billyO

Hello all.  I recently forged a couple of bowls out of titanium, and am having a bit of difficulty electro-anodizing them for the colors.  I practiced on some scraps that didn't see the heat of the forge and was successful, but am not having luck on the forged pieces.  I used my angle grinder to wire-brush all the scale off the pieces, but there must still be some oxidation or something else preventing the colors from showing.  I then used an an grinding disc on the flat bottom and this worked, but there is no way I'll be able to get into all the nooks of the bowl with it.  I'm hoping someone has a liquid I can soak the pieces in to remove whatever is preventing the anodizing (I'm thinking about how I soak a damascus billet in vinegar overnight to remove the forge scale before cutting/re-stacking/and welding again).

Thanks.

Hmmmm.....I hadn't thought of that, Irondragon.  I just may take that idea.....Thanks

Hello all.  I've got an older Onan generator/welder similar to this:  that's on a cart with 4" dia metal wheels.  Great for concrete floors, but I no longer have that shop, and will most likely end up with a shop with dirt floors. 
I'm thinking about getting a Harbor Freight 1000 lb lawn cart with pneumatic wheels.

I'm wondering if it'll be too: (a) top heavy, and if so, would it be too difficult to widen the wheelbase or (b) too heavy in general and if so would it be too difficult to reinforce the structure?
Any thoughts/suggestions? 
Thanks

Looks good Rashelle! 

How's the summer?  Hope all the instructors are working out this year.  (I'm hoping to move to Newberg soon....fingers crossed)

You planning on being at Swaptoberfest?

54 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

 using it as a "teaching opportunity".

Fair enough. 

Fair enough, after the explanation.  

This shows, what I see is a major problem with what I see as our over-litigious society, and that is finding the balance between having to assume that someone is an idiot so you don't get sued, and giving them credit for having a brain.  

Personally, I would much rather have people not treat me like an idiot, and realize that failure is a part of life, and my only fault would be not to learn from the failure.

On 7/29/2019 at 3:32 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Assuming both materials are high C?

I'd be willing to bet that someone with Owen's experience doesn't need to be asked that question.

Very nice, love your variations...consider these pics saved for future reference.  (you haven't copyrighted the pattern, have you?)

I will agree with Owen on kitchen knife use.  All I use in the kitchen are my own damascus and san mai blades.  With care and occasional maintenance (coffee bath works for me) the pattern stays bold. 

16 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

What gives you the idea that you can harden brass with heat treatment?  

What did Neddy write that gave you the idea that he was going to harden this with heat treatment? If you read his post carefully, he explicitly says :

16 hours ago, Neddy said:

I wasn’t going to attempt heat treating

I read his original post to say something like: I think brass looks cool and want to practice shaping grinding before attempting this on a good piece of steel.

Neddy: I say go for it.  Many smiths and blade makers will suggest practicing forging and grinding on mild steel to prevent wasting a 'good' piece of steel. Post pics as I'd like to see what you come up with.

27 minutes ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

I had to go to settings and run it at 240p but no big deal

Glad you enjoyed it.

At the Board meeting this past weekend, there was talk to see if it can be uploaded on Youtube as well.   If it does, I'll post that link as well.

Hello all.  I hope the summer (winter for those of you south of the equator) is treating y'all well.

I just thought I'd share a new video that the NWBA made for their 40th Anniversary this year.  Enjoy

8 hours ago, Mercier said:

I’m located in Southern Louisiana

I wish you luck and my thoughts/prayers are with you these next few days.

$300 for a 124# anvil in that condition????

You did WAY better than OK, my friend.  If you don't think so, I'll give you $500 for it and you can have a $200 profit.  

Update on the cold work:  Spent a couple hours yesterday trying to sink/raise the 0.050 sheet, and started to get some movement after moving up to my 3# hammer...time to move to hot work (and while I'm at it, the 30 ton press)

Гарний візерунок. (beautiful pattern)

Дякую, що поділились! (thanks for sharing)

Який розмір молота це? (what size hammer is that?)

On 7/3/2019 at 6:36 PM, DHarris said:

 

I was going to suggest a micrometer, but then I thought of Andrew Wygers book and the skill it takes to use a file to get perfectly parallel sides...and not sure if the 4 decimal places of the micrometer is accurate enough.....

But I bet you're right regarding the OU engineering student!

Mr Harris, were you able to get an ID?

Looks good for a 4th, Rojo.  

On 7/2/2019 at 9:07 AM, Rojo Pedro said:

Could use some more polishing but...

Then why did you stop? 

I always wonder when I read this.....

I'm curious about the wooden plugs that look like are in the handle.  Good job fitting them.

You've been doing some pretty interesting things with 3d printing these past couple of years, Theo. 

Out of curiosity, have you done any serious destruction testing to see how well these interlocking and epoxied guards hold up?  Let's not forget, our knives will probably outlive all of us and we can't dictate how they are used in the future.  Which is partly why I focus my efforts on kitchen knives.

30 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

What part of "possibly from vanadium exposure"  mentions Aluminium? 

Nothing. 

But the prior mention of Aluminium's possible contribution to Alzheimer's makes it relevant and I was thinking that your comment:

On 6/2/2019 at 6:00 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Well if you are not paying attention to my suggestion of NOT using duplex alloys then I'm out of here!

was referring to that.

39 minutes ago, billyO said:

If it's the difficulty working, I guess I'll find out the difference in the CP and 6al4v

I also have some 0.050" grade 2 CP plate available as well to use

I was told by another smith I know and trust (possibly incorrectly, I realize) who forges mainly titanium and he said: "if it is pure titanium or a low ally titanium like 6al4v, it should be fine to cold work. It could be easier if the titanium is heated up with a blowtorch or heat source. I think pure titanium would be the easiest/best."

Thomas, are you saying that the Al content would be dangerous, that it would difficult to work or,

21 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

I was think of the reports of Flu like symptoms after hand forging duplex Ti alloys; possibly from vanadium exposure!

If it's the possible dangers of using Al for eating utensils, then I also have some 0.050" grade 2 CP plate.  

If it's the difficulty working, I guess I'll find out the diffrerence in the CP and 6al4v

If it the reports of flu-like s/s, this is the first time I'm hearing of this.

Got some 0.071" titanium plate on the way, I'll post results....

On 5/30/2019 at 6:43 AM, arftist said:

There is a pretty solid theory that aluminium deposits are common in the brains of Alzheimer's patients. 

Good point!  Thanks for pointing that out.

On 5/30/2019 at 8:25 AM, ThomasPowers said:

Yes you can cold work titanium, (depending on what state your sheet comes in.); but hot working it is MUCH easier.  Use the CP 1 or CP 2 grades and avoid the duplex alloys!  You can also get wild colours by anodizing and pretty neat ones by temper colouring it.

What thickness would you recommend?  I can pretty easily get some 6al4v in .026", .050" and .071".   Also, what temp would you recommend working it?  

Thanks

Thanks all.  I apologize, I guess a little more info would be helpful....

Our organization (the NWBA) has some members who have decided to provide the food for our annual conferences (pig roast, gumbo, breakfast, etc...) and I decided that I don't want to use the provided paper plates or plastic forks, so I want to make one bowl, plate, fork and spoon.  I already have a damascus butter knife. 

I also heard rumor that there may be a competition at our October conference for the best set to encourage others to bring their own.

Regarding the desire to polish after each use, it's not necessarily something I want to do, but is something I'm willing to do because these are most likely going to be used only 2 weekends a year.  If the initial fabrication isn't too much more labor intensive.  In other words, if using copper makes the initial dishing significantly easier, then I'm willing to tin and then polish. 

But if all I need to do is form the plate using sheet aluminum, then maybe that's what I'll do. 

20 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

 (Or Titanium, but that's pricey...)

Can you cold work titanium?  

Hello all.  I hope the last couple of years have been better for you all.

I'm wanting to dish out a bowl and plate to eat off of and am wondering if you'd share your opinions on pros/cons of my material choices. 

I'm thinking about going the traditional copper and then tinning the eating surface, but think that aluminum may be easier due to no need for tinning.  Any other thoughts?

Thanks, and have a great week.