caintuckrifle

Citric acid works just as well and is generally cheaper.

I have the exact same vise except mine is marked 70 and has 5-1/4 inch jaws. I was told mine is a Peter Wright, but i have no way of verifying that. if anyone knows please share. (its actually the vise in my profile photo)

50% Acetone 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid.

On February 25, 2016 at 2:55 PM, coldironkilz said:

Today I got the vise put back together. It's functioning well but as you can see there is a little problem with the jaws.

I have a vise that doesn't line up just like yours. I would actually recommend not fixing it as I find it comes in handy sometimes to have the jaws offset.

I would dare say that's a better set up than most of us started with! Nice finds!

1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said:

I'd like to see a vulcan going for 1/2 the rate of a better quality anvil; I consider them about the lowest quality brand that counts as a real anvil Are Peter Wrights, Trentons, Hay Budden's etc going for US$6 a pound in your area?

I totally agree, I have an anvil that I believe is a "Badger" brand anvil it looks nearly the same as the Vulcan anvils and is constructed the same way. After working on both it and my Peter Wright, it is miserable to work on in terms of rebound not to mention a rather poor shape in several areas.

In my humble opinion it all comes down to what you are willing to pay. As a general rule I personally wouldn't pay more that $4.00 a pound, given the area I live in. You also must factor in the condition and the make of the anvil.  That one comes out to around $3.00 which  I think is high considering the chipping and the fact that it is a Vulcan anvil. I would offer a lower price and see what comes of it. Just my two cents!

I have not though, I really like the mounting bracket tenon system!

Yes just a bit of forging on the horn.

I am certainly well aware that railroad in the horizontal position makes a less than satisfactory anvil, I'd much rather work on my Peter Wrights. That being said, I decided that it would be a fun project. I think it will be useful for some of my other metal hobbies. Machined, forged, hardened and tempered just like the real deal.

I am looking to build a traditional tommy hammer. I am looking for pictures and other information. I have searched the forum and cannot find a lot of information on this topic, but I apologize if this has already been covered. Thanks

Nothing wrong with two drill presses! I personally have three, Just my two cents!

Those are the ones in Pocatello, they all look great to me.

Recently I have been experimenting with some coal available locally. I am noticing that even when I allow the coal to coke properly and  wire brush frequently, I am getting a very rough surface finish. Also keep in mind that I am not overheating the steel or burning it. I am aware that this is a lower grade coal but it appears to coke up and form a mound great. Could it be the coal causing this rough finish, or perhaps something in it? I have never had this problem with coke or other coals that I have used. Any help or insight?

Today I decide to clean up the jaw area on one of my old vises, low and behold I discovered some markings! It appears to say Newton or Newton? Conn. Who was making vises in Connecticut back in the day. If it weren't for the markings I would call it a Peter Wright with 5-1/4 jaws.

Isn't the bottom a Milne Anvil?

I have seen far worse, in my opinion it really is in great shape. I would dress the edges a bit and go to work,

I have heard many different opinions on whether or not post vise jaws should be rounded similiar to an anvil or left sharp. I think many times we don't have too much say due to the condition of the vise. However how do you feel that the edges of the vise jaws should be dressed? I realize to that a big factor is the use of the vise as well.

Thank you so much, this is exactly what I was looking for. Absolutely beautiful shop! Thanks

Hey no one know what a unicorn looks like! I think it looks great, I would just tweak the back legs a bit myself.

There is really no reason to worry about a specific model number, its not like you can order parts anymore. Seems to be complete and functional, put her to work!

These two pictures are likely not the same shop, however I have seen a number of pictures that look like the same shop.
Anyway I really love the shop, and how it is constructed and set up. Can anyone identify who it belongs to? If so I would love to see more pictures!

Thanks, Caintuck

Here in Utah I seem to see a lot of Peter Wrights. Does anyone know why that is?

I really have no experience with new anvils, I work on an old Peter Wright. But the president of our local ABANA chapter recently bought a brand new 300+ Lb Rathole anvil, and it is a dream to work on!

Greetings catdriver! I too am a smith from Utah, if you are not already a member seriously consider becoming a member of our local blacksmith group. We are the Bonneville Forge Council and can be found at http://www.bfcsmiths.com/ . Its not listed on the website but we have a meeting tomorrow if you can make it. This is an amazing group of smiths who are more than happy to help you along and answer any questions that you may have.

Caintuckrifle

Also is that the little Vulcan that was listed on KSL? For starters I would say hit it with a flap wheel and get started smithing, you will figure out what else need to be done as you continue learning. As for welding it can often be expensive and lead to reduced rebound and quality.