Direwolf

As Thomas pointed out could be a mistake. We all have a bad day once in a while. Some time in the past I saw one with the name upside down. I own quite a few Peter Wrights and have looked at many, none miss marked. The script style used to stamp them can be confusing as to a 5 or a 3 particularly when the numbers are worn from use and age. As a general rule Peter Wright anvils are meticulusly finished, they took great pride in their anvils and the quality of their products. As said a picture would be helpful. Good Luck!

I just did some research and sure enough, Frederick and Frank Wells left Wiley & Russel in 1876 and formed their company. In 1912 the company was bought by Greenfield Tap & Die. About that time BB Noyes acquired anything not related to cutting tools but discontinued that type of manafacture by 1916 so I would guess that your block dates to that time frame. One way or another great block and stand.

Hi Mark my block is smooth, but the plot thickens... My block is made by Wells Bros & Co Greenfield Mass I'll include some pics. It is identical to yours sans the raised area. I'll have to research the companies but it looks like the same pattern all holes are the same as are the outer swages, even the name is done the same. I haden't looked at this block in 6 or 7 years but recognized the pattern. I wonder if the company changed names or a pattern maker changed companies. Also in the same town was Wiley & Russell who made many blacksmith tools including the famous and rare two piece slotted cone mandrel. I found one of those mandrels a few years ago being used as a bird bath base and ended up buying it from the guy to return it to it's intended purpose. Well my block is 18" square 4" thick check out the pics. I also included a pic taken today of what 16" of snow looks like in MAy! We got hammered the other day with a blizzard.

Hi Mark, Nice block! I have an identical BB noyes block that is block only, if I remember right mine is either 18" or 20" square no stand and born that way. Noyes made a lot of industrial tools including a cone mandrel with tong groove, good quality castings. I've been barn picking trading and selling antique and old things since I was a little kid in New England and I have seen a few other sizes of Noyes blocks with the bolt header swages but they are scarce so a great find! If you want to see I could post a pic of mine. A few years ago at an auction I saw a few bolt header top swages but with two rings going I managed to miss 'em. In 50 years of picking I too have acquired and hung onto many industrial swage blocks, I use several but more for bending and upsetting I am not an artist I tend more to make tools, parts and repairs. I also use one to hold a stake anvil when I use it so they are still useful. I think that this summer I will bring a block to a demo I do for county fair and show folks how round and square stock was once made by hand we take a lot for granted these days!

Hi boris, I've been busy but looked at the photos, overwhelming amount of stuff but I did see a Fisher leg vise parallel jaw with chain drive they are rare! As with any vise check the thread wear on the box and screw, I usually open the jaws part way then see if there is slop in the threads and with the chain drive check chain & gears. Value depends on size and the shape it's in but you won't see many of them. As for RR spikes and horse shoes the spikes I usually get them by the bucket for scrap I suppose that 10 cents to a buck a piece I wouldn't pay much more. One thing about auctions I forgot- if you're willing to hang out till the bitter end you will get better deals as the crowd thins out big time I can recall many times when there were just a few of us left and we stand there taking turns buying stuff for half of nothing then all pitch in to help load our treasures! I'm sure you will have a good time and score some treasures.I also always have a hand cart in my truck to move stuff. I'll try to look at more of the photos.

Hi Boris, looks like a good auction! I'd love to go with you, but too far away for me. I've been to hundreds of auctions as I have always been a picker and trader. Get there early look things over and set a price/value on items that intrest you and do not get caught up in the bidding if someone wants to pay too much let 'em. There will always be other oppertunities. Sometimes on large auctions they will sell in two or more rings so it is helpful to have a friend. Also if you can buy something for a good low price that you can later trade for something you want you might consider that. I would like to hear how the auction goes if you have time to post! Good luck even if you don't get anything you may meet other blacksmiths or folks with something for sale you want. Have fun and enjoy!

Hello, My name is Dick, I live in snowy Northern Wisconsin these days. I found this site a few weeks ago and posted a few pics sorry I didn't see this forum at the time! I've been blacksmithing since I was a kid when I got an anvil and post vise out of my greatgrandfathers carriage shop in Maine. I like to make tools and repair parts and springs. I also spend a lot of time welding and repairing farm equipment. It's great to find a site like this with so many enthusiastic blacksmiths and metal workers! I live in an area with no cell service or high speed internet so I can only check here when I come to town. I'll slowly find my way around the site as I find time. Take care

Sorry the pics didn't post, I'll try again later! The server on my end is having issues.

Great thing you're doing! Well I'm new to the site but not blacksmithing. I'm learning to navigate around so bear with. I will include some pics of three different styles of saw smith anvils. Pic #1 is three together. #2 is 10"x6"x8" tall 144 lbs, 1895. #3 is 8"x5-1/2"x7-1/4" tall, 100 lbs 1892. #4 is 12'x 8"x6-1/2" tall 166 lbs 1890. I've been barn picking scrounging ect since I was a little kid in New England . I own quite a few anvils and I've looked at many more over the years. Most of the Fisher saw smith anvils I've seen seem to be of similar shape to these three. The smallest I've seen was 50 lbs or so, the largest was 800 lbs or so. These three are the ones I own. They all have other markings on them probably pattern numbers. If you want better pics let me know and I will eventually get some posted. My shop is big, dark and full of stuff so when weather is better I could drag 'em outside in better light. Ihope this data and pics help you!

In a hurry today want to get home and take advantage of a sunny day. I took photos and thanks to Pulse got em on photobucket but still have to do some organizing. I'll try to attach a few and a link to one to see what works. I'll probably come back to town tomorrow and mess with it some more, while as an engineer I design with autocad and other programs, I'm a kinda inept when it comes to social media.These two photos are of the Peter Wright I repaired 11 or 12 years ago and used hard for a while. I have not used this anvil for quite a while. It had some sway which I chose to just leave and I accidently swung around with a 9" angle grinder after grinding for a long stretch and hit the center of the face caucing a shallow gouge about 2" long. This was repaired with Eutectic HSS hard facing over either 11018 or BT UTP 65. One thing you'll notice is that the repaired areas stand out from the original metal as the new weld areas are different composition from the original. While taking these photos I found more I repaired over the years: an Arm & Hammer, a Trenton swelled horn farriers, a Hay Budden and another old PW. If interested I try to get pics uploaded so you can see. All of the above had been seriously cut up with O/A torch by idiots using them as cutting tables. I've had good luck with all the repaired anvils though I don't use any of them now. As someone noted grinding hardfacing rod is hard time consuming work and it is also time consuming to over build the edges to allow grinding back to a perfect edge. I always have then put a slight radius on the edges while finish grinding with a 80 to 120 grit flap disk. The link to Photo bucket is a Hay Budden, let me know if it works! Thanks for your patience and carry on with the test! I'd like to know how it works! http://i1274.photobucket.com/albums/y421/375HayBudden/DSC00102_zps6058fb67.jpg

Hi Cleetis, I will take some pics and post 'em. Save me some time, how do you post pictures here? I will try to get pics tonight. Where I live there is NO Cell service or high speed internet access so I have to come in town to my office so no pics till tomorrow. I'll be here at work for a few more minutes. Thanks

Hi all, new to this site but not to blacksmithing or welding. I found you while reasearching something else. I've been welding for 40 years and blacksmithing off and on longer started when I was a kid. I have repaired a number of anvils and here is my two cents worth. Use a new grinding disk to clean and prep the work, pre heat and while welding let the anvil cool if it gets too hot. I build up with Bohler Thyssen UTP 65 maintenance rod or 10018. (I prefer Arc welding these) I then hard surface with Eutectic hss or I have used lincoln hard surfacing rod. I'm sure that any hard surfacing rod which is for impact resistance and wear should work. I learned the hard way that if you run multiple layers let the anvil cool if it gets too hot the weld WILL crack. I always use one of my pneumatic needle scalers to chip slag and peen the weld to relieve stress. When done welding I finish grind and shape with a cup wheel. It takes time and rod is expensive so it's a labor of love so to speak. I have used a Peter Wright quite a bit which I repaired this way and it is in great shape after 10 years. I just repaired a Hay Budden which had parted company with most of it's face plate last fall great ring & rebound but I don't use it much. I have repaired several others also all with good results. If you would like to see pics of anvils or tools mentioned let me know I'll try to post some. I may need some assistance in posting pics as I am not familar with the site yet. Thanks in advance for posting help and good luck with the anvil repairs!