DClaville

yep nice table
the lamp pics makes no sense to me either.

DC

i have two hammers i mostly use for tools a 800grams and a 1,2kg never other hammers for tooling and if others are using my shop with me there is a penalty fee (beer) for using one of my good hammer for hitting tools

DC

nice.. i like the idea of it well i might get the point more when i get around to getting some of Aspery's books.


DC

now that is a clever bender!! never seen one like it

DC

I think Mike is thinking about the lose sleeves or that is never the less what I find dangerous and that he is using loose blocks on the dies of the hammer they can go flying true him any moment..

DC

hmm interesting master Hofi. i like the idea about the wing that make the air swirl more.. and all in all it looks like a nice forge

DC

very nice looking leaves as all of your work master Hofi.
i am wondering the 1st. tool/die you use "1 combination dies to preper the basic form" is it the standard available from anyang, comi flat and draw dies? or the combi wide flat and slim flat die (I believe it maybe is designed by your self)? and do you have photos of em ?

Cheers
DC

well if it is mostly normal forging work use it and do as all others said and since it is really old don't grind it any more..

but a know many will disagree with me on this but if you forge a lot of blades and price flat stuff and have a old but not that old anvil (one piece steel ones) i grind em down to smooth and it any really big digs I weld em up using 0,60carbon self hardening welding stick and I also grind it up high in the grits so I can see my own reflection and keep it that way or the prober use of it keeps it shiny.

and oil it up if you are leaving it for more then a few days with out use..

DC

now that is nice and beautiful thanks for showing

DC
+ Ted and Karen That is what blacksmithing needs!..

I like the idea of using metal saw dust or skarfs or what ya call em in English.. and a light oil..
and also the idea of a octagon shaped interior

DC

very good looking

DC

very nice i am planing to make some thing like this maybe smaller tho but i would also love to get more close up pics and if you would teel a bit more about what you did ?
and what do you put inside so that it works??..

DC

don't paint it with zinc paint other paint can't stick to it just grease it of and get some strong paint like hammerlik paint or emalia or what such things are called over in the US give it a few layers and grease/oil it plenty.

or let it rust all it want at some point it will not rust any more. just oil the screw box

DC

hmmm have to be my bench grinder with a very coarse stone on one site and a heavy wire brush on the other site, can't do with out it use for hot and cold steel while i forge to clean and tuch up shape. then welder and drill press..

well hope to soon or with in the next 2 years to get my own shop done and get my belt grinder build and a disk grinder/ buffer and of course get a power hammer

DC

shape and all heat to non magnetic and let cool in still air 2-3 times and then Bring up to non magnetic again and quench in Oil. then polish up to shiny one side of it (from one end to the other) of it and heat the middle till the hammer hitting end gets purple and the punch end get to a dark straw but keep it up a bit more so that a blue/purple colour goes down to 1-1,5cm from the tip that way it is only the end that "does the business" that is really hard and rest of it is strong.
and remember to cool very often while driving a hole in hot iron, and the tool will last long.
just my 2 cents.
EDIT: ohh forgot I use spring steel for mine, like from old leaf springs and such

Cheers
DC

I am also building a new workshop and my bench grinder will be bolted down where i need it on a big old square pipe. but belt grinder, buffer and drill press will all get a small table as I find it very important to have some table space for the stuff I work on at every place.
it all depends on if one has enough room to work in.

hm i use Break free made for it and also for guns and such works nice

spray it on and then let it sit for a day or so. and then give it some work/movement

DC

I got this and have had it for like a little over a year now and i use it all times when forging I am thinking about getting a full front one when working with molten stuff and other very hot work
but i like the half kinds for most work

DC

yes they do Sam it got a hole and extra round stock for extending the foot pedal hmm let me see if i can find a linky
It is made from 20mm steel plate and can be filled with cement or sand and stones.

Edit: Link there are ones for 9,15,25,40 and 55kg and i am sure the US dealer sells them too.

DC

noting wrong in swinging a big sledge hammer all day long does it a lot (still don't have a powerhammer) for drawing my damascus and thick steel out to blade stock
hmm reminds me a mate comes over this weekend and we will be making damascus two days out. one day at the sledge each

I am glad to see this test and find the 25kg/55 anyang doing okay. i will hopefully get one at the start of next year

Cheers
DC

that's cool... it turned out nice looking

DC

As usual it's a matter of local dialect making communication 'interesting'. In this case, 'buggered' means something quite... unsuitable for posting on a 'family friendly' forum. Wikipedia will help you.

okay Wiki says i can mean a few things some indeed not materiel for a family friendly placer like this but i meant it in the meaning of "displeasing"

:)

Hey Dan, Im pretty sure you dont mean the anvil horn buggered you

Im right handed, but usually have the horn to the right, (I mostly patternweld, and like to keep the flux shaker on the cutting shelf, by my right hand)

hmm i might have the wrong idea in what buggered means hmm like iratating me hehe
it might have to do with that way i work moving my arm around the anvil side to back end and the horn made that difficult

I use to have the flux cup(old open end bear can) on the anvil as well but after pushing it down and loosing all the flux 2 times i started using the other anvil for that


DC

i am also making a new shop and before doing any thing like cementing stuff in the ground i sill make cardboard pieces of the same size as all my machines and tools forges anvils and all things i will have in there and lay out and them move em around untill im 100% sure they are where i want em. that would help you out as well i think

They can be made of anything i use some grey covering cardboard carpenters use when working indoors at peoples homes.

DC

hoe do you lots your floor mandrels stands look like i am in the process of making a new shop and would like to get a useful and movable stand for my 1,2meter tall floor mandrel have been thinking about a hole in the cement floor but it might be too low
any ideas pics or such ?

Cheers DC