Jump to content
I Forge Iron

DClaville

Members
  • Posts

    241
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by DClaville

  1. Right about now Mr NJ Anvil ;)

    after the resin had cured I bolted it down with big washers + locking washers and nuts


    then it was time for the treadle build, after reading on here and watching pictures I was pretty sure what I needed in a good treadle, one that was close to the ground so I would be able to use it with both heels on the floor and it be so comfortable that I can use it hours on end with out hurting my legs
    I got some 30x60x5mm L angle iron I laid down to a angle of about the same as the gas pedal in my car.

    here are a few pictures of it
    IMG_0299.jpg

    IMG_0296.jpg

    and also build in a turn buckle so I can adjust the hight of the treadle as needed
    IMG_0300.jpg


    then it was time for the exhaust these hammer are very very loud with the air in/out and it come out just behind the ram so its blowing oily air right out to the operator not so good but health and safety was not a big deal back when these hammers was made.

    the idea to make the exhaust I got from UK master pattern welder Mick Maxen who also have a Pilkington airhammer

    I Cold forged :ph34r: a 3mm plate to fit over the air hole behind the ram and drilled and taped a few holes for bolts in that plate I made a hole to weld in a 90° bend for Ø88,9mm pipe (we use a lot of this size pipe at work and had plenty in offcuts)
    IMG_0284.jpg

    on that I welded another 90° bend and a pipe to go out the hole in the wall (the hole will be closed up with a wooden plate when all is done) also put in a pipe assembler?? or what they are called
    On the back compressor piston there is a oneway valve for exsses air Fabricated a new cover it a 50mm pipe stud on it and also drilled and welded on a stud onto the main exhaust pipe

    IMG_0288.jpg

    F3CDE586-1A76-47FE-9BEE-BD03A624DBBE-243

    A934C1EC-6771-42DB-BFFF-A80F9FC3AC28-243

    the hose is some oil resistant hose for some farm machinery we sell at work

    the back end on the exhaust also has a 90° bend on it that points down so air and oil shoots downwards into a bucket

    I am pleased with how this exhaust ended up


    then I got a new chain for it as the old one had been stretched and was therefore a bad fit
    and I build a chain tightener to get more teeth in contact with the chain on the motors chain wheel hoping I can keep this chain from stretching too much
    547B3042-E5F7-4268-8C1B-5B7FD52FFED4-243



    A few notes about the placement of the motor.
    the room I have for the workshop is very narrow and really small TBH but it is great for me and all I can get atm. the hight to the celling was also very low too low for really swinging a hammer so I lowered the floor about 30cm(12") insulated and cast a new floor but I only did that in the forge "room" part of the shop making a step right next to where the hammer sits. to save floor space I mounted the motor on the higher floor level on there it can be under a table for a machine or what ever and be out of the way, I am really happy with this idea.

    B99976D4-7334-4EA8-A70E-48E8F6D698D3-243



    next was the electrical stuff I didn't do that by my self got a friend helping with wiring the entire shop
    I mounted the start/stop box with kill switch right on one of the bolts the holds the front rams top plate and that was a big mistake!! as I then tested the hammer the vibration made the switch click and stop the hammer atm its just hanging in the wires.

    and I am thinking about two ways of mounting it
    1: same placement but with a rubber cushion build in but am thinking it will get bouncy

    2: fabricating some square pipe to go down from the wooden celling beam just above the hammer to hold the switch

    atm I am most in favour of the 2nd option



    almost forgot to post some videos

    here is the hammer at this point in the story


    at this point I am so happy that I almost felt dissy :wub:

    we are now at middle October 2012 only a few things till we are up-to-date

    next is a scale blaster as some might see in my other youtube videos

    hope to get time to write more this evening (Danish time)
  2. Hi y'all

    I am going to tell a story about me and my powerhammer and it is a story that has been going for a few years but it isn't nearly started yet ;)
    I will try to give as much info about the very hammer as I can as i find that there is very little info about this make on the internet.
    also about how I set it up and why I did it the way I have done

    If there is any Questions feel free to ask


    As some of you know I purchased a Powerhammer about 2 years ago.

    I got a great opportunity to buy a lovely old airhammer a Pilkington 1 CWT hammer a hammer bigger then i had first planed to get. I was at that time looking to get a 25kg(55) Anyang airhammer



    The deal I got was from a cool company in the UK Massy forging limited (John N) the hammer got a good overhaul from some Pros and was then shipped to Denmark

    the hammer before it got anything done to it
    pilkingtonNo12-1.jpg

    as it was when I visited to try it out
    IMG_1607.jpg

    when I was over there to try it out
    I also shot this video



    when I got the hammer home it looked like this
    IMG_1766.jpg


    I was still not ready for it so for about 1,5 years it's been sitting in the barn waiting... while I worked on getting the workshop ready.


    first thing I did my self on the hammer was cutting the wooden blocks to fit better and then make a strong steel band around them they are 6x6" pinewood or such
    IMG_0028.jpg

    IMG_0042.jpg

    IMG_0043.jpg


    then the base was up I made a wooden insert the same size as the foundation was going to be but 15mm bigger all around.
    Then cast the floor around the wooden "form"
    IMG_0082.jpg

    then removed the wooden "form" and dug the hole out and stomped the ground below and put it 15mm Styrofoam
    and as the hammer was very low I made a steel ring from 10x100mm barstock the shape I wanted the foundation then levelled that out and welded in a little bit of reinforcement (used what I could get free)
    IMG_0103.jpg

    then filled her up the cement is approx 750x650x1200mm
    IMG_0118.jpg


    then last winter(2011) I was then finally ready to move the hammer in onto its foundation, had to make a big hole in the wall directly behind where the hammer was going and then roll it in as there was no way I could lift it in place.
    IMG_0274.jpg

    the whole hammer weighs about 2 Tons but even so it was very easy to roll it in I used 3/4" and 5/4" water pipe to roll it on as there was a hight difference and also laid strips of 3mm steel plate to roll an to there was a even surface for the pipe we was 3 people doing it and did it slowly and controlled but it still only took about 1 hour

    when the hammer finally was in place I was happy like a child in a free candy store. here you see the 2mm rubber plate between the wood and cement
    IMG_0276.jpg



    I then drilled 4, Ø32mm holes 500mm into the cement and resin bonded in M27 8,8 whole tread bar got some stuff that was vibration resistant at least that's what the seller said :)
    IMG_0290.jpg


    Next is the treadle but I got to go now (making chain guard) ATM.

    at this point in the story we are around April 2012
  3. the way i have been told to make spring swages it you forge the blocks then drill a hole 18mm in each and then take a 16mm round bar and upset one end to 18,5mm on the diagonal square, but only upset a length that is about half the depth of the holes you drilled then heat up the block and hammer the cold rod in and then take a large center punch and punch all around the hole with the bar in it.

    the measurements are figurative and should be adapted to the size of the tools.

    this should hold many time longer then any weld.

    here is a photo that shows it done
    https://fbcdn-sphoto...7_5289629_n.jpg
    Photo is borrowed from Roger Lund, Sweden

  4. Yes Owen after looking at my valve and lots of turning the hammer by hand i also decided that it is only air out on mine at its that way at least
    i made a cover with a 2" pipe end on it and will run a hose down to the big pipe coming from the main air in/out in front
    and will run the pipe out the wall and down half way into a bucket

    Thanks for all this info Alan

    yes green is a lovely color http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff59/DClaville/Pilkington%20no%201%20powerhamer/

  5. Thanks  I got it from a local counts mansions farm forge shop I got to clear out as they needed the space.I don't know how old it is but thinking abot 80 or so years but no one knows.. the only markings on it is PATENTIMG_0703.jpgIMG_0702.jpgIMG_0697.jpg


    This looks a really good job. Would love to see more pictures as the build goes on.
    Where did you find the cast iron tuyere from?
  6. thanks for your nice comments :)

    the gaps in the corners i made on purpose so to be able to sweep out dust when needed and they are only 10mm wide the two gaps on the side that will be placed against the wall will be welded up

    the firepot is not very deep and the sides are 35mm high so the top of them will be abut the hight where the sweetspot in the fire will be for most of the size work ill be doing in it

    i still need some more features build on it but this was as far as i could get with the very limited time we hard for the project
    one thing i really need is rubber feet on threaded bar so i can level it on my floor, and will lasercut and CNC-bend a box for ashes and clinkers to go under the ash-dump

    any other ideas of what i should build in on it would be very appreciated :)

  7. as a project for y education i had to design and build a project, the only requirement was that it had to be a 3-point-linkage but since i don't need any thing that hangs behind a tractor, and needed to make a new solid fuel forge.
    i ended up making a forge that was bolted onto a 3-point-linkage :)

    its not all finished need to make a few more additions but here is a few photos
    the firepot is a old cast-iron on

    IMG_0335.jpg

    IMG_0336.jpg

    IMG_0339.jpg

    the top plate(6mm) and the shelf(3mm) was lasercut the frame is 50x50x6mm angle iron

  8. Thanks just what i needed to hear

    it will be a portable stand for moving to the middle of the floor right next to my main anvil when needed
    have two steel pipes cast in the floor so will make holes in the base plate for the vise stand to drop in some 3/4" pipe to keep it from moving when in use
    I plan to make the stand with a 60x60cm 10mm thick steel plate base plate and the post will be 20x10cm 10mm thick wall Sq tubing (filled with sand) and a 40x22cm 10mm thick steel plate as a table top
    will put on two small wheels that's offset a bit from the ground so when I tilt the stand over a bit I can roll it around.

    here is two photos of the vises
    the one thats taken apart is the big one I'm making this stand for have given it a spray down with rust-penetrator and will attack with it a powered wirebrush tomorrow.
    the small on 4"jaw is new! it has never clamped any thing in the jaws only has rust and dust on it. I got it from my fathers old friend who remembers buying it many years ago when its was normal to use leg vises, but he never got round to mounting it so it has been standing in a corner for 60+ years that one i will mount to a heavy work bench for finer work and filing

    IMG_0306.jpg

    IMG_0307.jpg

    Cheers
    Daniel

  9. Hello all

    Im building a leg vise stand for a big 6inch jaw vise i have

    I have been thinking of how to mount it, and have a question, does the leg need to be free standing from the post(in my case heavy rectangular tubing) ? or would I be fine bolting the leg of the vise into the post? or would that harm the function of the leg to transfer vibration downwards

    the reason why I would like to bolt it into the side of the post is to not have the normal mounting bracket that bolts down on top of the post as I would like as much space as possible there for a small table

    will get some photos uploaded later as we all like photos right :)

    Cheers
    Daniel.

  10. I have for some time now been thinking of making a gear shifter nob from pattern-welded steel for my car, but puzzled if I should try to get the numbers shown in the pattern
    its not a problem remembering where each gear is for me, but if some one els should drive it they sorta need to know whats rear-drive and 1,2,3,4,5

  11. some advice i have that may be of help
    I am 22years old and have been forging for 6 years or there about.
    get your self set up so you can work thats what counts so you can start making things that you can show people who might take you in.
    and use youtube.com it is very learning to watch other smiths work then think of why they did what they did and try it out and see if it works for you or not.
    and yes this forum is very sharing as well use the search function on here and dig in the old threads lots of knowhow there.
    and books are also good some old ones can be found on the internet as the copyright is expired.
    and as mentioned go and meet with as many smiths as you can and if you find some smiths close to you ask nicely if you can come just watch them work and mostly they will tell a-bit of why and how they do what they do

    you say you want a gas forge thats fine its easy and clean but if you want to get a apprenticeship then you will need to know about maintaing a coal/coke fire so thats where this site and other smiths you can see doing it comes handy

    and step close to the anvil use a lightish hammer and fast blows, dont bent in your back and you should be fine
    goodluck with it mate it will not always seem fun but keep at it in the sour times

    all the best DC

  12. no names just what pattern then are and weight I have the weight burned or stamped on all of them
    ohh and the geenies / cold ones are hammers with green paint on the handles they are for cold stuff
    and no one should use a non green hammer on something cold or a beating is coming.

  13. if its a anvil you want to have movable/drag-able then i would recommend say a metal tripod have used a few at others workshops and like em will be making one for my 2nd. anvil
    if you can dig it down into the ground then a wooden one, log sawed square or made from 4x4s or similar i find a round one tents to make it hard to get in close to the anvil, but make sure if you use wood that its on end grain and you don't have anything sandwiched that will take up force when working

×
×
  • Create New...