Dave51B

1 hour ago, MayerMR said:

How do you keep the exposed sections of the parts from rusting when you've flipped it and it's working the other side?

  With large parts I like to pressure wash, blow dry and spritz or brush on phosphoric acid.

2 hours ago, MayerMR said:

What do you like to use as your sacrificial electrodes?

 Just about anything that will attract a magnet that will fit in the tank and conduct electricity. Sheet metal works good for large surface area, but will turn to Swiss cheese pretty quick.   

 That is a good process to clean stuff. If you have any questions let me know. The surface area of your sacrificial electrodes has a lot to do with how often they will need cleaned.  Enjoy....            Life is Good              Dave 

6 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

balding, bearded, glasses, stout, wearing lederhosen and an aloha shirt Friday---weather permitting

 Thomas...we better get an IFI group photo this year, don't ya think?       Dave

 Pappy, good to see you still have the screen in the hood scoop. I had more than one experience with driving threw a swarm of bees and no screen....sure got interesting for a bit, lol. Mine was a 50. Loved those cab corner windows, but the enclosed driveshaft led to his demise, dang-it. Speaking of trees...does yer truck have 3 on the tree or 4 on the floor?            sorry for the highjack        Dave

6 hours ago, Jonnytait said:

but I do also have a propane forge tucked away under the work bench which I could set up if I ever face that problem, which i dont think will be very often. Long work pieces can be passed through it, so that should solve the issue I hope!

AND THERE YA GO......a perceived issue is now a non issue...enjoy yer new shop.              Dave

johnytait, very nice.....only thing that looks questionable to me is, your forge. Sitting in a corner like that, how long of a bar can you heat in the middle?  May not be an issue at all for the work you do. Over all I envy you.                 Dave 

 Thanks Mc......I had another one about the horn. But it had a vowel on the end and I didn't want to get a warning form the admin.

I'm stumped ..........

looks like you nailed it.....

 Congrats Das, you all make a beautiful family. Don't worry, in a few months you will once again get a full nights sleep.......     

 If the water is hot, why do you have to heat it?

was it a left-handed thread?       

17 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

If you want to make a lot of the same item you can cut out a thin sheetmetal template to compare to and file it away or mount it on the wall of the shop for "next time"

  Or, when you make one you like. Just lay it on the sheet metal and spray it with high temp paint. Instant pattern, and you can write any pertinent info with a marker or paint stick.            

 Thanks, Charles and Vaughn. That sounds good to me. I think I'll just box the base of the anvil in with some 1x1s and squirt in the silicone and chain it back down. Maybe later put plastic down on the floor and silicone the bottom of my stump to take out the wobble in that while I'm at it.              Life is Good                              Dave

 Nice build Bruno. I do have one question for the experienced. How hard will it be in the future to separate the anvil from the base? Say to change height for another smith or  change to a metal stand . Will that silicone release ok? I've thought of doing this to quiet my A&H, but the way I change my mind on things nowadays.....It has me wondering        Thanks              Dave. 

14 minutes ago, Karn3 said:

How do I go about cleaning stuff like this?

  When I do small stuff, like 3/8" snowflakes for example, I run them through my sandblast cabinet. For larger pieces that won't fit, a pot sandblaster works well for me.                  Life is Good                           Dave  

1 hour ago, MotoMike said:

Does it take on a dark color?

 Mike, for me it works about like the linseed oil. you can just coat it hot and wipe off, or you can go with a burnt in, black finish by reheating after spraying. Some times I will spray and heat a couple of times to get that seasoned cast iron look. I like it both ways. Oh and the cheep spay works just as well for me as does the name brand.

2 hours ago, JHCC said:

Just keep that aerosolized oil away from open flames!

 Thanks JHCC, sometimes I forget to mention the obvious.                    Dave 

 I carry a spray can of "Pam" (spray cooking oil) in my kit to "season" my cooking utensils I make. It is easy, no mess, and seems to last well.                      Dave

  Here she is.....                  Dave

On ‎3‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 7:17 AM, lyuv said:

This is a chicken koop abandoned for 40 years. So the "soil" is mainly chicken droppings, and smells like it

 Any danger of hystoplasmosis?                         dave

3 minutes ago, Reeltree said:

trying to get the milling to return to the US

 Will the EPA allow that to happen?

Very good L/B.....sounds as though a good time was had by all. Nice to hear your hard work has paid off. Also thank you for the update. I am not able to view the video, but your pics show enough to get the gist.             Life is Good                 Dave

 Did I miss the update somewhere? Just wanted to hear how the auction and Demo went........             Life is Good                Dave

 Maybe even 2 years ago........Steve, stop by on yer way south and pic me up, if you have room.             Dave

On ‎2‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 11:00 AM, swedefiddle said:

Good Morning Dave,

Now if only there was a chart to tell what size and length stock to start with..... 

Make one the size you want with Play-Doh, scrunch it up to the size of your material. somewhere around 7-8" for average Tongs.

Neil

 awww......geeze.....All I was looking for was a free easy way out....Now I have to buy play doh......Extrapolate something....Pitter patter on something.....I don't know....I think somebody knows where the chart is, but they just want to see me work for it.......ha              Dave