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Posts posted by Dodge
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One thing you DON"T want to use for screw lube is graphite powder. This makes things like drawer guides and other metal to metal surfaces glide like snot on a door handle. It has the same affect on a screw. I made this mistake on a heavy 18" Wilton sliding C-clamp. I had to used a "cheater" bar to clamp what I was clamping. (Not because of the graphite. Because I really needed a bigger clamp;)) When I went to let go of the bar, it slip off the clamp and the screw unscrewed; Very quickly!! If I had not dropped the bar (1 1/4" x 24" Pipe) and it would have stayed on the handle, It would have swung around and hit me up side the head. It took another 20 minutes to clean the screw off with solvent.
Just a time saver and a safety tip for Y'all :) -
Clark, I would want at least a canvas or leather apron covering the ways, tool holder, and tail stock. But it would be interesting to see. Idea reminds me of the "Shopsmith" wood working system. Lathe, drill press, belt and disc sander all in one
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Specially considering in most of the renditions I've seen of Thor, he is wielding a hand hammer (short handle) ;)
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The chief reason that drills don't make good cutters with abrasive wheels is that they just don't turn fast enough. Wheels and grinding stones will wear out faster and cut less at too slow a speed.
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I agree with both Rich H. and Thomas P. That would be SOME wailing by hand, but you could cut them in strips maybe 3/8" or 1/2" (or whatever it takes depending on the thickness) using a band saw or even a sawsall across the diameter. Would yield 3 or 4 pieces that would be suitable for some blades. remaining "crescents" could also be forged easier I'm all for using what you can find, but don't wear yourself out. That kinda work takes the fun out of it See attached example
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Cute li'l anvil. Is it cast steel or iron?
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Thanks for the heads-up, Jeremy, and glad to hear no one was hurt.
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An old knowledgeable third generation blacksmith taught me a trick about hammers. Heat just the face to non magnetic, say about 1/4 to 3/8" in depth. using a torch works real good for this method. Hardening only the face allows for the non-hardened body to act as a cushion rendering a hammer with very nice rebound. The one I did was 1095(??), PTO shafting.
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I don't weld for a living anymore, but I did used an auto helmet for several years before I quit. I also use one at home. Niether the work helmet of the home one were of the highest quality. Mine was just under 100 bucks 5 years ago. So far, I have not suffered any ill affect from the flash
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Nice! That reminds me of the thousands of pounds worth of slugs that went into the scrap hopper at my shape cutter job. I did manage to coax a few pieces to follow me home however The attached pic shows my plate anvil that was cut from one such slug. The total weight of the original slug was over 500 pounds
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Sorry to hear Jr. I will add him to my prayer list
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Sounds like a good compliment to Anvils in America. I would like to have them both. Hear that, Mrs. Dodge?? Hint, hint LOL
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Great article Jr. Thanks for sharing. I remember those diagrams that came with lawn mowers appliances an such. My dad has several three ring binders that he kept his in. Just about everything he bought could be referenced from those binders. It is sad that we are moving away rapidly from that kind of mentality. He still encourages me to try and fix something rather than buy a new one or pay someone to fix it
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Sam, thats exactly how it worked in the pre-embargo days of -40-cent-per-gallon gas. (Aging myself now ) Only the oil companies did it for another reason. I think it was called Capitalism and Competition LOL
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One thing that might work, rather than boycotting a particular day, is to boycott a particular company. Namely the largest. How bout we boycott Exxon or Mobile and force them too start a good old fashion gas war!! ;)
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I have a Harbor Freight mini lathe. Does that count? lol I also have a power hammer. That's a machine! Oh yeah, I forgot about my drill press ;)
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I agree on the size range. Speaking as a person that worked for a company that manufactured pipe as well as bent a lot of it, I would say that 4" is at the lower end of the larger pipe sizes.
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I know what it is Jr. I saw it (or one like it) at my first hammer-in in Grand Island . But I'll keep the secret :)
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MT is Morse Taper, used for and holding drill bits, chucks and lathe centering tools. #1 and #2 are the two smaller common sizes
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It is a tragedy:(They are scheduled to appear at the air show at Offut AFB, near here, first weekend in May. I Wonder how this will affect their schedule.
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Nice lure, I.I.
Very reminiscent of Pete Fels' work bottle openers by Peter Fels -
Me too Jeff I forgot all about it this month until I read Dr Dean's Posting
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Sam, if its 100 gallon. It should be about 3' in diameter and about 6" long. If it 100# it will be about 18" in diameter and 3.5- 4" tall. dimensions approx from memory;)
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Speaking as a "Boy Racer", I answer that with the rust bucket of a 1974 Dodge Challenger sitting in my driveway....Someday! As for making a silk purse from a pig's ear, a decent second hander isn't always readily available when the urge to heat and beat arises. And there's the "I made (modified, improved, or other appropriate verb) it myself" factor, that once tasted, is hard to not want more!!
Knifemaking videos FREE from Greenpete!
in Knife Making
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That was a pretty thick blade, wasn't it, Backyard?? I noticed that too, and kept waiting for the part where he thins it down Still, very informative and well structured vids