Dodge

Gonna have to side with Tar on that one. Information is all we're seeking here. I'm not sure I'm going to be comfortable sharing my knowlege if I fear that someone is going to call me and idiot for being wrong. I think I can speak for others, in that if I am wrong, I want to be told, but I don't want my nose rubbed in it for making a mistake.

Here's a quickie of my tire hammer. Sorry for the poor quality of photo. Gotta re shoot one of these days. Hammer is about 38#

Richard,
CO2 is correct in relation to propane. There is CO also pesent in propane exhaust but not nearly as much as in fossil fuel emissions. Thats why its ok to run propane burning forklifts inside buildings like meat lockers and such

Jeff,
Keep in mind that the heat wave from the "dragons breath" will extend a good distance from the mouth of the forge before rising. I'm assuming, unless corrected, that the CO2 fumes will follow that path. If you are going to run a rear opening too, you'll need a good sized (commercial kitchen?) hood.

You found the right place, Paul
Also, check out the chat. This forum and the chat is frequented by many, many talented smiths of all types, from blade smithing to farrier to just plain hobby enthusiasts like me. Can't say much for my talents tho LOL. This place, however is the place to learn.

Many early anvils were just a block of iron or even stone. It doesn't need to look like an anvil to be one :)

Thanks for the link scrapman. Yes Denny. Neighbors, as per private message ;)

Welcome to the forum Scot,
No experience with roller myself either but I'm sure there will be someone here that can help. It would be even better if you could post a pic. As for the gate hinges, I think I understand what you mean. Like a garden type or corral gate?? Not a hinge man either but this is the best place I know to ask questions. May take a day or three but you'll usually get an answer or three :)

As usual, another work of art. Its a beauty Jim!!

Welcome to our happy little band, Mike;)
I assume the NC stands for North Carolina?? If so, what part. I lived in Moorehead City for a spell myself. Omaha, Ne currently

From my experience, I have found that if you don't change the color while grinding, you don't change the hardness. Thats provided you don't grind past the heat treat. Most chisels are heat treated on the "business" end and left relatively soft on the hammer end. Hence the mushrooming of the hammer end. This is essential for a safe tool. If the entire tool was hardened the hammering end could shatter when hit. Where it is treated too depends on the manufacturer but I would susspect it extends at least through most of the taper.

I haven't done that much oil quenching, but I concer with cheftjcook on the veggie oil source. Fast food restaraunts will probably give it away. At least thats what the articles have been saying as a source for bio-diesel base.

Congrats Chris!! :)

Welcome to the forum Denny,
Really cool (no pun indended ) about your pour!! I've always been interested in casting. I want to do someting with the brass I've been collecting over the years, but I dunno if a plaster mold would hold up in that case. You came to the right place although there aren't too many doing castings. You'll be an asset!! Ask lots of questions and keep us informed on what you learn. I think I can speak for others in that we'd all like to learn more. You can teach as you learn Even the oldtimers don't know EVERYTHING. LOL

Wicked hammer, Val. Why is it not going to be a permanent fixture in your shop???? I'd give my left uh... well, I'd like very much to have a hammer like that ;)

JPH said:

Brian:
You may need to coat it in cyanoacrylate to staibilze the surface but that is easy enough to do..

Jim, Is this not the same as super glue? And would you need to vacuum to stabilize or just coat with brush??

Just in case it was missed, one must be careful when working on concrete with molten metal. Extreme sudden heat and concrete don't mix. A violent reaction can result. We're not talking Hiroshima or even Forth of July type explosions but little pieces of hot concrete that stick to your neck just below your face shield because you spilled a little moltem bronze during a pour or you just had to get that anvil cut form 4" plate done now come xxxx or high water are really annoying. Whats that?? You weren't wearing a face shield???

Wicked hawk Tyler! I gotta find my spikes!!! ;)

Brian:

Have any ant hills close by?/ a couple of days on one of those and it should be picked pretty clean..if not then you can boil it clean in some water and TSP thrown in..this will get the gunk off..It will take about two or three hours... After the TSP boil,. soak in clean water for a couple more hours and then let air dry. This is what I do...then you can either finish it up as is or you can dye it like I do..

You may need to coat it in cyanoacrylate to staibilze the surface but that is easy enough to do..

I love bone..I must run through 500 pounds of it a year...

JPH

I bought the Hypertherm powermax 380.

The neat thing about dirt, clay, gravel, etc vs concrete is that the non- concrete materials are less likely to explode if molten steel or other such hot material was to come into contact with it. Heavy flame cutting over concrete should be avoided as there is always some moisture in the concrete that will expand and can rupture the surface. Not in a window shattering explosion but enough to send particals into places they should not occupy. i.e. eyes, ears, down the front of yer bibs etc. Just a safety note :)

Bary,
Not too sure about gyroscopes, but as I remember from the toy one I had as a kid and what I've seen on science shows on tv, the key is balance, as would be the case on any spinning wheel. I would say that brass would make a fine scope. Turning this on a lathe?? If I was to make one, just sitting here brainstorming, I would make the frame from steel (Stainless;)??) and the wheel or "rotor" from brass. Brass seem to have built in lubricating qualities. Just an opinion. Use at your own risk. Sounds like a fun project though :)

Here in Nebraska, we have an abundancy of good ol clay. Just under the topsoil. Usually less that a foot. When I build my shop I will op to have probably half un-paved maybe all and just rely on hard packed clay in the forge area. Save lotas money that way too ;)

Hey Jeff,
Welcome from a former Coloradian. Arvada, specifically:)

Welcome Andreas,
Intersting about starting with bladesmithing and evolving to other stuff. I started the other way around. I too have been interested in smithing for years but did fabricating, welding, sculpture and such and only recently have I been focusing on blades. Having a blast and this is the place to be:)