;
    Enjoying one moment at a time;
    Accepting hardships as the pathway to peace;
    Taking, as He did, this sinful world
    As it is, not as I would have it;
    Trusting that He will make all things right
    If I surrender to His Will;
    So that I may be reasonably happy in this life
    And supremely happy with Him
    Forever and ever in the next." ( Serenity Prayer - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia )

  2. Life would be boring if we did not try to find uses for something designed for a specific purpose being used again to our benefit doing something totally different. Whole industries like blacksmithing and recycling (to name a few) could cease to exist if the concept is ever abanoned. Have fun! Be safe!

    I am back to cleaning the mud bugs out of my anvil's sq holes, LOL

  3. When I started this Micarta R&D my wife told me that her rotary fabric cutter and mat she uses for quilting purposes were off limits to me........
    so I bought my own set just to be diplomatic.
    Could be why we are still married with our 30th anniversary coming next month.

  4. I own and use one of Bill Epps' later models that I purchased from him. The end farthest from the pivot point has ground spots for working rounds, pipe etc. However his later models, like mine, have sharpened angles ground close to the pivot end that allow for hot cutting materials. The cutting edge (top & bottom) is 1" long or more. He also added 2 bolt hole positions; lower for smaller items, or raise bolt to next hole and work larger items.

    This tool's options are limited by user's imagination only. Imagine another similar unit with different hole sizes or shapes in both tool halves.

    BTW James nice looking tool you made there!!!!!!!!!!
    Stan

  5. Some new materials have a "sizing" type coating that can cause a few problems. Just as a seamstress will prewash a new fabric before cutting and sewing, prewashing new denim may have to be considered too when used in Micarta batches. R&D will only determine that.

    I prefab molds from light cardboard (cereal boxes, etc) to dimensions that are bigger than finished product needs. Tape all corners for strength and line with plastic wrap. As working time of resin is limited I work fast. Pour some resin in bottom of mold, add a precut piece of material and work it flat into mold bottom with a finger (gloves on of course). Excess resin floats up during building process. Add another piece of material, finger smooth, continue. Add more resin as needed between fabric sheets. Continue layering process till mold is over filled past top. Bring all excess plastic wrap up and over top of stack. Have ready 2 pieces of board cut larger than mold size; place 1 board under mold and 1 on top. Use C clamp(s) to press top board down even with mold top. That should allow for enough material compression. Excess resin is still trapped within confines of materials and plastic wrap, thus can still soak into block before hardening if it can find any voids. If by chance any resin leaks from plastic wrap it will bond with the c'board mold; it is considered expendable and easily sawed, ground, or sanded away during final processing.

    Hope this helps shed a little more light on the subject. Have fun with your R&D and good luck with your knife project. Stan

  6. strantor, thanks for the kind reviews. Starting materials were a couple of new kitchen hand towels; one in black and one a light tan color.

    To me the most interesting aspect of this whole process are the final outcomes from each of the starting materials used. Some colors change slightly (usually darker) while others seem to have a mind of their own. Examples: medium shades of blue just get black, but bright reds may result somewhere between almost black to purples to pinks. A light tan denim (nutmeg or cinnamon) did result in a block that closely resembled walnut hardwood. Blue jean denim and baler twine did not change colors, but did make for a nice color contrasting and patterned block.

    As this thread's original question asked what other types of materials can be used, I am planning to move my R&D into organic type materials such as corn, dried beans, rice, etc. Also plan on trying resin color pigments and various types of dyes/paints on starting materials.

  7. A little additional information for clarity:

    The Damascus Research Team at Southern Illinois University in Carbondale comprised of Robert Griffith, Jim Wallace and Daryl Meier. Brent Kington founded that particular educational program and department. The time frame for their conducted research was actually in late 1960's - early 1970's.

    I know Daryl, Jim, and Brent quite well and consider them all as dear friends.

    This old man was fortunate enough to play in that SIUC smithy for a few semesters (as elective classes) during my recent pursuit of higher education.

  8. Welcome to IFI. You may have "...went against ALL advice and just jumped in with both feet. Built a small forge and started ruining stuff.....and more stuff.....and then more", but I can see that you are definitely holding your own there. I can't wait to see pics with the blade included.

  9. I agree 100% with both previous posts, but want to add a couple additional details.

    #1) Lathe accuracy can be dramatically influenced by how level and securely a lathe bed is in a shop. My 7' lathe will actually flex with the concrete floor as seasonal temperatures change. This allows the ways to twist slightly and only cure is to re level the lathe again (on all axis) to correct precision cutting accuracy.

    #2) One of my first factory machining jobs was to precision grind/profile diamond grinding wheels used in the optical lens field. All grinding was performed on a lathe with a tool post grinder and all radii generated through grinding in the freehand mode. Lathe ways were covered with heavy fabric such as shop apron materials and a strong industrial shop vac system was used to collect as much dust as possible. Before covering the ways, all oil was wiped off/dry. After each grinding operation was completed oil was applied in order to float any remaining dust up and all was wiped off again. Ways were re oiled again for regular typical type machining operations, or wiped dry again to begin grinding another piece.

    Hope this helps!

    BE safe

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