Dave51B

 Looks like way to much air......work on air control and the sparks will take care of themselves . Just my thoughts.       Dave

3 hours ago, ausfire said:

And Canberra is in ACT, Dave.

 aus..Thanks for the info. Can I blame it on jetlag?   I was lost most of the time anyway...lol       Dave

I'm all ears.......

22 minutes ago, graynomad said:

Yeah we live in one of the best places eh?

 I have got to get back over there ! I have a brother-in-law that lives in Canberra (sp?). Just outside the ACT. We visited several years ago. I had a blast, great people, great country, But some of that grog we drank had to be chewed before it could be swallowed.....lol  I think some of the stubbies were Carlton and Tooies red, blue or something like that.....I don't know...    Life is Good         Dave

39 minutes ago, graynomad said:

the leg vice will go on that black stump which is embedded in the ground

  Graynomad nice set up....Only thing I see that might be a problem for the work " I " do, is how close your vice will be to the back wall. If you clamp a scrolling jig in the vice, how long of stock will you be able to swing around? May not be an issue for "your" work though. Not knowing how deep that black stump is buried, but maybe think about moving to where the swage block is located....Just a thought. Enjoy your new workspace.......      Life is Good                     Dave

 Kinda gives a new meaning to sign language........                         Dave 

 I could look it up, but not that important. That style plow with trip-back bottoms, came out in the late 60s early 70s if I remember correctly.                    Dave

On ‎6‎/‎18‎/‎2017 at 10:15 AM, Alan Evans said:

The wax just acts as a carrier to hold the graphite onto the punch or drift so the ratio is largely immaterial...basically as much graphite as you can get in

 I mixed up a batch....Just melted the beeswax and keep stirring in the seed lube graphite till it made a thick paste. Probably 1 part wax and 4 or 5 parts graphite. I tried it out drifting a tomahawk eye. It seemed to work a lot better than the coal dust I had been using.           Thanks guys             Life is Good                        Dave  

 I'd give you a thumbs up on the sign, but there maybe something wrong and can't really put my finger on it right now......But in all honesty I think you nailed it......it's ok, I know I'm kind of a knuckle head.........         Life is Good            Dave

 Jared, Got yer PM and responded.....If I hit the right key.....lol   If not, let me know           Dave

 Hey fellow Hoosier....yer right, there a several smiths in the area. Sounds like you should fit in here well. Have you checked out the IBA facebook page? How far are you willing to drive for meetings? What type of fuel you plan on using in yer stack of firebrick? I'll be around if ya need something.....                   Life is Good                Dave 

4 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

For variations on that there: "Practical Blacksmithing", Richardson, has several varieties of plowshare tongs shown in it as I recall.

 Thanks Thomas....good to see you are back. I may have to ILL that book.          Life is Good              Dave

  Well I finally found a "roundtuit"....and got these fabbed  up. I am kinda stoked and think they will work pretty good. What got me back on it was, a gentleman that ask if anyone could sharpen a plow share at  a demo meeting we RSMA members were doing, at the Johnson Co. In. tractor show. He was referred to me for some reason......I told him I had worked on a few and was still learning. But I would be at the Rushville, In. show in August working some with the Ideal Plow Sharpener in the shop there. He told me he would be at that show and look me up...So the pressure is back on....

 I just want to say thanks again to Frank Turley for posting those pics........     Life is Good             Dave

 Kinda my thoughts Das...                      Dave

 Picked this up a bit ago.....No ring but about 65 -70% rebound. No idea what make it is. I will clean it up when time allows. Details to follow.              Life is Good                             Dave 

 Thanks guys. I have some graphite seed lube powder and plenty of bees wax. I'll give it a go....about 50/50 or so...   Life is Good         Dave

15 minutes ago, JHCC said:

Powdered graphite (like the kind that John Deere sells as a seed lubricant) makes a very good lube for pinching and drifting when mixed with melted beeswax.

 Is there some kind of ratio I could use to mix up a batch?            Thanks               Dave

 Would you guys please get back to the mane topic......

12 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

sorry I didn't explain it very well/ correctly..  comfort was my first priority when building the trailer, then view..  

You are correct the trailer going up and down to control height but only to a limited extent,,,,   Here's the reason why:  

Side wall height of the trailer was based on kids looking into the trailer. With a anvil height of 31" +/- 2"    Since everything worked on or forged (scale/flux) moves away in a descending circle the wall will catch roughly 95% of scale, and welding flux and hopefully deflect any cut off metal with the anvil about 31"..

So, while I am In the trailer I am shooting for an anvil height of 31"               This 31" should be right on with the trailer off the tongue  and leveled using the jacks on level ground.. 

Problem is it needs to be adjusted for what ever the terrain is under the trailer since it could be a dirt field, or mud  or uneven dirt, or tar to get to that 31" number and since the stand was based on this 31" number ideally the stand needs more adjustable added in and was the reason for the corner ears on the first stand to slip wooden blocks under the anvil if needed more height.. 

For some reason I'm having a hard time explaining it to my standards..  But...   In this order      anvil height, side wall height, and terrain are the keys..   It's not just anvil height that plays into it as you are moving a platform that is 8'X10' over a given terrain or hill and then creating a level work platform..  The anvil stand might need a block under it.. Or the anvil itself might need a block under it..  

I'm sorry but for some reason I can't explain it as it's more complex than just one thing..  so the simple answer is for what I like "  ideally 31" from top of anvil to the floor is ideal.. 

 It's ok....You did fine, it's just this ole brain of mine is a bit slow soaking up what it is being told. For a bit there, I thought you were some kind of supersmith that anvil height was a minor detail. I am still very impressed with your shop and you skills. Thank you very much for your time explaining.......           Life is Good             Dave

4 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

You are correct as to leveling the trailer..    Only problem is: It also changes the viewing area for the people looking.. So while i can change height that way it also raises the side walls..  Basically I accounted for about 4" of adjustment with the anvil/stand..

 Thanks for the reply. So I think you are saying for you.....viewer height is more important than anvil height? I wish I was good enough to be able to accommodate that. Maybe I didn't envision it properly when you stated you have 4" of adjustment in anvil height. I just know when I work on an anvil that is to low...the ole back lets me know in a hurry. Not trying to beat a dead horse here, just admiring you versatility.     Thanks again             Life is Good            Dave  

 This may be a moot question...but, I am wondering if you find your anvil height changes between set-ups? When I saw the footprint of the base from setting it just got me thinkin'...I would guess you can adjust with the leveling jacks on each corner if needed. Also how critical do you think the same anvil height is? I really like your trailer(shop)....I want one.    Thanks           Dave 

 Well shucks, I can't think of any puns............               Dave

2 hours ago, jlpservicesinc said:

Picked me up a new swage block for the trailer at the last NEB meet.. 170.00 weighs about 70lbs..  Took about 2 hrs to get all the bowl making areas polished up.. 

 Looks good.....care to share what you used to polish it up?   Thanks ......     Life is Good                Dave

 As a tombstone user, it was suggested to me a few years back to try 7014 welding rods. I tried some and had good success. I just repair farm stuff and build a few things. Works for me..... Any input from you welding guys?              Dave

 These, I cut with a regular hand hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade. Lately I have been cutting with a modified portaband using a 24 tooth blade. As you can see, I don't make the final cut on the bottom (top) leg. Just use the extra material to make the loop to hang.                  Life is Good               Dave

17 hours ago, littleblacksmith said:

I have one. First, what do you cut it with? it seems like it would have to be a very thin blade, 'cause after you cut it seems like you wouldn't have anymore steel left.

                                                                                                             Littleblacksmith