Gayle Brooks

Thanks Frosty! :) Some video of how I did the center diamonds. Since they are in halves this might make a little more sense http://youtu.be/HiBVkKHErjw Twisting 3 flats around slit and drifted hole. The tool in the vise helps control where the twist starts as well as keep it off the vise since its a great heat sink The long skinny part on the center sits ontop of the jaws. Made a handle since it was getting warm. Ended up super quenching the end to help with a few more twists. If I do this again I am making this tool a bit more aggressive Jig for the diamond halves almost 80 pieces forged for this whole thing. Have materials for both doors here.

Video of making the scrolls for the top

all in time, sir...All in time (probably a weld on the back then collared)

I forged them. Have a jig and used a couple of bending forks. Thanks! :)

Took some time to prototype some decorative elements for the center This first one was 1" 1/4" sq bar at the 4" long that I started with. And final shape at the end. 1 1/14" square bar at 4" long forge upset tapers Forged the ends down to start the 5 pointed taper and the center is forged down to 3/4" square fullered on the diamond. The radius needed is very close to what these dies are at Nearing the final stages detail shot of the 5 pointed taper where it lives. But we decided for multiple reasons why this element just didnt fit. So I did another version that is a little smaller 4" of 1" bar Left side shows the first step to help avoid the lips when forging tapers. Since I use a power hammer for this part I start a little behind the edge so mass pushes out instead of the outside collapsing and moving faster than the center. Both ends and the center forged down to 3/4" Fullered on the diamond for the radius of the scrolls And here we decided to go with the element on the right

Thanks everyone :) Ill post more pics when something interesting happens. Right now just a lot of fitting, wire wheeling of textured material and filing...gah hate that F word Danger Dillon: The triangle material is the 5/8" sq ripped in half on the diamond. I get some pics of that with that jig soon Ric Furrer: I think I know what you are sayin. Sounds like leaving a 5/8" tip for the rivet and cut from the side and then down the center and hiding that transition in the hole. An idea Ill bring up with the boss!

We have a very large door grill to do. 8' wide by 9' tall. Was going to share some progress pics of the project. I spent a good four days prototyping, making tooling, a full day on the layout, etc. 1/2 x 1 bar with 5/8" square holes slit and drifted This is the lower section of the grill. There will be another slit and drifted bar that goes on top of the rings. The rings get a bronze collar (maybe brass) on the sides covering up that seam. Cant really see much of the layout from this pic but gives a better idea of scale. This is one half and I am laying out my materials for both sides. Using clay, figured out how to do this pyramid. The challenge was two halves of 5/8" bar were poking through. We decided to forge it down to 1/2" at the end and create a shoulder on the inside and a smaller point on the outside. Figuring out the jig. My original idea was not strong enough and parts where moving. There are two bars of 5/8" square ripped down the center and opened up each being half of the diamond shape. Prototype finished Some scroll work on top. A detail shot of the decorative piece that is inserted between the scrolls. This will also get a collar thanks!

heat it up! haha...I kid I kid

"Freeze vinegar in an ice cube tray and grind them up in the disposal to clean and sharpen the blades at the same time." whaaat. ...Sharpen the blades?

In the Anvil book it looks similar to the Alsop Anvil (pg 14) It doesn't have the step (or table its called in the book) and there is mention of a very old type called a Moses anvil and Spanish anvils that look real similar but those have a 5th toe sticking out of the side (pg 12). Interesting find none the less

I typically call myself names

thanks for the replies! I was also sent a picture of a tool of what Mark Aspery used to make one. Though the BP is interesting technique and is a punched hole and not a slit and drift. Trying to keep the integrity of the edge of square bar. Defiantly have some more techniques to choose from. Thanks again https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/418145_407878445893523_100000141134475_1698035_104090866_n.jpg

I am attempting to slit and drift a square hole in 5/8" square bar. But this is not on the flat, yet the hole needs to be through on the diamond. The hole is 5/8" square as well and is also on the diamond. I typically upset first, slit, drift, clean up and then run a final sized drift for my last pass. I am having issues getting the drift to go through it straight, as well as keep the bar on the diamond position. I attempted to upset and flatten a spot to start my drift but can not get the bar to stay in the position I need. Also tried the swedge block but it ended up forging the material on the outside when the drift was going through. Any tips? Having difficulty pulling this off cleanly.

found this: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/21874-an-old-french-anvil/ and: http://www.anvilfire.com/21centbs/anvils/hardy_holes.php http://www.anvilfire.com/anvils/donated_025.php Was that upsetting block welded on? None the less, good looking tool! 275lbs?

it says "The name is cast in relief on the side. These anvils were made for Sears Roebuck and Company in the 1920s. Producer Unknown" page 225

I did a search and did not see a topic about this. So I apologize if there has been one started, but think this is definitely worth sharing. Posted this on my site as well. Tobbe and Tone, two blacksmiths from Oslo are building a sculpture of forged roses made by smiths from all over the world, a project called "Iron Rose For Norway." To honor the victims of the unimaginable violence in Oslo July 22, 2011 and to let the love grow from hammers and fire. Rocky Mountain Smiths hosted a workshop at Dragon Forge LTD to make iron roses and send them to Norway. We forged 12 roses that day. Also had a local crew, The Sharpened Axe, ask to come out of film some of the event. Below are links to the video and pictures that I took during our day. Iron Rose for Norway The Sharpened Axe

the white defiantly fits the house but the concept looks like it was executed well. But that opens a whole new door, I never heard of such a thing. That scarecase would make me say some choice words. Does it get the same details like the landing? Anything big going on for the post at the bottom? I see a hole there.

Love this!

Here are two: One for Dragon Forge LTD and a variety of others I have done for others. I use photoshop as well. Might give some ideas on layouts

almost cut through the tool steel face. But hey someone will still pay $350 for it...

thank you! :) Owner loves it. Send me a picture recently and was happy to see it doing its job as a table

Thanks! :) Yes its spot welded in the back. Just a clear lacquer finish.

I put my coal in a bucket and add the water there. After I get a the consistency I want I put it to work. I haven't actually put water on / near my forge in a long time doing it this way. Some guys I have seen actually poor water down the middle of their fire which does absolutely no good and thus busting the pot. If your pot is getting "hot" then look at whats going on in there: Klinker blocking the air causing some extra insulation and the pot absorbing the heat? The klinker breaker can cause the same problem the way it directs the air. I drilled 6 holes in mine so that air can still get to the fire and not get so constricted by the kilnker breaker. To big of a fire for a little pot can also do it. This opens the discussion for fire management, which Im not sure if there is already a topic about. A lot to consider and the better you understand that fire and how to control the more control of that tool.

I made a hair dryer holster for mine... :/ she loved it...since she drops the dang thing everyday.

lookin good! keep up the good work!