triw

WOW Thank you for the ideas, I will let him know and see what works. I am amased and proud of you guys and gals that contributed and idea or two. Like the Bible says there is wisdon in the councle of many... Again Thanks William
Chrisfrick the streaching of the sock happens after the socks are washed and dried.

I am looking for a 4" ball bearing to help someone who wears a prosthec leg. He wears special wool socks and when they are washed the "toe" seems to shrink more than the top. He has tried using a round cylinder to streach out the toe but I was thinking a ball shape would work better.
Does anyone know where to purchase a ball bearing that big? Or any other ideas?
Thanks William

Very nice work especially the polishing you did good work

LOL yes I am nuts to especially when it is 110 out side and you are forging. nice work I especially like the tacks and other details.

wow totolly awsome I liked your video and how you show the steps I am impressed thank you. GREAT JOB

I don't begin to understand all you are going through, but can commisserate a little I lost my right leg a few years ago and although I use a prosthetic it is difficult doing some things. Thanks for being an inspiration to us all.

I do what rmcpb talked about.. get the tang the size you want it (I do mine with a slight taper). Then puunch a rectangular hole in your bolster material (a little smaller than the tang), heat the bolster to bright orange and drive it onto the tang. I learned this taking a class from Master Bladesmith Ray Rybar. I have some heavy pipe with a small hole to drive the bolster on with. I also do the same with brass bolsters with out heating the brass. Nice tight fit

I like your design and have been toying with the idea of making one but have hesitated because I am not sure how do it. Maybe you could do a blueprint of this project.

Hammerkid I would like to see a picture of the mule head, also the picture nick posted mad me think of a big horn sheep. Just twist the claws before curling them and that would make a nice cane head.

I came across a site that has Patina Formulas for Brass, Bronze and Copper.
Here is the link I hope this is helpful.


Do It Yourself Patina Formulas

There is 32 different formulas. Have fun

Mertwest let us know where you are from maybe there is a club of blacksmiths nearby.

Welcome aboard Blair sounds like a great fathers day gift. Send me one of your old rounding hammers mine grew "legs" and "walked" away. lol

Very nice work, what kind of wood is the handle material on the knife in the second picture? Great detail in the blade and the wood your are better at photography than I am.

Prayers are on their way

I agree with Demetrius if done right the file remnants look nice. I have even seen some where you can read the brand name of the file.
Just a though

I converted a log splitter, it was a hand built so I don't really know how big it is, probably a 10 or so maybe 20? in any case Its got plenty of squish power, and speed doesn't seem to be an issue. I just put a jack hammer bit in there and upset is about 1/2" in one heat with no problem. If you have a big system I am sure you would use it and be glad it is big. But for those without the big stuff, any log splitter will make quite a powerful tool. IT them becomes setting up the dies. You will really like it.

Cyo One thing I have learned is "Think at the forge work at the anvil!" In other words while you metal is heating plan out your next step, having your tools ready so you are not looking for them while your steel cools, etc. (you mentioned you lost some heats trying to figure out how to place your spike) Some of us use clay to work out what to do next so you know where to hit to move the metal where we want.

All that said I will finish you did a great job and keep up the good work. William

Here are two santoku stlye chef knives I made the first one is stock removal stainless with elk antler handle. Blade is epoxyed in before casting. I cast the pewter bolster and butt plate in place.
The second one is made from a bearing race from the wheel of a P3 my daughter works on. The forging of this blade was a labor of love cause that metal is tough working She is in the navy stationed in Maine, the bearing race came from one of the planes she works on (a used one that normally would be trashed, I got a friend of hers to send me a bunch). The handle material is Arizona mesquite burl.

Nice work I like the pattern the chain saw gave the wings

Charlotte if you are not planning on using it I would leave it alone and use it as a "conversation piece". I have seen a few cast iron pots that have been "repaired" and they lost their beauty and were not functional and one had a bigger crack about 1/2" from the one welded. If you want a cosmetic repair I agree with quenchcrack and use JB weld with enought soot to make it black then fill in the hole.
Just my 2 cents worth
William (PS Yes I do know about castiron pots I won state championship dutch oven cook off twice)

I have not heard of one either but can picture in my mind what he is referring to.

Having been a comerical bullet caster I agree with Frosty that most likely it was moisture. The water most likely was in a seam of the cup or somewhere. If you are going to melt aluminum or lead and have had a lot of moisture preheat your container to dry it out. MOST INPORTANT IS SAFTY GLASSES AND PROTECTION

But the defining question remains Will he sell it? If he does Barnam was right there is a sucker born every minute......
William

I wear one a friend gave me that is made of mule skin bib type. When some of the steel mills closed back east they were just thrown out.

Whats your mailing address for get well cards?